rideing on eggs
- Thread starter joes23t
- Start date
GT63 said:
The Hoosiers are great, a big differance over my old N50's. Smoothed things right out.
joes23t
New Member
Latest up date both rear wheels are a steel Early Wheel co. and the tires are a Tyre Internationl all from Total. Called Brian to find out what the run out spacs are. Brian called me back with this info and replied industries standers for the rims is .050. Earlys standerds are max .035 the most I have is .030 still need to run the assembly back out to find the high in the tire. Once the highspot in the tire is found we will rotate the two 180 from each other and try agin. "Common Practice" If still bad then send them back paying all the shipping and must still have over 90% of its tread to be accepted. Will be working on them tomarrow.
More update later. Thank for all you responses
Joe
More update later. Thank for all you responses
Joe
donsrods
Member
You might want to also check to make sure your wheels aren't bent slightly. We have had two instances recently........first a brand new Wheel Vintiques rim from Coker on the back of my Son's T (you could watch the bed hopping up and down going down the road) and then a bent '46 Merc wheel on the front of my T.
I put a dial indicator on mine and it ran out 70/1000 side to side.
Don
I put a dial indicator on mine and it ran out 70/1000 side to side.
Don
Brucer
New Member
dunno how many of you have heard of this..
but alot of tire manufacturers put a red dot on the tire..
the red dot is suppose to be lined up with the valve stem..
i worked for a machine shop years ago that did r&d for a wheel manufacurer.. and i can tell you .030 runout on a steel rim is actually pretty accurate.. we were doing semi truck wheels and that company allowed .060 runout on thier wheels.. Spun Aluminum wheels we were allowed .005 total runout. special instances .003 total runout..
but alot of tire manufacturers put a red dot on the tire..
the red dot is suppose to be lined up with the valve stem..
i worked for a machine shop years ago that did r&d for a wheel manufacurer.. and i can tell you .030 runout on a steel rim is actually pretty accurate.. we were doing semi truck wheels and that company allowed .060 runout on thier wheels.. Spun Aluminum wheels we were allowed .005 total runout. special instances .003 total runout..
"The Bat" out of hell
Member
This works fine for street cars too;
Being a low buck racer,I spent a lot time[no cost just time] on both my rims and the used race tires I'd get cheepO and I balance them my self after..
Here's some tricks I did,I'd check my rims and mark high and low spots,about .060 max. was still OK of run out on the out side of rim.passed that I'd fix it or junk it. With tires I'd mount them on my best rim that showed no run out as a check for tire,and check tire with the same .060 being max,but this had to be done with a tire that had been not mounted for a week or so,to keep it from having flat spot from setting on a car, some times you can let the air out,put the flat spot side in the sun for 2 hr. and then put PSI in it too 15lb.s above running PSI,then let it back too the right running and check it again 4 run out. Then mark tire for low and high, take that tire and add it to another rim by mounting tire's low spot to rims high spot,end should be min. run out,then balance.
To Balance your self; Do hub/drum or disk by it self,then add rim/tire;;
You can balance the hub /drum your self,here's how;
When regreasing wheel bearings is a good time to do this,and replace seals after[one time deal.
First is check that the drum fits hub same spot[center and lug]every time[mark if needed],that all lug nuts are same. With axle jacked up and tire/rim off,take hub/drum off,remove seal ,clean grease out,clean bearings very good,[be sure there good],back adjustment of brakes,to free spin.Now to balance;
Temp,Put a lite oil[WD40 works]on bearings and replace hub/drum on axle with out seal,spin to be sure it is turning very free,let it come to a stop,put a mark at bottom outer edge,then spin again,to check if you really found heavy spot,make sure it retuns to same spot each time after spin.
OK, now just move marked spot up to, like from 6:00 at bottom to 3:00 or 9:00 if a clock] and let it go,see and note how fast it moves back to 6:00= tells you how bad off it is, now you can drill off steel at that mark or add some to 12:00 spot,tell you can move your heavy mark up to the 3:00 or 9:00 and it stays there.
After thats done,replace the tire/rim and you can then do the same thing to tire/rim to balance them also,but with tire lead WT. or sticky lead by adding it across from heavy spot.
Hope that helps save some bucks too.
Being a low buck racer,I spent a lot time[no cost just time] on both my rims and the used race tires I'd get cheepO and I balance them my self after..
Here's some tricks I did,I'd check my rims and mark high and low spots,about .060 max. was still OK of run out on the out side of rim.passed that I'd fix it or junk it. With tires I'd mount them on my best rim that showed no run out as a check for tire,and check tire with the same .060 being max,but this had to be done with a tire that had been not mounted for a week or so,to keep it from having flat spot from setting on a car, some times you can let the air out,put the flat spot side in the sun for 2 hr. and then put PSI in it too 15lb.s above running PSI,then let it back too the right running and check it again 4 run out. Then mark tire for low and high, take that tire and add it to another rim by mounting tire's low spot to rims high spot,end should be min. run out,then balance.
To Balance your self; Do hub/drum or disk by it self,then add rim/tire;;
You can balance the hub /drum your self,here's how;
When regreasing wheel bearings is a good time to do this,and replace seals after[one time deal.
First is check that the drum fits hub same spot[center and lug]every time[mark if needed],that all lug nuts are same. With axle jacked up and tire/rim off,take hub/drum off,remove seal ,clean grease out,clean bearings very good,[be sure there good],back adjustment of brakes,to free spin.Now to balance;
Temp,Put a lite oil[WD40 works]on bearings and replace hub/drum on axle with out seal,spin to be sure it is turning very free,let it come to a stop,put a mark at bottom outer edge,then spin again,to check if you really found heavy spot,make sure it retuns to same spot each time after spin.
OK, now just move marked spot up to, like from 6:00 at bottom to 3:00 or 9:00 if a clock] and let it go,see and note how fast it moves back to 6:00= tells you how bad off it is, now you can drill off steel at that mark or add some to 12:00 spot,tell you can move your heavy mark up to the 3:00 or 9:00 and it stays there.
After thats done,replace the tire/rim and you can then do the same thing to tire/rim to balance them also,but with tire lead WT. or sticky lead by adding it across from heavy spot.
Hope that helps save some bucks too.
