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Operating temperature

TexasT

Member
Hey guys, what temp. does your cars seem to run at normal? Im here in Texas and I seem to hold around 200 degrees with a 16 inch electric fan, does this seem right
 
Well, TT, depends on what you got. A smallblock Chevy, sitting at a redlight, idling , pulling agianst your brakes....sitting there thru several lights....talking to a friend....I'd say yes.

200 isn't all that bad. Itsa little warmer than what I like, but its not dangerous. Like today it was hotter than hell here...if I were riding around in mine and it hit 200, I'd be pleased. If your running a 180 degreee thermo, its about right. I'd put a 160 in it though, but it all depends on what your doing. Some motors are gonna run warmer than others.
 
Now, if your moving, going down the road, have airflow over your motor and air thru your radiator and your just cruisin.....I'd say itsa little too warm, cause that should make your motor run cooler.

What size motor, radiator are you running....give us a little more info and we can help you out better.......
 
My 600 Horse Blown 392 Hemi runs at 195 to 205 on a day like today, where its 103 outside. But I'm running a good amount of drive, too. When its cooler outside, it runs about 180, and I have a 160 thermo in it.
 
As usual thanks for all the great repluies guys. it was just a faulty sending unit, replace it and now sitting at idle is about 170 to 180.
 
As usual thanks for all the great repluies guys. it was just a faulty sending unit, replace it and now sitting at idle is about 170 to 180.

My Blown SBC runs @ 185-190 most of the time.

All of the new GM V8s run @ 210-220.
 
As usual thanks for all the great repluies guys. it was just a faulty sending unit, replace it and now sitting at idle is about 170 to 180.

That is where mine runs, on the highway. It gets a little warmer around town, about 200. But, that is with a 10" mechanical fan and no shroud.
 
Heat transfer, what a fun little science. I am sure we all agree that any given engine was designed around the operating temprature, from combustion chambers to bearing surfaces. An engine will perform its best at its design temp. The cooling system needs to be large enough to disapate all the heat less the design heat, hence the thermostat. All modern cars do this but we don't always in our T's. High output engines and high stall speed torque converters conspire to over tax our cooling systems. An engine is designed to have max efficency and life span at a narrow operating temp. A good example is the engines I used at work. A typical single engine would produce about 62,000 hp @ 118 rpms. Because of the mass of the engine parts, reaching temperature equalibrium was a drawn out process. Differant size metal parts would expand a differant rates, and would produce considerable wear if put under heavy loading, i.e. full throttle. Upon departing port, the engine computer would drag out the call from "full ahead" to "full ahead sea speed" for an hour, for just an increase in speed from 13 kts to 18 kts. I mentioned "about 62,000 hp" because with just a sea temp change of 10 degrees, the engine would produce 5,000 more hp. This was due to the water to water heat exchanger used for the intercooler. This large engine ran at 180 degrees and we used the waste heat to make our water. The cooling system was a closed system, using water to water heat exchangers and we just ran that thru the evap unit. Basically a reinforced metal container that was pulled into a vacuum so that 180 degree water would then boil and we would condense the steam and have potable water.
 
62,000 horses....dawm, your gettin me all excited now!!!! :) :winkn:
 
Screaming Metal,

I get more excited about the torque. That horsepower was at 118 rpms, so the torque was 2,759,525 lb/ft.
 
Screaming Metal,

I get more excited about the torque. That horsepower was at 118 rpms, so the torque was 2,759,525 lb/ft.

I've messed around with the old Cooper/Bessemer LSV's back in the day, got all exited about all those horse and torque #'s, only to realize they torn SSSOOOOOO SLOW! Ha!

Hey, they're awesome though! Now, we only gotta figure out what size structural I-Beams and how much 3 Inch plate we're gonna have to have to build a T-Bucket frame for that puppy!

We'll probably have to run dual mining truck tires on the rear, The 18 footers will probably look great! :) :winkn: :hyper:
 
Screaming Metal,

As the young people would say "Awesome". I have some specs for you to help with your design. This is from a new, currently used engine..

The Wartsila-Sulzer RTA96-C turbocharged two-stroke diesel engine is the most powerful and most efficient prime-mover in the world today. The Aioi Works of Japan's Diesel United, Ltd built the first engines and is where some of these pictures were taken.

It is available in 6 through 14 cylinder versions, all are inline engines. These engines were designed primarily for very large container ships. Ship owners like a single engine/single propeller design and the new generation of larger container ships needed a bigger engine to propel them.

The cylinder bore is just under 38" and the stroke is just over 98". Each cylinder displaces 111,143 cubic inches (1820 liters) and produces 7780 horsepower. Total displacement comes out to 1,556,002 cubic inches (25,480 liters) for the fourteen cylinder version.


Some facts on the 14 cylinder version:
Total engine weight: 2300 tons (The crankshaft alone weighs 300 tons.)
Length: 89 feet
Height: 44 feet
Maximum power: 108,920 hp at 102 rpm
Maximum torque: 5,608,312 lb/ft at 102rpm
 
Heat transfer, what a fun little science.
And why were still not seeing new engine designs that use heat transfer is beyond me. We use all this fossil fuel to build a fire in a hole to push a piston down a single time. Then we dump all that heat we generated into the tailpipe and into the radiator, to get rid of it. We spent good money to build that heat, why do we want to give it away for nothing?

Why? Can no one see the wasted energy potential?

:rolleyes:
 
And why were still not seeing new engine designs that use heat transfer is beyond me. We use all this fossil fuel to build a fire in a hole to push a piston down a single time. Then we dump all that heat we generated into the tailpipe and into the radiator, to get rid of it. We spent good money to build that heat, why do we want to give it away for nothing?

Why? Can no one see the wasted energy potential?

:rolleyes:
Dont we use wasted energy potential with a turbo charger Mike?
 
Ok they say windchill does not effect metal but then how does a radiator with wind cool it down. I understand the temperature differential but they still say cold wind will not cool metal colder than actual air temp.
 
Rick,

The turbo does pull heat from the hot, expanding exhaust gases. I had a diesel with pyrometer probes mounted pre turbo AND post turbo. The pre turbo is the only one you need to pay attention to, but to support your correct theory, at a boost of 30 psi there was more than 400 degrees differance.

Putz,

Your right, there has to be a temp differential for transfer to occur. Air is not as good of a median for transfer of heat than a liquid. Your engine transfers its heat via the water jacket via a liquid median to the radiator for the inefficeint means of water to air.
 
Rick,

The turbo does pull heat from the hot, expanding exhaust gases. I had a diesel with pyrometer probes mounted pre turbo AND post turbo. The pre turbo is the only one you need to pay attention to, but to support your correct theory, at a boost of 30 psi there was more than 400 degrees differance.

Putz,

Your right, there has to be a temp differential for transfer to occur. Air is not as good of a median for transfer of heat than a liquid. Your engine transfers its heat via the water jacket via a liquid median to the radiator for the inefficeint means of water to air.
Thanks for your reply i never new it was THAT much of a difference.
 
200 is only sorta hot. Don't forget a pressurized system takes higher temps to reach boiling point the higher the pressure is. With a 7lb radiator cap you do not reach the boiling point until around 215-220. I am sure there is a chart somewhere on the web that will show this.

I say anywhere from 195 to 205 is normal operating temp for a bucket. You don't want it too cool. Heat makes HP. When I drive mine at night it cruises between 185-195. The hottest day in the summer at 3pm it only runs at 205. Which is way below boiling.

If you watch the nascar on TV sometimes you will here Tony or somebody say I am at 230 or 235. I would think they run about 25lbs in their systems so 230 would be close to boiling for them. But they use tape to cover the grill opening to get more downforce. Just have to remove some tape or clean off the grill.
 

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