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Power Steering Pulley Removal...???

engine24355

Member
Hey guys. It has been a while, but have a question for the experts out there. Anyone have experience removing a power steering pump pulley with no lip? It is a polished aluminum one so trying to be very careful and do not want to use a traditional style claw puller. The keyed type puller kits will not work because there is no lip to grab the pulley to remove. I have heard of pressing out using a arbor press along with other make shift techniques, but was not sure if there is a more proper way. Please let me know what you guys have used in the past or think would be a good way to remove safely.

Thanks in advance!
 
Wow, I have used the pullers on the ones with lips but not sure how you would remove yours. I guess a press with some sort of support under the pulley, but I would be worried about breaking or distorting the aluminum ones. Hope someone has a definitive answer for you.

Don
 
Use the gear separator behind the pulley and pull on the separator.
img_PR6-4292B.jpg
 
Being alum, after you get the thing in a press or set up to pull, a little heat on the pulley may be less stressful on it.
 
Ok, get the puller as Duke showed you or put the pump up in the arborpress. I have a little kickpress I use to keep from putting too much pressure on things, blocking it up and putting a 3" long bolt just a touch smaller than the shaft between the ram and the power steering shaft.
Get a couple of short pieces of wood, you'll need them. Go grab that little propane torch you have. And a pr of thick welders gloves.
Light the torch and start about 1" away from the outter edge, start heating this pulley in a circle About the 4th round, start spiraling in with the torch, and when you get in right next to the hub at the shaft go around about 4 or 5 times.
After its thoroughly warm, grab your gloves and go to jacking with either that pulley or the press. Shouldn't take too much, you'll here a 'pop' and get her off there fast.

When you go to get that pulley on your new pump, grab a deadblow hammer or a rawhide hammer, put them up on your worktable. Take your pulley, put it in the oven on a cookie sheet with your wifes permission, heat to 450 degrees for 30 minutes. Go to your work table, put a coating of antiseize on your new pump's shaft. Drink a cold one.
After the pulley is baked for 30 minutes, with your thick welding gloves and a thick rag, take the pulley to your workbench. Grab the new powersteering pump in one hand, hold the pump so the shaft is horizonal, with the other gloved hand, start the pulley onto the shaft. If your lucky it'll slide on. If not, grab that rawhide hammer, give it a good tap, and usually its about in the edge of the pulley is on the edge of the shaft territory. Tap it on the hub, with a piece of wood.
Get it where you want it fast, cause that pulley will grab ahold of that shaft fairly fast. You can press it on, won't take much pressure, usually a hammer you can tap it on.
Hold the pulley where it needs to be for a few moments, then, lay that pump so that the pulley is sticking straight up, with wood under the pump, so the pulley will cool. A small fan blowing in its direction will help things.
Don't go hitting your pulley with a regular hammer, and when you do smack it, use a piece of wood between the pulley hub and the hammer. When its hot, you should be able to just tap it on. If its hot enough, it'll just slide on if your quick enough....
 
Thanks for the information guys. We ended up taking the pump to a shop that did the job for us and did not charge anything. The shop showed us how to put the pulley back on the new pump using a bolt and stacking washers to press it back on. Worked our good and we are back in business.
 
So can you tell us about your Power Steering set-up?
 
Mark you do know this thread was last done in 2012, I have not seen this fellow on here in a long time.....
 
I took a chance!

So has anyone else done power steering in a T-bucket?
 
I took a chance!

So has anyone else done power steering in a T-bucket?


Strangely enough I've been giving it a bit of thought . . . .

As much as I like the look with the big wide tires in the rear and smaller in the front, I have pondered what it would look like with fairly big tires in front too, like an F1 race car.

I'm pretty sure it would have to have power steering to do that.
 
Strangely enough I've been giving it a bit of thought . . . .

As much as I like the look with the big wide tires in the rear and smaller in the front, I have pondered what it would look like with fairly big tires in front too, like an F1 race car.

I'm pretty sure it would have to have power steering to do that.

My problem is that at low speeds (i.e. Parking lot car shows) my wife does not have the strength to turn the wheel. So she refuses to drive the T.
 
I have been told that a “Type 4 steering pump / 144 Saginaw steering box” are good components for Power Steering in a T.

Any thoughts?
 
Mark have you changed the location of the steering wheel on you car at all? I think you biggest problem is the way you have to turn the wheel. Most of the movement you have to do to turn the wheel is in the wrist I think. Post a photo if you will here with you sitting in the car and without you in the car. Lets see if that may help with your problem. Long time ago I drove your car (before you bought it) and it seems that my hands were kinda of low in my lap but I am somewhat taller than you so I need to see a photo.....
 
Not really a good test. That takes all the weight off the front end including kingpins & thrust washers. Better test is a grease plate under each front tire. lincolnut might be on to something as well.
 

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