So this is a 1950 331 caddy motor. If I'm out on the road and it goes out there's not going to be one at auto zone. But it's cool looking and I'm for sure not going with a billet fined anodized pump.
View attachment 10460View attachment 10460 View attachment 10462
I wonder if there's a way to gut the pump but keep it on the motor then run the pump from under the chassis?
Well, to each their own. The mechanicals will last a long time. BUT, heres one thing to consider.....trash and water. Mechanicals back in the old days would pump most anything....Honey, old motor oil, you name it....even rust outta the old jalopys fueltank and right in thr middle of that carbs float bowl.
Newer diaphrams in mech. pumps are lighter, materials thickness wise, so they are less durable. Because if you put that newer rebuilt pump from one on the performance caddy places, its gonna be like new, but its gonna feel outta place with the new fuels of today. And if you break down out there somewhere....AutoZone, Pepboys, and O'Reillys ain't gonna have a replacement in stock. If it were a Chevy or Ford, I'd say run it.
Yes, you can gut the pump, which is what I would do, and use just the inlet/outlet w/ the glass bowl. Mount a good electric back in the back, a good filter ahead of the pump, food thru the gutted mech. one into you carb(s). Once you take the pump apart, you'll see the moving parts that will need to be removed and blocked off, once thats done, seal her up and reinstall.
If your scared of messing things up, talk to one of the old caddy perf. specialists that you'll be frequenting during your build, they'll fix you up....
Yes, a good electric will push gas thru a mech. pump....but if you loose that diaphram....you COULD fill the crankcase full of fuel....
Its your car, we can give you the info to make a informed decision, but your gonna haveta be the one to decide....
Those Valve Covers would look good with the Caddy name blacked out....
