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Experts on Eldbrock carbs

Hey,

Any experts on eldbrock carbs? Got my engine back in the frame. Can't seem to get it to fire. Any ideas? It has a electric choke and it is the 1406 series.

Thanks
 
3 things to check first.......fire, fuel, and compression. I am guessing the engine ran before you put it in? Really need more information, unless your sure it is a carb problem.
 
Hey,

Any experts on eldbrock carbs? Got my engine back in the frame. Can't seem to get it to fire. Any ideas? It has a electric choke and it is the 1406 series.

Thanks

If it doesn't fire at all . . . .

Did you have the distributor out and/or plug wires off . .

Always start with the basics, . . . power gets where it needs to go (coil /distro), . . . distro rotor points to #1 with #1 at TDC on Compression stroke, wires from the cap to the plugs in the right order . . etc


Having the distro out by 180* or a missed connection isn't hard to do
 
That's good advice from Island Girl! If you have gas and spark with timing set reasonably correct, it should do something. What is it? Chevy, Ford, Mopar? Pull out #1 plug and crank it, with the key off, around to TDC on the compression stroke. You should feel the air pressure forcing your finger off the plug hole. Watch the timing mark on the damper. Key off is important. You don't want to start a fire! Pull off the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing. That's #1. Then make sure the firing order is correct. You may need to pull off a valve cover to see if the valves are operating. The distributor could be off by 180 degrees or it could be a broken timing chain. If all that stuff (as listed above) is happening it should do something; start, run, backfire! Good luck.
There's more help here if you need it.
 
The engine is the 350 chevy my buddy at work rebuilt. I went to Habor Freight and got the trust worthy inline spark plug tester. Lone be hold, no spark. I check the wires...good. Took the cap off and notice the green wire on the module was off. Reconnected it, put the cap on and had spark.:D Now it fires. Next step is to get the carb readjusted. Any suggestions?
 
Describe what you mean by fires . . . .

Coughs and sputters, backfires, stays running but doesn't idle well, barely stays running . . .

Details here go a long way towards sleuthing out the mysteries.

Edelbrock carbs are usually pretty decent right out of the box . . . you almost Always have to put an inline pressure regulator with them as they tend to be unusually sensitive to even slightly high fuel pressure. Keep them fed at 4 to 5 lbs and work from there.

The Edelbrock site should have all the specs for your carb, along with t'shooting tips and things to watch for.


Kudos Spanky, that was one of the vids I was thinking of
 
It stays running, but it doesn't idle well.


I'd check timing with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged, about 12 degrees at near idle is a good starting range with no centrifugal advance.

Then be sure the vacuum advance line is either plugged or connected to ported vacuum and follow the video and see if the carb adjustments have the expected effects


Once you get it running decently in the low rpm range, be sure to recheck max timing at about 3500 rpm that it isn't excessive, sbc should be happy in the 34* to not more than 36* range.
 
The engine is the 350 chevy my buddy at work rebuilt. I went to Habor Freight and got the trust worthy inline spark plug tester. Lone be hold, no spark. I check the wires...good. Took the cap off and notice the green wire on the module was off. Reconnected it, put the cap on and had spark.:D Now it fires. Next step is to get the carb readjusted. Any suggestions?
If you have a vacuum gauge, attach it to the vacuum port, manifold, NOT timed vacuum, there are two ports on the front of the carb. If you don’t know which is which, manifold vacuum will have the most vacuum at idle and drop off as you accelerate... timed is the opposite, no vacuum, or very little at idle. Then you make slow, minor adjustments to the screws on the front until you get the highest vacuum reading. Start by turning in a quarter turn, see what it does, then the other direction, etc. If no gauge, you want to adjust it so it smooths out. The motor will lose rpm and run ruff if it’s too lean or rich, go slow, one side then the other, in, out, whatever makes it happy. I usually adjust till it just smooths out, then open the screw about an additional eighth or quarter turn providing it doesn’t negatively affect it. Repeat until smooth and happy. Keep the idle rpm in mind as you adjust and be sure it’s warmed up and the choke is open and not on the fast idle cam. I like to get them running as smooth as possible at the lowest rpm, depending on the cam profile, then bring the idle up to the desired setting. The timing is critical, so be sure it’s set... timing and carb adjustment should be checked together. If it has vacuum advance, block it to set timing, but reconnect to set the carb to set the idle speed. If you have never done it, perhaps a u tube video or the like would be helpful.
 
Well, guess what I got running this morning, my engine. I started with fresh gas, regap the plugs and set the carb to the carb specs. If I knew how downsize my video, I would post it. Thanks again everybody.
 

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