There are left-turn circle track pans and there are road race pans.
A left turn pan will usually end up with a pocket on the right side and there will generally be lips/baffles at the top of the pocket to prevent oil from climbing up the right-side pan wall. The left side of the pan will generally not be baffled the same way. Since centrifugal force will generally be keeping oil on the right side of the pan, the baffling is purpose-designed to take advantage of that.
Another thing to keep in mind is most left turn pans will have the pickup located more to the right side, where it will always remain covered with oil, even in the corners. If the baffling in your pan also has trap doors, they will be oriented to admit oil into the pocket and not the other way.
So if you do hit a right turn at speed, oil is being forced to the left side of the pan. Suddenly, the left turn baffling is no longer working and oil is not where the pickup is located. In other words, not good. And oil is now flooding the left cylinder walls and if you're using a gennywine ACME ring set, the oil ring is being overworked. People so often want to run 'magic' parts on the street and then use a $40 ring set. Save your money on the voodoo parts and spend it in areas where you need it.
A road race pan will often be designed with a swivel pickup, so the pickup can float with centrifugal force. And baffling will be more focused on keeping oil in the sump during acceleration/braking, as well as turns. Then again, most road race applications are dry sump, so it is a bit of a moot point.
I've no idea of what you're working with for clearance, but most of the pan manufacturers have pans with wide sumps that are 8.250" deep. If that is still too deep, a good option is a P/N 31503 (L.H. Dipstick) or a P/N 31502 (R/H Dipstick) Milodon pan. It is 7.500" deep and has a removable, louvered windage tray. The pan will hold five quarts, plus the filter, so you're still keeping some extra capacity.
I am not a fan of running any 'magic' oil pumps on a street-driven small Chevy. A standard oil pump performs quite well, thank you very much. And with a stock pump, you don't have the worries of pumping the pan dry at highway speeds as you would with a high volume pump. Sometimes people lose track of why parts are designed the way they are. Back in the Dark Ages, oil systems were rudimentary and running a race motor at high RPM meant you needed to keep a lot of oil moving. So we had high volume oil pumps. But high volume oil pumps could pump a pan dry, so we had high volume oil pans. But we learned how to shut off the oil moving to the top of the motor, so we started running very small volumes of oil. Then when we realized we were killing valve springs by running them with so little oil we started back to big pans and big pumps. Jenkins would plug all the returns in a cylinder head and glue on a valve cover. A couple quarts of oil went in the pan and then the rocker boxes were filled with oil. That worked, but pity the poor guy that had to check the valves and springs the next time. I remember Lingenfelter was packing valve springs and rocker arms in grease, because he had all the upper oil shut off. Stuff was a mess to work on. Suddenly, we had oil sprinkler bars in the valve covers and everyone was OK again. I used to have trouble keeping oil restrictors in stock and now I bet I haven't sold a set in over a year.
Double pump Holleys are the same way. Ever wonder why some carbs have two accelerator pumps and some have only one? On a race car, you need to get the motor up in an RPM range where it is happy and you need to do it as quickly as possible. Which requires a lot of air flow, right? So we'll manually pull the secondary throttle blades open to get more air. Ooops, now the motor stumbles. No problem, add a secondary accelerator pump circuit to cover up the stumble. You thought having two accelerator pumps was a big performance tip, but the fact remains it is nothing more than a crutch. Anyone old enough to remember the old gear-driven secondary shaft kits that were sold for vacuum secondary carbs? People bought them like candy and then couldn't sort why their motors would stumble off idle. :hoist:
If you have a 5.13 rear end gear, run a lot of oil. If you don't, keep it simple. Run a pan with a windage tray and a standard oil pump. Spend the money for the 'magic' oiling system on something you do need.
