Anyone that is running an MSD Ready to run distributor (no box) on an SBC - Have you played around with the different springs and bushings to alter the rate and total amount of advance? If so, what have you found that works for you? I'm just starting to experiment- one change at a time.So far, I've moved the vacuum advance hose to full manifold vacuum (suggested by Putz), and changed out one heavy silver spring for a lighter blue spring. It seems to run a little better but still has a significant bog when I jump on it- I know this may be a fuel delivery problem as well (accelerator pump cam, squirter nozzle,etc.). Anyone want to jump into this can of worms?
MSD Ready to run
- Thread starter hotrodman
- Start date
FastEddie59
New Member
Hello hotrodman, I'll take a stab at it. If your running less than 10 to 1 compression and always use 93 octane put the lightest springs that came with the distributor in it. If you want more acceleration you want total advance by 2500 to 3000 rpm. If it has a bad bog when you hammer it from a dead stop I would be looking more at the carb as in pump shot, jets and maybe even fuel pressure. Because of size if you will send me a private message with what kind of set up you have I can give you a better educated guess. Good luck on getting it straightened out, Eddie 
Wild Mango
Member
Unless you running a wild cam I would keep the vacuum signal on ported vacuum.
Reason being that if she makes a decent amount of vacuum at idle, could well be over advanced. Then when you hop on it the vacuum signal goes and the spark retards by say 10 deg at a time when the engine really wants some advance.
Any time you tinker with the centrifugal advance its a good idea to set the total advance first, then check that with whatever spring combination you have it is full retard at idle (say 22deg back from the full advance setting)(without vacuum). Then you know you have the min and max mechanical advance parameters to work within.
A light car like a bucket, advance starts at 1100rpm and all in by 3000rpm is fine.
Couple of pings when you drop the hammer, never mind, long as its only a couple.
HAPPY TINKERING!!!!!
P.S. Vacuum gauge, indispensible tool IMHO
Reason being that if she makes a decent amount of vacuum at idle, could well be over advanced. Then when you hop on it the vacuum signal goes and the spark retards by say 10 deg at a time when the engine really wants some advance.
Any time you tinker with the centrifugal advance its a good idea to set the total advance first, then check that with whatever spring combination you have it is full retard at idle (say 22deg back from the full advance setting)(without vacuum). Then you know you have the min and max mechanical advance parameters to work within.
A light car like a bucket, advance starts at 1100rpm and all in by 3000rpm is fine.
Couple of pings when you drop the hammer, never mind, long as its only a couple.
HAPPY TINKERING!!!!!
P.S. Vacuum gauge, indispensible tool IMHO
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Wild Mango said:
Mango, you do man!!!!!!!! What he said!!!!!! Yea, you want it all coming in , at least by 3000....absolutely no later. Usually the first things I do is replace the springs and check it with the old counterweights......then if things aren't spiffy....I'll change the weights then. Accel makes a advance kit that had everything in it, weights, springs and the whole 9 yards.
Get ya a good timing light with the dail so you can check yourself.......they're nice.....I believe Rooster has got one now. Indespensible tool.............
Wild Mango
Member
Should have also said to check the TDC notch on the balancer. Every time.Get a piston stop. They move, or may not have been correct to start with. If you stretch the springs putting 'em on and off ("scrag") chuck 'em theyr'e shagged.
