Paint help...

[python_one]

I am getting ready to blast my frame, front end, and rear end to prep for paint. It has been 30 years since I shot a car or cycle. I have my old Devilbis MBC-510 siphon gun and a couple of Binks touch up guns. All I have ever shot was acrylic laquers and enamels. I have never done a base coat/clear coat or a tri-coat paint job.
What I was wondering, is the steps required for these parts. I saw a video from Spirit Industries that showed the guy painting parts with epoxy primer, then sealer, then paint. Is epoxy primer the first step usually. Can you put a high build primer over that? Geez, too many questions.
Does anyone know of a link or links to videos or articles about finish work on metal parts and the fiberglass body?
Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer....
Thanks.... Larry

 

[butch27]

Ask Thomas: He just did his first paint and it turned out great.

 

[rooster57]

I went to the local auto paint supplier and spoke to them . I purchased a Dupont centuri acrylic enamel 2 part paint. I also purchased the super wet look # 8105 catalyst. They supplied me with 1 qt paint , reducer, cat,primer for this type paint for 95.00. I used my touch up gun and it went on sweeeeet. Stay away from the mid day heat for shooting if you are doing a temp paint booth. Shoot early and let the heat do the rest. JMO

 

[Francis Blake]

I wouldn't blast the parts unless they are rusty just use a good cleaner. Your local auto paint store is your best source of info because they will tell you how to use their system of paint, every company is a little different. Good luck with your painting.

 

[python_one]

Francis..
I really don't want to blast the parts, but went through a divorce a while back and had the stuff in a storage unit (not climate controlled). Everything I had in there that was steel had a coat of rust on it. I have about 30 lbs. of plastic media that I was going to try if I can figure out a way to cantain it while shooting outside my garage.
Thanks for your reply, and I'll let you know what I come up with and how it turns out.
Thanks much..... Larry

 

[python_one]

Man, I wish I did have acces to a paint booth. Sure would make life easier. Every hot rod show I've ever watched, they have those elaborate paint booths. I guess if you paint every day, it's a must. I'll probably just cover everything in my garage and shoot it there. I'll let you all know how it comes out.
Thanks much... Larry

 

[donsrods]

Yep, I'd love to have a booth too, but we shoot in the driveway. What we use is primarily Dupont stuff. I use their epoxy primer that mixes 1 to 1, it has some etching properties too, so it eliminates that step. If you wish you can put a high build primer over that for sanding purposes (you can't sand the epoxy primer), and then top coat with your favorite finish, either single component or base coat clear coat.

I've just started using Imron and LOVE it. A little more pricey, but it really shoots nice. Hardly any overspray and it is almost impossible to get a run with it.

Just a thought, if you are doing frame and chassis parts, you might want to look into having them powder coated. Sometimes the cost is almost the same and all you do is drop them off and pick them up when done. I just bought some paint and primer to do the motor and chassis parts on my current rpu, and a small box of stuff came to $ 388.00. I would have had them powder coated but I wanted the engine and drivetrain to match so that ruled out having it coated since the engine couldn't be done. (although some people have had them powder coated.) The nice part about powder coating is that they even sandblast the parts first for you.

But if you decide to paint stick with one brand for all the components, and let your local paint store be your advisor.

Don

 

[alteredpilot]

i use a product made by 5 star called xtreme 2k primer.

by varying the mixing ratio, you adjust the properties.
you can use it as a hi build, then as a sealer. i've been using it for a couple of years with great results. lays nice, sands nice, good dry times, all that stuff.

 

[georgedombeck]

Shooting in the driveway rules! I love the reaction I get from people driving by.

 

[dave kreis]

This is how i was taught

if you blast the frame have someone use the soda blast it leaves a fine residue so the rust takes alittle longer to start
then use dp40 epoxy primer from ppg but dont sand it leave the sanding to the sandable primer
then i use a base coat, clear coat paint preferably deltron( im useing ppg vibrint colors now)
then i use ppg 2000 concept clear excellent clear coat
this is the trick is to clean my garage spot less cover everything with plastic, wet the floor, use my air compressor to blow away the cob webs then i rent none explosive fans from the rental shop put some filters on them like 3m household filters. Now the last thing is to do it on a hot day let everything warm up good then paint and it will look like a pro shop did your paint, then the pain become to buffing and wet sanding the clear with 1000 grit paper its alot of work but worth it i painted my car when the weather is cool and it does not work as good so i like the heat

 

[donsrods]

BTW, along these same lines, once you have the frame or body or whatever to bare metal, there is a great product to keep it that way for a while. Even here in Florida where the humidity is like 900% it works great. It is called Picklex 20 and can be bought in small bottles or gallons. Not super cheap, a gallon is around $ 100, but it lasts a long time.

Another benefit is that if the part does get surface rust on it you can simply spray on the Picklex and with a scotchbrite pad do some minor scrubbing. Before it dries wipe it off with clean cloth and the rust goes away. We just used it again last week when we mounted the body back on my Kids 30 rpu. The bed and body had sat for a year in bare metal and had developed surface rust. A little work with the Picklex and scotchbrite pad and it came out like new. My Son said he felt like one of those TV pitchmen because he kept calling me over to show me how easily the rust was coming off! :lol:

Here is the body after cleaning it up. If you don't touch it with sweaty hands it will stay that way for a while as the Picklex kills the rust too.

Don

 

[Ted Brown]

That is a great product, as I think it is a must to drive your completed ride for at least 1000 miles or more, before putting a paint, primer, anything at all on the metal, as you will find that you will be changing a few things after driving and testing all the suspension, brakes, steering, etc.. much easier to fix and change anything with no paint, and no chrome.. just me here, this will save you lots of time and $$$ :lol:

 

[AZCOWBO]

Check around some of the cities or local auto dealers will rent you a booth very reasonable.

 

[python_one]

Thanks MUCH guys for all of your help. Everyone had some great points. Man, sure is shocking. I use to go to the local paint store and buy a gallon of RED Ditzler delthane or Dupont Centari acrylic paint for $30. Now days that won't buy your stirring sticks :hyper:... I know, they're free. Just crazy!
Does anyone have input on using HVLP vs. syphon gun. I have my old Devilbis MBC-510 gun with (if I remeber from 25 yrs ago) a # 30 cap and forget what needle and tip. Worked great except for the overspray.
Thanks again guys, cruise on.....
Larry

 

[Brucer]

I bought an hvlp gun from a place here called Pivco, wanted to try one for a while just didn't want to spend the money.. The brand I got was, if I remember correct was Feenix,made by Sharpe, cost like $100.00.. Turned out to be a great gun.. Nearly no overspray.. This is where you save money in the long run, and hvlp doesn't blow as much overspray as a conventional gun. Wish I would have bought one years ago.. I use my old devilbiss gun for primer now, nothing like spraying primer with a $300 devilbiss :hyper:

I like Dupont paint. Their shopline grade of paint is pretty good... But buy the good clear, its easier to work with..