Oil Filter Adaptor
- Thread starter Johnny
- Start date
I think the purpose of the bypass is two-fold, one, if the oil filter becomes blocked (due to not being changed for years) or collapses ( cheap filters) it will bypass the oil to the rest of the motor anyway, and two, too much pressure in the filter,eg: giving it death while the oil is still cold and thick.it will do the same again. Being that us good hot rodders don't do any of the above, just run the bypass.
I have the by pass completely plugged on my motor this makes all of the oil go through the filter. This way any of the non magnetic stuff gets filtered out before it gets to the bearings. I run quite a few magnets inside the engine to trap small pieces of junk. You have to be careful when starting a cold engine as it takes a few moments for the cold thick oil to build pressure.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Ron is correct! When you start your motor, don't sit there wringing the throttle, otherwise your putting alot of wear on your bearings and your piston skirts.....these are made out of extremely soft metals and are made to have startup lubrication. Once the motor fires and is running, let her idle for a few minutes to both put some heat in the motor, and 'cold' oil is NOT a excellent lubricant....
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Mike, can you say more about this? Hadn't heard this before.
Mike
Well-Known Member
Most people haven't and it's helped keep the valve spring people in business.
Soak anything in an oil bath and then let it sit for a week. It will shed oil. Multi-component valve springs are the same. And the components of a spring need warm oil flowing over them. There are some fine lines and some trade-offs in most multi-component springs. Disassemble a two or three part spring and notice how tightly those components fit together. Depending on design, a spring can actually derive some dynamic load from component friction. But it can also cause the components to get hot. Start a motor that has sat for 4-5 days and it will have shed most of the oil off its internal components. Rev the engine and you are building heat in some components, particularly valve springs. And depending on the oiling system and the lifter oiling design, it can take several (10-15) minutes to see oil flowing over all the springs in an engine.
A chrome silicon spring can take a wee bit of that abuse. H-11 springs were notorious for dry-scuff failures. Everyone thought they had the hot-lick in springs with titanium valve springs. Subject titanium springs to ordinary spring friction and they will bare their fangs. They were putting Teflon sleeves around the inner coils of titanium valve springs, to keep friction from tearing things up. Some fanatics run titanium valve locks in titanium retainers. You have no idea what PITA means until you've tried to get a spring off a head with that combination. And if you've never seen a titanium spring let go, it's not pretty. The don't break, they tend to explode into tiny particles that end being like sand at a beach, getting into everything. Maraging steel springs are almost as bad as the titanium springs were.
There is power in heat. An internal combustion engine is nothing more than a hot air pump, after all. And hot oil is thin oil, so there is power there, as well. When the race car came out of the trailer, a heating element in the pan would get plugged in and after a time, if it got quiet enough, you could actually hear the oil bubbling, like in a fryer. We would pull the belt off the oil pump (it was an external pump wet sump configuration), run the belt over the chuck of an air drill and then pump pressure in the system, bar the motor 90°, run the pressure up, bar the motor another 90° and keep repeating the process until the crank had been rolled over at least once. We would then fire the motor and let it sit there and chug until I could feel heat in the lines. Only then would we run the motor up in RPM, so I could check timing. We used an Oberg filter on the car, so the oil needed to be thin enough to flow through the filter well. While we sat in the staging lanes, I always kept the oil pan heater plugged into a tiny generator, to keep the oil hot. The generator was small enough that someone could carry it and walk alongside the car, as we moved through the lanes. And yes, the bugger burned my leg more than once.
Soak anything in an oil bath and then let it sit for a week. It will shed oil. Multi-component valve springs are the same. And the components of a spring need warm oil flowing over them. There are some fine lines and some trade-offs in most multi-component springs. Disassemble a two or three part spring and notice how tightly those components fit together. Depending on design, a spring can actually derive some dynamic load from component friction. But it can also cause the components to get hot. Start a motor that has sat for 4-5 days and it will have shed most of the oil off its internal components. Rev the engine and you are building heat in some components, particularly valve springs. And depending on the oiling system and the lifter oiling design, it can take several (10-15) minutes to see oil flowing over all the springs in an engine.
A chrome silicon spring can take a wee bit of that abuse. H-11 springs were notorious for dry-scuff failures. Everyone thought they had the hot-lick in springs with titanium valve springs. Subject titanium springs to ordinary spring friction and they will bare their fangs. They were putting Teflon sleeves around the inner coils of titanium valve springs, to keep friction from tearing things up. Some fanatics run titanium valve locks in titanium retainers. You have no idea what PITA means until you've tried to get a spring off a head with that combination. And if you've never seen a titanium spring let go, it's not pretty. The don't break, they tend to explode into tiny particles that end being like sand at a beach, getting into everything. Maraging steel springs are almost as bad as the titanium springs were.
There is power in heat. An internal combustion engine is nothing more than a hot air pump, after all. And hot oil is thin oil, so there is power there, as well. When the race car came out of the trailer, a heating element in the pan would get plugged in and after a time, if it got quiet enough, you could actually hear the oil bubbling, like in a fryer. We would pull the belt off the oil pump (it was an external pump wet sump configuration), run the belt over the chuck of an air drill and then pump pressure in the system, bar the motor 90°, run the pressure up, bar the motor another 90° and keep repeating the process until the crank had been rolled over at least once. We would then fire the motor and let it sit there and chug until I could feel heat in the lines. Only then would we run the motor up in RPM, so I could check timing. We used an Oberg filter on the car, so the oil needed to be thin enough to flow through the filter well. While we sat in the staging lanes, I always kept the oil pan heater plugged into a tiny generator, to keep the oil hot. The generator was small enough that someone could carry it and walk alongside the car, as we moved through the lanes. And yes, the bugger burned my leg more than once.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Mike, YOU DA MAN!!!!!!
Mike
Well-Known Member
Well, when you've been to Hard Knocks University and majored in Trial & Error, like I have... :blush:
One thing none of can escape is the fact that this stuff costs money and I hate to see people waste money. When I can help people save a dollar, I try to do it.
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