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Enclosed Trailers

benT

Active Member
Any of you guys using smaller enclosed trailers to haul your T's? We've decided on buying a ramp door trailer for mainly business purposes, but want to get one large enough to fit one of our T's if we want to haul them. My T is only about 12ft long--Dad's is a bit shorter. We are looking at 16 and 18ft tandem axle trailers with brakes. No real need for much extra space as we're not racing or anything. We would be pulling it with either a 1/2 ton chevy van with trailer package or my 1/2 ton F150 with trailer package. We're leaning toward the 16' as most of the time half of it would be empty and we're not hauling with a dually. Any thoughts? Any manufacturers you recommend or we should stay away from? Thanks in advance!
 
Any of you guys using smaller enclosed trailers to haul your T's? We've decided on buying a ramp door trailer for mainly business purposes, but want to get one large enough to fit one of our T's if we want to haul them. My T is only about 12ft long--Dad's is a bit shorter. We are looking at 16 and 18ft tandem axle trailers with brakes. No real need for much extra space as we're not racing or anything. We would be pulling it with either a 1/2 ton chevy van with trailer package or my 1/2 ton F150 with trailer package. We're leaning toward the 16' as most of the time half of it would be empty and we're not hauling with a dually. Any thoughts? Any manufacturers you recommend or we should stay away from? Thanks in advance!

I have a 18' enclosed trailer with a ramp door. We use it to haul the T and some of our products to shows. The 18' seems just about right. It is tandem axle with brakes on all 4s. We tow with a 06 Chevy Tahoe and it has the 5.3 engine. It lacks a little bit in the power department, but does get the job done. Be sure to get a trailer with drop axles and a dove tail. It will make loading a low setting T a lot easier. We have to put drive on ramps out and pull the Tahoe up on them to get the trailer to drop in the rear.
 
There is a ton of info on the web on trailer towing considerations. I would recommend you read as much of that as you can if you don't have much experience with heavier trailer rigs (i.e. something bigger than your typical week-end U-Haul deal). Here are some stream-of-consciousness thoughts I have on trailers and Ts...

> you want a minimum Class III towing package on your vehicles. That's only 5,000 pounds. Trailer and T are going to be real close to that!!
> 16 ft. is plenty for a T if you aren't hauling a lot of other junk. (That's 16 ft. box length, not overall!!)
> maximum overall width for a car hauler is 102 inches (8'6"), interior width will be around 90".
> you want a trailer with a "dove-tail," which is the little transition ramp that comes down from the trailer floor to the tail gate. Otherwise you may have oil pan clearance issues when loading and unloading. Typical "landscaping" or "utility" trailers won't have this.
> you want a "beaver-tail" on the tail gate. This is the transition from the tail gate ramp to the ground. Ease of getting the T onto the tail gate is the issue here.
> make sure the rear opening is wide enough for your rear tires. You want a couple of inches of clearance on each side if possible.
> 82" is about the maximum clearance you're going to find between the wheel wells inside the trailer. If your T rear tires are wider than 82" you may not be able to get the T far enough forward to get a good weight distribution. This may require adding some ballast to the front of the trailer. In my case, I carry enough tools, spare parts and supplies to get good tongue weight.
> in my opinion, a side door is a must. Virtually all car haulers have them.
> a nice option is an on-board battery and interior lights. Very handy when you need to be in the trailer after dark. Make sure the trailer is wired to recharge the battery from the tow vehicle (RV plug).
> with your light tow vehicles, you're definitely going to want an anti-sway bar. Probably don't need an equalization hitch because you won't have that much tongue weight.
> another good option is a break-away box. I think these are pretty much standard on trailers with electric brakes.

I'm sure others will have some additional observations and suggestions.

Happy towing!! :rofl:
 
Ben T I use a 14 ft enclosed with ramp door for my concession business but use it to hall T also only thing is I am running the big Mickey on back and have another set of smaller tires to put it in trailer. The trailer is a Shadow master with dual axle and electric brakes I have a little room for movement if need be for weight distribution hope this helps.
 
Thanks for all the input. I think we're going to start out with a basic setup and customize the tie-downs, lights, etc. Definitely getting a side door. We'll have to look into the drop axle and the ramp situation. I had a hell of a time getting my '27 on an open U-haul trailer to and from the upholsterer. Can't seem to find many used trailers in this area in this size--probably go the new route.
 
Thanks for all the input. I think we're going to start out with a basic setup and customize the tie-downs, lights, etc. Definitely getting a side door. We'll have to look into the drop axle and the ramp situation. I had a hell of a time getting my '27 on an open U-haul trailer to and from the upholsterer. Can't seem to find many used trailers in this area in this size--probably go the new route.
I bought a 24 ft Halmark about 6 years ago to haul my T. I did use it to go to the nats in Mt. home I was able to take my buddy's T also. The reason I went with the 24 is for resale all the racers in this area want no less than 24 and that is who buy's used trailers I pull with a 1500 chevy with 5.3 no problem Dwight
 
Something I just thought of. They make these trailers with a pointed nose on them. They run about another $200 for that option. It will more than pay for it self in fuel savings I think. Our Tahoe gets about 22 MPG not towing and 9 MPG towing. So that pointed nose should help that MPG some.
 
Something I just thought of. They make these trailers with a pointed nose on them. They run about another $200 for that option. It will more than pay for it self in fuel savings I think. Our Tahoe gets about 22 MPG not towing and 9 MPG towing. So that pointed nose should help that MPG some.

hey Guys
Why do you want a trailer when you have a T. Mines built to drive not to trailer.
Gerry
 
hey Guys
Why do you want a trailer when you have a T. Mines built to drive not to trailer.
Gerry


I don't "want" to trailer. But its sure handy when during construction and when needing to go the the upholsterery shop and such. Mine has only been trailered when not running and should stay that way unless it needs to be moved in the dead of winter. I usually spend $100 bucks of so every time that occurs for an open trailer. We figured since we needed a 12' trailer anyway, might as well get one a bit larger that can serve double duty. Oh yeah...mine is definately built to drive!



DSCF1103.jpg
 
One thing iv'e found with a low windshield is when it rains it washes the bugs from your teeth.hehehe
 
hey Guys
Why do you want a trailer when you have a T. Mines built to drive not to trailer.
Gerry
My wife can't take the heat. needs air conditioning for her health. Mama don't go nobody goes. Dwight
 
hey Guys
Why do you want a trailer when you have a T. Mines built to drive not to trailer.
Gerry

We go to other cities, spend a few nights in hotels or motels and drive around during the day. It's nice to have an enclosed trailer to lock up the car(s) at bed time. This ensures that they will still have carburetors in the morning.

Jeff
 
We go to other cities, spend a few nights in hotels or motels and drive around during the day. It's nice to have an enclosed trailer to lock up the car(s) at bed time. This ensures that they will still have carburetors in the morning.

Jeff

Lighten up guys. I could tell from the moment I joined the forum that trailer queens were not a part of the scene.
In fact I am trailering mine to the workshop this very morning for a 3 day blitz. Pic to follow.
Gerry
 
Before you buy anything, talk to Litton Trailers, directly across from Raceway Park in Clermont. You'll never meet a nicer guy than Bruce Litton and I promise he will not steer you wrong. I can't say enough good about Bruce, he's just a great guy. Tell him Mike at K-Motion sent you.

Another good possibility is Detro Trailers. They're 35 miles west of Indy on US-36.
 
Before you buy anything, talk to Litton Trailers, directly across from Raceway Park in Clermont. You'll never meet a nicer guy than Bruce Litton and I promise he will not steer you wrong. I can't say enough good about Bruce, he's just a great guy. Tell him Mike at K-Motion sent you.

Another good possibility is Detro Trailers. They're 35 miles west of Indy on US-36.


Will do... We go by Bruce's place all the time on the way to Brownsburg.-- I went to high school in Avon and spent a lot of time at IRP. I see alot of Detro trailers around here so, we'll definately check them out too.
 
I have an open traier. Been looking at Toyhaulers. Haul the bucket and have a space to spend the night and camp. I like this one and others. Also been considering a diesel 82 seat school bus and make a back door and get a liftgate for the bucket. When you have more than 2 people and your bucket gets 3-5 mpg then you trailer to out of town shows.


http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/travelt/2007-Work-N-Play-By-Forest-River-17123.htm

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/5thwheel/toy-haulers.htm

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0579016351&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT




If I had the money this is what I'd have

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0561619427&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT
 

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