Steering U-joints and Stuff

[Old Rotor Flap]

I have three concerns and welcome your comments and opinions.

1. I'm planning on buying steering U-joints and an engine bay collapsible steering section from Woodward Steering in Wyoming.As I read about their products, they recommend steering joints not be installed over a 20 degree angle. It seems to me there must be a bunch of street rods running around with joints installed at well over that angle.

2. Things would be easier if I were to run thee steering u-joints ; one at the rack and collapsible section (mentioned above) one joint at the other end of that section to another tubular section and a third joint to the column or shaft that will hold the sterring wheel. All three shaft sections wil be well supported with appropriate bearings.. those slightly oversize .750" rod ends. Are three steering joints a common practice?
One would have to be out of phase with the other two. Another thoughts on phasing?

3. Even easier would be to sneak a shaft under the #1 header pipe close to the header flange and above the #2 header pipe putting the shaft very close to the two pipes and flange. This would eliminate the collapsible section and reduce the number of u-joints to two. Heat and engine/frame torqueing are obvious areas of concern. I have hugger type headers and don't want to have to change headers as a prefer the exhaust in the engine bay and then under the car.

FYI: http://www.woodwardsteering.com/

 

[Ted Brown]

U joint phasing, with steering I have always turned them 90 degrees from each other for less binding at strong angles, even with short drive shafts... I have never had a failure of those assemblies over all these years when done like that, But, I have had a drive shaft failure before the change... Now days I see they make an offset U joint, (super-flex-U joint) made for less to no binding at angles... Fine for longer drive shafts, longer than 7 inches I believe... Travel stops help greatly with stopping U joint angle failure...

 

[EX JUNK]

According to Borgeson, they recommend that 30 degrees is the maximum angle. Any more than that dramatically increases the stress on a joint, weakening the whole steering system. If a greater angle is required, use a double joint, which is good up to 60 degrees or use two joints. In regards to "phasing", the forks of the yokes closest to each other should be in line, not out of phase. Premature wear or binding can result if u-joints are not phased properly.

Jim

 

[Ted Brown]

once a U joint is together and a perfect 90 difference they are pretty much dumb to that fact, except they don't bind at greater angles, time and hard use has proven this to me... everyone has their way, that is mine...

 

[PotvinGuy]

Huh...never heard of phasing in regard to steering U-joints. I have a double and a single in my steering for 20 years, have no idea re their phase. Can't imagine it would make a difference.

 

[EX JUNK]

Huh...never heard of phasing in regard to steering U-joints. I have a double and a single in my steering for 20 years, have no idea re their phase. Can't imagine it would make a difference.

Read this link: http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/custom_steering_system/index.html

Jim

 

[PotvinGuy]

Read this link: http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/custom_steering_system/index.html

Jim

I read it, but there is just an assertion (albeit by a supposed authority), no technical explanation. Now I'm thinking the criticality depends on shaft length, short shafts being more sensitive. My shaft is over 3 feet, with a support in the middle, and I can't find any wear on the joints after 20 years. And it steers fine, and will probably outlive me, rats.

 

[409T]

I have noticed that the rpm of my steering shaft is inversely proportional to the rpm of my drive shaft.

 

[Gerry]

I have noticed that the rpm of my steering shaft is inversely proportional to the rpm of my drive shaft.

Have you checked that out using the recognized quadratic equation?????