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New cam/aluminum heads

cuure

Member
Like to hear from you guys what you think about my setup.

350 4 bolt stock bottom.
4:11 gears with 2500 stall converter.
old tunnel ram (TR1YX) with dual 390 holleys.
Right now I have 185 heads (low hp)

After "some" research I came up with this new setup.
Brodix IK180 heads with a crower cam 00224.
What do you guys think?? :thumbsup:
 
That would be a good street combination; fairly conservative cam grind (222/230 duration @ .050; 470/488 lift; 110 degree LSA), but should give you plenty of "oomph" off the line and a somewhat lumpy idle for your T. The heads will definitely breathe better with the larger valves (1.60/2.02), and if you have a choice, I'd opt for the 64cc combustion chamber to keep the compression up. What are specs on your current cam?
 
Exactly my thinking. Don't know the current cam specs. I think stock cam.
Yes I will go with the 64cc chamber. Do you think I should go with more lift?
Reason is that the the guy at crower told me this would be a good cam with a tunnel ram.
 
Do you think I should go with more lift?
Reason is that the the guy at crower told me this would be a good cam with a tunnel ram.

I agree with the Crower guy. The cam profile you have chosen should be great on the street, plenty of lift. Overcamming would just makes it harder to drive.
 
What kind of HP numbers are you looking to make ?
What kind of budget do you have ?
Is a roller lifter out of the question ? You won't have to worry about break-in of the camshaft with a roller.
What octane gasoline are you wanting to use ?

The numbers look conservative, but the lifter acceleration is fairly high and harder on the valve train. One
way to get an idea where a cam is relative to others is what's called the Hydraulic Intensity. In the case of
the Crower 00224 it would be 270° - 222° = 48° . Look at the spring pressures that the 00224 uses and
compare that to some other hydraulic flat tappet cams. Most street HF tappet cams use 90-110 lbs of seat
pressure, the 00224 uses 150 lbs.

You will need at least 93 octane with Engine #1 and still might have detonation problems. Even Engine #2
could use 93 octane to be safe, but probably be OK with 91 octane.

NOTE: The only difference in the two engines is how the cam is installed or when the intake valve closes.

upload_2020-7-22_13-4-30.png
.
 
Most street HF tappet cams use 90-110 lbs of seat
pressure, the 00224 uses 150 lbs..

Rick - According to the recommended component kit for this cam (lifters/ springs/ retainers), Crower shows only 90 lbs of spring seat pressure. Where did you come up with 150 lbs?
 
From the Crower cam card.

Crower00224.jpg
 
I don't find the 90 lbs you quote, but I do find the seat pressure of 116 lbs. Follow the green
highlights. No doubt I would want some clarification from Crower.

CrowerSpringsFor00224.jpg
 
Wow thanks for the response. I really like to stay with 93 octane. The rough idle or cold start does not bother me.
 
Unless he plans to exceed 6,000 RPM (on the street?) he doesn't need the dual springs (IMHO), and the 68301X1-16 (stock O.D.) should do nicely, with a seat pressure of 90 lbs.
 
Don't think the roller cam is in the budget, but maybe a solid lifter tappet.
 
I really like to stay with 93 octane.
You are going to be close and may get into detonation with engine 1 with a DCR of 8.28. If you don't
want to go back into the engine after you can try it out, then I would retard the cam 4° to be safe. Just
remember that 93 octane is NOT available everywhere, so if you plan on driving in other states, you
need to plan on 91 octane.

I had to guess at some of the numbers in the CR calculation, so those need to be confirmed or
changed to agree with reality. For example I used 7cc for the valve reliefs and an over bore of
.020", but I don't know what your actual engine specs will be.

Don't think the roller cam is in the budget, but maybe a solid lifter tappet.
Either way with a hydraulic or solid flat tappet you will be very concerned with the break-in or
the first 30 minutes of engine startup could very well determine if the cam survives. You just don't
have those concerns will a roller.

What rocker arms are you planning on using ???
It should cost very little more (Maybe $25) to get the bigger 7/16" rocker studs, a no brainer in my opinion.
Be sure to check all the valve train clearances, such as rocker slot to stud, coil bind, piston to valve, pushrod length,
rocker to spring retainer, retainer to valve stem seal .....

If you are interested I can run a computer simulation with Dynomation 6. It will involve some work on your end to
pull all the specs together.
 
Hey Indycars
Absolutely. I would definitely like to take advantage of your help. Problem is the motor is still together and I did not buy the heads yet. Let me know what you need and I will find all the data....
This forum rocks.... :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
If you want a little more lift, you can use 1.6 rockers. Either on both I & E or on just the I or the E. Diffidently go with the 7/16" studs. If you are buying new heads, some times they offer options for the springs, just tell them what cam you are running, lift etc... With aluminum heads, they say you can run a full point more compression because of the temperature conduction of aluminum, or stay with the same compression and use a lower grade gas.
 
Hey Indycars
Absolutely. I would definitely like to take advantage of your help. Problem is the motor is still together and I did not buy the heads yet. Let me know what you need and I will find all the data....
This forum rocks.... :thumbsup::thumbsup:
The heads are not a problem because I can get the flow numbers from the Brodix website or you can. The block should be checked for cracks by your machine shop, but do be careful who you use. They are not all created equal or honest. If it needs to be bored more than .030", then a sonic test of the cylinder wall thickness would be wise choice.

Some numbers you might not have a concrete number in the planning stages, but that's why doing this to figure out what's going to work. For example, if the piston is a flat top, then the valve reliefs will be between 5-7cc. If it's domed then it a bigger deal.

Dynomation 6 Input Variables

Bore & Stroke:
Displacement: cubic inches
Rod Length:
Heads Make/Model with flow numbers: Flow (CFM) at several lift points.
Combustion Chamber Size in CC’s:
Dome Volume: For a domed piston use a (-) negative number.
Valve Relief Volume: For a piston with valve reliefs or dish, use a (+) positive number.
Deck Clearance:
Head Gasket Bore: ( Not critical initially )
Head Gasket Thickness:
Valve Sizes Intake/Exhaust:
Intake Manifold Model Type: [Single or Dual Plane]
Model #:
Carburetor Size (CFM): ( If you don't know, then a 750 cfm is a good middle of the road choice )
SCR & DCR: Or the info to calculate SCR & DCR [ http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...comp-ratio-cranking-pressure-calculator.4458/ ]
Header Tube Diameter: Small (1-5/8"), Medium, Large , or , or)
Cam Card or I need all 8 valve timing events at seat-to-seat and at 0.050” & lobe lift and rocker ratio or valve lift. ( I already have this for the Crower 00224 )
Rocker Ratio Intake/Exhaust:
Cam Installed per Cam Card, or Retarded or Advanced:
Fuel Used: Gasoline, Methanol, Ethanol, E85 .....
.
 
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