Chassis flex/windshield and top connection

[Hackerbilt]

My T has 2 opening doors. Wheelbase is 110".
I get door creaking and some chattering on rough roads (most of our roads!) as the 2x3x 3/16th wall tube frame goes thru its normal flexing.

I've been planning on building a flip open 'glass top for my car, BUT with the chassis flex I'm wondering how much stress will be on the windshield/top connection.
I'm concerned that I have a problem if I securely fasten the non-flexible top to the windshield frame!!!
Wouldn't be too happy if I started to rip the windshield posts clear of the cowl!
Despite my concerns I see guys running windshield support rods and you would think they would add similar stress on bumpy roads.
Doesn't seem like they are ever a problem in that way though.

Guys with doors and tops...having issues or concerns?
Can the top be made to float at the windshield connection and allow for some flex and movement?
Still has to seal, so there can't be a gap!

I'm almost to the point where I will say shag it and pull the bucket body and build a chopped pickup cab. I NEED some weather protection to extend my driving season beyond 3 somewhat comfortable months!

 

[2old2fast]

IIRC Ted Brown suggested that one end of the support rod be mounted in rubber ala. bayonet mount shock bushings ....

 

[RESINATOR]

We rubber mount the frame side of the brace rods

 

[Hackerbilt]

So rubber mounting is the way to go there...and therefore there is a reason to be concerned with hard mounting a top.
I'm thinking I will hinge the flip top off the rollbar...so maybe I can use rubber bushing inserts as part of the top hinge assembly.
Have the hinge pins pass thru them. That would help...but I'd still need to have a windshield top attachment with some built in flexibility.

Very nice work there Resinator!