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Coolant mix

JetMech727

Active Member
It's time to fill my block & radiator and was wondering what most are running for a coolant mix? Is water wetter worth adding? Is pouring the mix into the block through the water neck opening in the intake the best way to reduce air bubles in the block? I'm using the speedway radiator which does not have a suction side and uses a 15 psi pop off only. Not sure of the best way to burp the system. My engine is a mild 320 horse.
 
Jacking the car up so the fluid goes to the low spots allowing the air to escape helps, but I thing it’s a application specific sort of thing.
 
That makes sense. Thanks for the input.

The radiator I'm using :
1917-1923 T-Bucket Aluminum Radiator

Considering adding a remote filler neck with pressure cap and overflow tank but don't really want to if I can get away with it. On the other hand function sometimes outweighs aesthetics. Does anyone have experience with this radiator ?
 
Coolant mix? I use two bottles of water wetter and the rest distilled water. We don't have to worry about freezing here.
 
what most are running for a coolant mix?

I think as a general rule, using a 50/50 mix of coolant and water should work. That's what I am using. Water wetter seems to be a viable addition, and can always be added later.

(PS - You don't need to rub it in, 409T!:cool:)
 
If the engine has not been run / new cooling system , filling with water until you know it's leak free is a good practice , easier to clean up water C and cheaper too !.....
 
When I started my first T-bucket for the first time I had it full of 50/50 mix and a hose broke or clamp came off or something like that (CRS). Anyway, I flooded the floor with sticky antifreeze and water. Wish I had thought to do as suggested.
 
READ the label of your anti-freeze, Prestone's max protection lists 70% anti to 30% water. They should have a protection range on the back for different ratios of mixes, match it to your local temperature. From MY EXPERIENCE, Prestone feels slipperier than lower cost anti-freezes, does it help keep the water pump lubed? I never had a problem with my water pumps. I don't want to endorse any particular brand but this brand is what I've been using, I would shy away from cheap(er) anti-freezes.
 
When I started my first T-bucket for the first time I had it full of 50/50 mix and a hose broke or clamp came off or something like that (CRS). Anyway, I flooded the floor with sticky antifreeze and water. Wish I had thought to do as suggested.

LOL. Sometimes we overlook simple things. This is my first car to build in 12 years so just learning current trends has been a bit of a curve. Like the water wetter. Don't recall having that back when I did my last one. But then again, my mind isn't as sharp as it once was. :(
 
READ the label of your anti-freeze, Prestone's max protection lists 70% anti to 30% water. They should have a protection range on the back for different ratios of mixes, match it to your local temperature. From MY EXPERIENCE, Prestone feels slipperier than lower cost anti-freezes, does it help keep the water pump lubed? I never had a problem with my water pumps. I don't want to endorse any particular brand but this brand is what I've been using, I would shy away from cheap(er) anti-freezes.

Got ya. I actually keep a gallon of that around for our daily drivers. Thanks for the input.
 
I have done some research on this a couple years ago ,, and there is a forum thread here somewhere on this.
If you built an older block like my 327 and used silicone in spots for gasket/or gasket sealant you need a certain type of antifreeze.
The new antifreeze, most of witch are rated for 100,000 (long life) mile change is designed for newer engines with rubber gaskets that have recessed machined clearances for the rubber gasket.
Do some googling research on antifreeze eating silicone and you should find what I am talking about.
You need the older stuff rated for 20,000 if you have an older type block.
 
Ok. Thanks! If I am not mistaken Preston yellow bottle is good for all makes & models. Early & late. But to clarify, my engine is based on a 86 - 2000 4 bolt block w/pre vortec 87 - 95 swirl polished heads. Only rubber gasket is the 1pc pan. It is a Blueprint budget 350 / 320 hp crate engine part #91532355.
 
Well still I suggest the research on OATS, or HOATS compared to the older stuff, Conventional.
The OATS stuff will not only eat silicone it doesn't get along well with differences in metals, like say if you had a cast block and aluminum heads, or aluminum water pump, copper head gaskets, that kind of thing.
Just a suggestion, research and choose.
 
BTW, you have to read the bottle, colour doesn't matter anymore like it use to.
The manufacturers all make different stuff in different colours.
You use to be able to tell by the colour but not any more.
 
I bought a truck from Arizona that had been in storage for several years and they aparently didn’t put any coolant or antifreeze in it because the fluid was so nasty, rusty... It had been changed because it had a new radiator, hoses, water pump, and I checked the specific gravity... it was good to -35 but it looked like tomato juice from the iron oxide in it. I’ve flushed it several times till it runs clear, but it turned red again... point is, even if you are in a warm climate, you need corrosion protection. Also, the antifreeze turns acidic after time and can damage gaskets, castings, etc. that’s why it’s recommended to change it every few years... I’m not one that follows that rule very well. I do test it periodically. When I worked at a radiator shop in high school, I learned that grounding your engine well and isolating the radiator from ground is important because electrolysis can deteriorate the radiator as the electric can flow through the coolant to ground via the radiator. The thing is, some manufactures don’t isolate the radiators, but ground the motor in several places. I agree that everything has become too complicated now days with application specific fluids, etc...
 

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