Setting caster running "bones"

[baddawgcustoms]

I'm still on the fence as far as what style suspension to run on my T. I like the simplicity of the "standard" suicide design, the old school look of running bones, and the correct geometry of running a 4 bar. My question is when running the split bone setup, how do you set the caster, other than the angle in which the rear of the bones are mounted? Or bending the axle? I want to run a four bar setup, just because i want to be able to align the car better, and I've read so much about simple changes in caster, and toe, that change the way the car rides and drives, I will definitely run adjustable style rods. I just happen to be curious about the adjustment on the bones. Someone educate me!

 

[Golly]

It's all in the build really. Mounts for the traditonal style radius rods need to be built in to the chassis so it has about 8-10 degrees of caster (axle leaning back). Four bar mounts need to be done the same, as even though there is some adjustment in the bars, you don't want excessive threads sticking out of the bars either. Theoretically, a 4 bar set up works better, and rides better, but in reality, with only about 3-4 inches of suspension travel in a T, I don't think it doesn't make a huge difference .

 

[bobs66440]

Theoretically, a 4 bar set up works better, and rides better, but in reality, with only about 3-4 inches of suspension travel in a T, I don't think it doesn't make a huge difference .

I agree. From what I have read, the single component that makes the most significant difference is tube shocks, as opposed to friction.

 

[baddawgcustoms]

I agree. From what I have read, the single component that makes the most significant difference is tube shocks, as opposed to friction.

Yes I'm really on the fence friction vs conventional shocks. Friction can be made to look so much better. I'm constantly reading about someone happy as heck for changing over to tube shocks. I'm definitely running a tunable suspension, but I was just curious as to how you could ever get your caster correct without any way to adjust it except placement of the rear of the bone. Most of them are so long it probably doesn't change the caster very much during suspension travel, which isn't much anyway.

 

[bobs66440]

I think with the model T and model A, having perfect geometry wasn't critical at the low speeds they typically ran. Now we are going triple the speed with the same archaic design and suddenly it matters.

 

[2old2fast]

As you've already figured out , caster adj. is not possible w/"original style" split bones , instead , caster is pre-set during construction by "pie-cutting" then re-welding after bending the desired caster into the link[bone]
dave
perhaps you could "google" pie-cutting split bones for more info

 

[RPM]

You only need about 5 degrees of caster in a car that is street driven. 10 degrees will make it really hard to steer. A lot of caster will cause the front of the car to raise up from the extreme angles. With your split bones, you can mount the chassis ends when ever you want. This will make the car look right and not have that end hanging down 6" to get needed caster. The way hot rodders set the caster is to pie cut the bones, then weld them back together. The axle end is forged steel, right behind that end you can cut a pie shaped piece out to change the axle angle. Get it where you want it and weld up the pie cut.

If you are going to use that set up, remember that the front perch should be welded on at what ever caster angle you want, so the spring shackles won't bind.

 

[baddawgcustoms]

You only need about 5 degrees of caster in a car that is street driven. 10 degrees will make it really hard to steer. A lot of caster will cause the front of the car to raise up from the extreme angles. With your split bones, you can mount the chassis ends when ever you want. This will make the car look right and not have that end hanging down 6" to get needed caster. The way hot rodders set the caster is to pie cut the bones, then weld them back together. The axle end is forged steel, right behind that end you can cut a pie shaped piece out to change the axle angle. Get it where you want it and weld up the pie cut.

If you are going to use that set up, remember that the front perch should be welded on at what ever caster angle you want, so the spring shackles won't bind.

Thanks Ron. That is exactly what I wanted to know. I like the looks of the old bones and I beam for an old school look. I've seen shackle pivots with 5 degree offset and I was assuming they were for using on the bones for mounting the spring. Still on the fence about suspension. I do know whatever I use on the front I want to use on the back as well. Just like it when they match up. Just won't make that decision till I get your stretch body on the frame with radiator and engine/trans in place and roll up a set of tires, and stair at it for a good long while. I really like the "Curtis" style rods front and back. Just the best look to me for what I THINK I want. I'm sure you can make those for me just about any length, and put 4 bar style ends on them? Probably about 42" front and back.