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Horn Relay

oino

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Can someone tell me what prong goes where for this horn relay. Or should I use a different relay?
This one is from a 1975 Chevy car.

[attachment=4116:horn relay.jpg]
 
It will show a coil and a symbol for a switch which is a line with an arrow and a contact that the arrow goes to when the coil is energized.
 
Maybe its the way I have the horn wired.

I have the - going to the frame. Then the + going to under the dash for the to connect to the relay.

Should it go + to constant power, then - to the relay?


or maybe I just have the wrong relay. the directions for the horn show a 4 wire relay.
humm
 
Something more link this?

[attachment=4117:horn relay.jpg]



I was trying to put a + to the relay and burned it out.
 
Hope this helps. On a 3 wire relay you can treat the 12 volt positive for both the coil and source as one
 

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Hope this helps. On a 3 wire relay you can treat the 12 volt positive for both the coil and source as one

Wow, I just went from the fuse block to the button to horn and to ground. I didn't use a relay.
 
Thank you.
I got it now. Just changed the horn wiring around.

Pos.(+) going to constant power.

Neg(-) going to relay

Ground(-) going to relay

Horn Button(-) from column going to relay.

Now it goes awooga, awooga
lol.
 
Bruce, if you have a single OEM type horn, the horn button should handle that 60 watt load. That is 5 amps. Some ahhooga horns pull 120 watts which is 10 amps and would be a little more than most OEM steering buttons could handle, that is why the relay handles the amps and your horn switch only sees the load of the relay's electro-magnet, typically less than 1/4 amp. Oino, hope I was of some help. Just checking, but 3 terminal relays are generally used in vehicles designed for the horn to work without the ignition being on. So if I were using this type of relay I would supply the 12 VDC + from the fuse block on a suitable 20 to 30 amp leg. If you use the 12 VDC + from your ignition switch, then it will have to carry the full load which will cause it to crap out sooner than normal lifespan.
 
Bruce, if you have a single OEM type horn, the horn button should handle that 60 watt load. That is 5 amps. Some ahhooga horns pull 120 watts which is 10 amps and would be a little more than most OEM steering buttons could handle, that is why the relay handles the amps and your horn switch only sees the load of the relay's electro-magnet, typically less than 1/4 amp. Oino, hope I was of some help. Just checking, but 3 terminal relays are generally used in vehicles designed for the horn to work without the ignition being on. So if I were using this type of relay I would supply the 12 VDC + from the fuse block on a suitable 20 to 30 amp leg. If you use the 12 VDC + from your ignition switch, then it will have to carry the full load which will cause it to crap out sooner than normal lifespan.

Ah thanks, I just have a cheap generic horn from the parts house, just to satisfy the Texas Vehicle Inspectors.
 
Well with all of the new upgrades of which I understand none. LOL I can't click on a pic and enlarge it. ??
 
For the pos(+) I'm running it off a 10 amp fuse from the fuse box.

Have a new problem. When I use the horn on the column a couple of times it stoped working.
First time it happend, I found that the spring in side the springy thingy for the horn in the column was burnt and had no more springy to it.
So I replaced the spring and tryed the horn again. It burnt out.
 
I have this on the back of my relay.

[attachment=4132:relay.GIF]
 
Flaming river site says how to wire this one. FRHRN2

Anyone know what replay that is. year and model chevy?
 

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