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Holley 390 anyone running one?

Keeper

Active Member
I am seriously considering swapping my Holley 600 vacuum secondary for a Holley 390. I know for a fact my engine setup does not need a 600. I thought about a 2 barrel, but did not want to get into intake adapters and all that other stuff.

My engine will never rev above 5500 as the cam and heads (882's) just will not support it and with premium gas up here pushing $6.25 a gallon, a 390 sounds real good.

So any one using one and if so how do you like it?
 
Family member needed a motor the first of the year for their 68 Mustang w/289....stock motor, the 390 is perfect. Runs great.
 
Screaming Metal
is correct the 390 carburetor works perfectly on a 289 and even a 390 as long as you're not trying to squeeze a bunch of horsepower through it .
At 5500 RPMs you shouldn't have any trouble with starvation . I have run several of them on my Ford's I actually preferred them over a 600 Holly.

bob
 
I have been looking for a while now, they pop up around here but they all say "Will need a rebuild" $350 hahaha some of the crap that comes up is pretty unreal.

Hopefully I will find one in decent shape for a good price, or someone willing to trade for a 600!
 
I'm a big fan if the Edelbrocks on the street. I just picked up a gently used 500cfm Edelbrock ( $150 ) for our current build with a mild 283. Easy to rebuild if necessary and kits are at every Autozone. Might want to think about it- the 500's are perfect for mild 302 SBC's.
 
Hey Keeper, Wondering if you had any luck locating a 390?
 
I did, I found a matched pair on the HAMB for less then what I can get 1 up here for. I can keep the manual choke one, then sell the other for what I paid for both...lol...or I can keep them both and start looking for a dual quad intake :D

I should have them and the rebuild kits up here this week. I will post the results once I get them.
 
Just got back from the first voyage with the 390. Holy crap does this engine like this carb. No hesitation, smooth idle and when you stomp on it, she just goes.

The carb is a 8007 390 Holley with 51 primaries and the stock metering plate (I did not get the # on rebuild). Orange cam set on #2. All stock settings for this carb. I am sure there is more in it with some tuning, but first impression is being very happy I switched.

Engine is a 355 sbc, XE262 cam, about 9.3:1 compression with crappy 882 heads.

Once I get some mileage #'s I will post them as well, if I can keep my foot out of it...hahaha
 
Great news. If you are good at all points, do not be like me and change something, just because you cannot leave it alone. Sounds like fun!!
 
But surely you will be wanting a Dominator, square-jetted with alcohol jets, so it looks better. Meh, who wants throttle response out the ying-yang, when you can look bad to the bone? :laugh:

Amazing what can happen when you stop reading wish-books with stars in your eyes and just concentrate on making things work as they should, isn't it? Guid on ye!
 
:) Yup. I would imagine a 390 or 450 would be damn near perfect for most of the 350's out there. This one just seemed to wake up my engine. I always thought that the 600 Holley was the standard for a 350. Some times it just takes a bit more playing to find what you really need.

Now if I were to replace these heads with some that actually flow, I might have to move back to a 600, but for now, this engine is right where I want it to be.

Maybe the next one will need a bigger carb!
 
Yes, how the heads flow have everything to do with it. I think over-carburetion the biggest mistake many make when building an engine...
 
The 390 is more in line where the motor spends 98% of its time, below 3800 rpm. Its all about port velocity, small primary size to motor rpm flow. How often do you actually think the back 2 barrels come into play when cruisin'?
I've seen 4 bbl. carbs with the 2 back barrels are completely screwed from non-use....
The 600 is basically the tried and true one to go to....because usually folks add power builder parts, and it can be modified to accomplish this if the tuner knows whats going on.
In all actuality, not much carb is needed for cruisin' down the road. Cops these days will impound your car if you drive it like the hotrod that it is....
 
Yes, how the heads flow have everything to do with it. I think over-carburetion the biggest mistake many make when building an engine...
Everyone wants big camshafts, big port runners, big valves, big intake plenums and big carbs. If it is bigger, then is surely has to be better, right?

But to be honest, unless the cylinder heads are just wrong, they really don't have much to do with carburetor selection. Every engine has a fixed bore diameter, a fixed stroke length and a fixed number of cylinders, to feed the engine at its maximum RPM level. Those are the parameters that come into play, here. We cannot escape the fact that an engine is nothing but a hot air pump. If you can modify the heads to improve volumetric efficiency, then you can start looking a larger carb flow rates, but swept volume of each cylinder in an air pump is still the number that means the most.

In Keeper's situation, the smaller throttle blades are not uncovering as much of the intake plenum, when he hits the pedal, so the intake tract is capable of maintaining air flow, due to higher vacuum signals. And those higher vacuum signals at the base of the carb are what makes it work more efficiently. Merely bolting on a cylinder head with higher flow rates will not make as big a change as you might expect. Because the swept volume of the cylinders didn't change. A 4.00" diameter piston that moves 3.48" from TDC to BDC, at 4,000 RPM is always going to move the same amount of air, no matter how hard you try to change it (without using blowers to compress the air, of course). If an engine is only capable of moving 500 CFM of air at a given RPM, we can put three 1050 CFM carbs on the engine, but it is still only going to be capable of moving 500 CFM of air at that given RPM. Power is made by moving that air in and out of the cylinder more efficiently and adjusting fuel delivery and ignition timing to produce the maximum amount of heat in that air.
 
Everyone wants big camshafts, big port runners, big valves, big intake plenums and big carbs. If it is bigger, then is surely has to be better, right?

But to be honest, unless the cylinder heads are just wrong, they really don't have much to do with carburetor selection. Every engine has a fixed bore diameter, a fixed stroke length and a fixed number of cylinders, to feed the engine at its maximum RPM level. Those are the parameters that come into play, here. We cannot escape the fact that an engine is nothing but a hot air pump. If you can modify the heads to improve volumetric efficiency, then you can start looking a larger carb flow rates, but swept volume of each cylinder in an air pump is still the number that means the most.

In Keeper's situation, the smaller throttle blades are not uncovering as much of the intake plenum, when he hits the pedal, so the intake tract is capable of maintaining air flow, due to higher vacuum signals. And those higher vacuum signals at the base of the carb are what makes it work more efficiently. Merely bolting on a cylinder head with higher flow rates will not make as big a change as you might expect. Because the swept volume of the cylinders didn't change. A 4.00" diameter piston that moves 3.48" from TDC to BDC, at 4,000 RPM is always going to move the same amount of air, no matter how hard you try to change it (without using blowers to compress the air, of course). If an engine is only capable of moving 500 CFM of air at a given RPM, we can put three 1050 CFM carbs on the engine, but it is still only going to be capable of moving 500 CFM of air at that given RPM. Power is made by moving that air in and out of the cylinder more efficiently and adjusting fuel delivery and ignition timing to produce the maximum amount of heat in that air.

I'm just upset you didn't advise him to drill holes in the blades! :roflmao:
 
haha no drilling here. This setup will idle in drive at 500 rpm if I wanted it to.

Only issue I have to sort out so far is a hesitation that occurs from cruising to power. If running at around 1500rpm and you stomp on it, it hesitates then goes.

If you hit it from a dead stop, it just goes.

I did not notice the hesitation at first, because I was not just cruising around...lol
 
Adjust accelerator pump? Power valve? I've had both cause the same symptom. In the case of the power valve, I went up in number and it solved it. Though I can't remember if it was ok from a dead stop or not. Just cruise to power...
 
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