I really like to stay with 93 octane.
You are going to be close and may get into detonation with engine 1 with a DCR of 8.28. If you don't
want to go back into the engine after you can try it out, then I would retard the cam 4° to be safe. Just
remember that 93 octane is NOT available everywhere, so if you plan on driving in other states, you
need to plan on 91 octane.
I had to guess at some of the numbers in the CR calculation, so those need to be confirmed or
changed to agree with reality. For example I used 7cc for the valve reliefs and an over bore of
.020", but I don't know what your actual engine specs will be.
Don't think the roller cam is in the budget, but maybe a solid lifter tappet.
Either way with a hydraulic or solid flat tappet you will be very concerned with the break-in or
the first 30 minutes of engine startup could very well determine if the cam survives. You just don't
have those concerns will a roller.
What rocker arms are you planning on using ???
It should cost very little more (Maybe $25) to get the bigger 7/16" rocker studs, a no brainer in my opinion.
Be sure to check all the valve train clearances, such as rocker slot to stud, coil bind, piston to valve, pushrod length,
rocker to spring retainer, retainer to valve stem seal .....
If you are interested I can run a computer simulation with Dynomation 6. It will involve some work on your end to
pull all the specs together.