Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Breaking in that new Motor, Oil Wise.....

Screaming Metal

Active Member
Well, I'd read a interesting article recently, somewhere about all the diff. breakin oils. I still do it kinda ole school, but with new lubes....
This is mostly for the folks that don't know, all this can be varied somewhat....
I DO however, assemble my motors with a super slippery assembly goop that desolves when the motor is fired....this keeps from the dry start woes.....
Enjoy.....

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Item/106244/breakinin_is_hard_to_do.aspx?MostRead=1
 
Engine Builder Magazine, I learn something every copy I read.
An oil company rep told me recently that the ZDDP's and anti scuff additives only work when the oil temp is over 65degC. So for that first fire up when the flat tappets are not "plated" with the anti scuffs, borrow an engine heater from the circle track boys and heat her up first, he reckons. I suppose you could also heat the oil up with a contact heat pad on the pan.
Honing seems to be the critical element in ring sealing. Bill Jenkins had that worked out way back when. That first couple of minutes during which the "controlled" wear of the rings and the bore as they mate up takes place appears to be the difference between success and disaster. Just what is the best way to optimise this is the subject of many theories and opinions, all of them interesting, most of them with their own merits.
The local diesel shop heats 'em up first and then immediately puts them at rated load and rpm on the dyno for ten minutes, idles them for 20 minutes, flushes the lube oil while hot, does a metal check and puts 'em in the truck ready for work. Sort of, start like you mean to carry on.
 
Ya know this break in stuff is just weird! When I rebuilt my Harley Engine, we punched it up from 88cu.in. to 96cu.in.installed a hotter cam with flat tappets, adjusted everything, started up and just drove the heck out of it! No break in time at all, and she ran like a bat outta hell right up to the day I crashed her in Arkansas.
So, some folks say run it the way your going to drive it, and others do the 20 min deal. So, who knows?
I ran my bucket for the 20, so I sure hope it's good to go.
 
For the everyday motor, theres no need for special oils. Yes, you CAN just crank her up, drive her some, then change it. Its been done for almost a 100 years like that. BUT, If your spending 6 grand in a motor for your restored Hemi Cuda, and you want perfection, yes, go the breakin oil route.

After a motor is built and assembled, the only way to get your rings to seal is to have your rings seat into their prospective bores. This can only be done by shedding metal, either off the rings, off the bores or both. Same with the cam lobes and/or lifters.
Rollers aren't as sensitive, but they need lube....

So, its best to let things seat themselves after fireup, change your oil and filter, do a 200 to 500 mile breakin, change your oil and filter agian, then your ready for the long life ensured by not having all those super fine granules of metal floating around in there.

The tighter the clearences are in your motor, the more damage the fine grit in your oil system will cause. The motor bearings are made so that the grit can inbed in the top layers....

Always run a good, low Micron oil filter....to catch all the big stuff.
 
OK, I have a little time now....so we'll talk oil. Theres a conceptoin that alot of these super low viscosity oils can be run on the street without much problems. Its a yes and no answer. Everybody sees the oils we now run on the track as a trick for street preformance, picking up horsepower here and there....
Well, those motors on race day thay are running 0W15, 5W15, etc, those motors are designed for such things, we cut down on lube in certain places, while running high pressures so we can run looser clearances here and tighter there, to take advantage of the thinner oils.
Because of the higher oil flow, bearings can run cooler, and with the thin stuff, it takes less horses to drive that oilpump.
All this is fine for a Nascar motor that only sees 250 to 5oo miles, all afternoon and this is sold off for scrap afterwards, or for the weekend runs at the strip after your 1/4 mile missile has seen 15 really hard runs....
The Pro's have what it takes to run these low viscosity fluids, the means, the raw resources, and the money from the sponsors to be on the cutting edge. For street cars that are getting hotter and hotter, smaller motors with less than Ideal design concepts, they're able to cut some costs, running lighter lubes to pick up horses, and therefore, a shorter motor lifespan.
A light breakin oil is wanted and needed for sealing on your pistons and rings after startup. You want to seat those as fast as possible. You used to be able to do those by running your motor hotter, thereby thinning out your oil....since on that new motor you had assembly grease on your cam lobes and lifters....
By the time we figured out that benefit of running things hotter (we owe alot to you Smokey Y.), less parasitic loss due to thin oil, oil sheds off the rotating assemblies faster, less drag at the pump, and, less internal friction.
These oils have alot of modifiers and additives in them. They shed heat faster, stay slicker, longer. But, they do break down. As clearences in your motor opens up, your pressure drops faster with those thin oils.
Me, myself, I set up the motors to run in quick, that means lower viscosity, after breakin, a flush is then done, at 200 miles, another is done, then at 1000 miles.
I prefer to have a motor you pamper alittle at the start of its life, then drive it for 250,000 miles if able to. In a T or your Hotrod, most of us plan on changing things every few years. Not because we need to, but because we want to.

All this is just a little food for thought when setting up your next motor. I'm oldschool. Somethings I gotta do 'NewSchool', thats because the racing dictates that. Hotrods that lived for years on the street pushing 32's around, or T's. All these folks did it with simpler oils, with less technology, with heavier cars, and these guys/cars were the epitome of rodding back in the 50's/60's/70's.

Just so you'll look at this work of art. Ed 'Isky' Iskenderian, has a T that he built back in the mid 30's, that he still has. Its Totally OldSchool, its awesome, and I bet it saw some pretty trick stuff back in its time. Look at your lastest EngineBuilder Mags and read the article about him.
Most of use haven't owned houses that long or have stayed married for that long either. He's a great guy, and was put in the Hall of Fame not long ago. A killer T, for all those years. AWESOME! I like seeing these guys that taught me racing get their due, and before its time for them to drive their rods over that last sunset....
 

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top