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Electric wire to choke

iajjpop

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On my ''t'',It has a 305 gm bored out 30, R V cam,old holley carb with a manual choke,350 turbo, 3.73 possy rear end. Also has a gm tilt column. In the spring I'am planning on A new carb.with a electric choke. The problem is, I don't have any wire that is A accessory wire.In my fuse box, everything is hot all the time[ I didn't wire the car ] I need a wire that is hot when I start it for a electric choke. Any ideas??? I don't know much about wiring...Thank you....
 
I suggest that you get power from the run contact on your ignition switch. The choke needs to be powered only while the car is running and not when the engine is shut off.

Jim
 
I don't know this, but does an electric choke turn itself off when the engine gets to operating temp?
 
I don't know this, but does an electric choke turn itself off when the engine gets to operating temp?

No, the choke heater has to stay on. The bimetal spring in the choke actuator has to stay hot while the engine is running to keep the choke open.

Mike
 
Is there wire comming out of the steering column for a run contact from your switch and if so what color would it be ??? I have a G M column, like maybe a '86 chev-vy tilt wheel. with ignition switch in column.thank you................
 
Is there wire comming out of the steering column for a run contact from your switch and if so what color would it be ??? I have a G M column, like maybe a '86 chev-vy tilt wheel. with ignition switch in column.thank you................
If I'm not mistaken, it should be an orange wire. You can easily check it to see if it remains "hot" with the switch in the "on " position ONLY.

Jim
 
Is there wire comming out of the steering column for a run contact from your switch and if so what color would it be ??? I have a G M column, like maybe a '86 chev-vy tilt wheel. with ignition switch in column.thank you................
Here is the column diagram but the ignition switch is mounted on top.
Wiring_101_16.jpg


You should be able to find the connection on the switch with a test light check for a connection by turning on the ignition and terminal has power. I would wire it directly to the switch.JMO
 
Here is a more complete drawing. The orange wire is the top wire listed on the bottom section.
GMSteeringColumn005.jpg


Jim
 
Thanks Jim that is the picture I wanted , saves me standing on my head testing wires,getting lazy in my old age.This is a great forum.
 
On my ''t'',It has a 305 gm bored out 30, R V cam,old holley carb with a manual choke,350 turbo, 3.73 possy rear end. Also has a gm tilt column. In the spring I'am planning on A new carb.with a electric choke. The problem is, I don't have any wire that is A accessory wire.In my fuse box, everything is hot all the time[ I didn't wire the car ] I need a wire that is hot when I start it for a electric choke. Any ideas??? I don't know much about wiring...Thank you....
why do you even need a choke? mine is zip tied open and i drive mine all year round. but it 9degrees and 2 inches of ice so i am going to pass today
 
Run it to the S (stator)terminal on your alternator. Ford did this for 40 years, the voltage is only present when the car is running . The voltage may be 10 volts but thats more than enough to run the bimetal strip in the choke. A fuse link is a real clean look and necessary in about 5 amps will work fine.
 
All of this still confuses me... yes Paris, I'm easily confused.

I recall the old days when the choke had a bimetal spring the closed the choke after depressing the gas pedal just a tad.

Crossover exhaust heat through the intake maifold would heat and relax the choke spring to open the choke plate..

The position of the choke housing outer cover established the temperature at which would deploy to the closed position.

So......... if an electric chokes use a bimetal spring to open (or close) the choke plate, why is it electric?

Do intake manifolds no longer have crossover passages to de-activate the choke?

Oh wait! I may have figured it out. It's cheaper the heat the spring electrically than to make manifolds with heat passages.

Or???
 
ORF

The decline of the manifold heated choke seemed to happen about the time that exhaust emsssion limits were tightened. I guessing that the electric choke heater was deemed more reliable than the older setup. Probably cheaper and easier to install too. Just an educated guess on my part, though.

I know one engine swap that I did on a computer controlled carbureted truck, that the choke circuit was powered by the computer. Took me awhile to figure out why the choke circuit wasn't getting power. Of course, with no computer it wouldn't! We had changed over to a non-computer engine. I didn't think the choke would be computer controlled, but it was.

Mike
 

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