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To shock, or not to shock? That is the question! Whether it tis better. . ...

I recently acquired a second-hand T-Bucket project that has never been completed. The front end has no shocks and no shock mounts. It has a transverse leaf spring front suspension. Anybody running one of these front ends without shocks? The travel seems so limited I'm not sure that they're necessary?!
 
My opinion: put shock on it. As with any spring suspension, the spring oscillates when deflected, even a little bit. The shocks dampen the oscillations and improve the ride. They can also improve 'bump-steer' events. Here's my setup, using Speedway 'Hotrod Shocks' and CCR shock mounts.
 

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My opinion: put shock on it. As with any spring suspension, the spring oscillates when deflected, even a little bit. The shocks dampen the oscillations and improve the ride. They can also improve 'bump-steer' events. Here's my setup, using Speedway 'Hotrod Shocks' and CCR shock mounts.
I can't argue with any of that, Spanky. Thank you for your response.
 
While each of Spanky's points seems logically valid, I am certainly open to hear other points of view. I believe Spanky's assertions to be absolutely true but, I'm interested to hear if anyone has gone without? For instance: I have a '46 GMC one and a half ton truck that has no shocks at all! However, these are wholly different scenarios. Additionally, only one of my race cars has shocks. Most of them are solid suspension front and rear. The one with shocks, I don't know what to do with them. They are just there. Lol
 
My opinion: put shock on it. As with any spring suspension, the spring oscillates when deflected, even a little bit. The shocks dampen the oscillations and improve the ride. They can also improve 'bump-steer' events. Here's my setup, using Speedway 'Hotrod Shocks' and CCR shock mounts.
P.S. I really dig your ride, Spanky! Not too flashy, screams "hot rod"!
 
I didn’t have shocks on my first bucket and never thought I needed them. BUT mine was not the average t bucket!
 

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While each of Spanky's points seems logically valid, I am certainly open to hear other points of view. I believe Spanky's assertions to be absolutely true but, I'm interested to hear if anyone has gone without? For instance: I have a '46 GMC one and a half ton truck that has no shocks at all! However, these are wholly different scenarios. Additionally, only one of my race cars has shocks. Most of them are solid suspension front and rear. The one with shocks, I don't know what to do with them. They are just there. Lol
I too own some old heavy trucks without shocks but they have a stack of springs that require two men and a boy to lift, lol... log wagons, so to speak. I would opt for them, but depending on your roads, driving conditions, etc, it may be fine. Perhaps some old friction dampers? Try it out and see how it feels. Not hard to add as a addition. After all, these things are seldom done... always one more thing. If the springs are stiff and not deflecting, shocks would be non issues, but if you get it to actually suspend and function, different scenario. Just my thoughts.
 
I too own some old heavy trucks without shocks but they have a stack of springs that require two men and a boy to lift, lol... log wagons, so to speak. I would opt for them, but depending on your roads, driving conditions, etc, it may be fine. Perhaps some old friction dampers? Try it out and see how it feels. Not hard to add as a addition. After all, these things are seldom done... always one more thing. If the springs are stiff and not deflecting, shocks would be non issues, but if you get it to actually suspend and function, different scenario. Just my thoughts.
Thank you, fletcherson. Reasonably considered and well stated.
 
My bucket, with it's old friction shocks, had an issue with axle tramp. Basically the tires would hop alternately just a little at highway speed. Didn't notice it in the steering wheel oddly enough, but not comfortable to watch...for me anyway. I made different, more effective friction shocks with a shorter arm and mounted them closer to the wheel on each side. I also used a Chevy door check spring on each one to preload the friction pads and keep adjustments to a minimum. (Never actually needed to after!) Never had the tramping issue again. There are other ways to do it and also versions you can buy. Hydraulic shocks are good too of course but I just felt like staying with frictions for my T.
Heres what I made.
11703401_10153394508550115_6715721896138940856_o.jpg
 
My bucket, with it's old friction shocks, had an issue with axle tramp. Basically the tires would hop alternately just a little at highway speed. Didn't notice it in the steering wheel oddly enough, but not comfortable to watch...for me anyway. I made different, more effective friction shocks with a shorter arm and mounted them closer to the wheel on each side. I also used a Chevy door check spring on each one to preload the friction pads and keep adjustments to a minimum. (Never actually needed to after!) Never had the tramping issue again. There are other ways to do it and also versions you can buy. Hydraulic shocks are good too of course but I just felt like staying with frictions for my T.
Heres what I made.
View attachment 24740
I like it. I had begun thinking of making my own. I was, admittedly, over-engineering though. I like your simple design.
 
Nice job Hackerbilt! What did you use for friction pads? Also, can you elaborate on the Chevy door check spring? No rush. I haven’t decided what I’m going to do on mine yet. It has chrome hydraulic shocks on it, but they are at a 45* angle, so I’m not sure how effective they are. Re engineering stuff and trying to retain the nostalgia of the past can be challenging.
 
My bucket, with it's old friction shocks, had an issue with axle tramp. Basically the tires would hop alternately just a little at highway speed. Didn't notice it in the steering wheel oddly enough, but not comfortable to watch...for me anyway. I made different, more effective friction shocks with a shorter arm and mounted them closer to the wheel on each side. I also used a Chevy door check spring on each one to preload the friction pads and keep adjustments to a minimum. (Never actually needed to after!) Never had the tramping issue again. There are other ways to do it and also versions you can buy. Hydraulic shocks are good too of course but I just felt like staying with frictions for my T.
Heres what I made.
View attachment 24740

Nice job Hackerbilt! What did you use for friction pads? Also, can you elaborate on the Chevy door check spring? No rush. I haven’t decided what I’m going to do on mine yet. It has chrome hydraulic shocks on it, but they are at a 45* angle, so I’m not sure how effective they are. Re engineering stuff and trying to retain the nostalgia of the past can be challenging.

I am also interested
 
Your front end will pogo side to side without shocks. Ask me how I know!
 
Nice job Hackerbilt! What did you use for friction pads? Also, can you elaborate on the Chevy door check spring? No rush. I haven’t decided what I’m going to do on mine yet. It has chrome hydraulic shocks on it, but they are at a 45* angle, so I’m not sure how effective they are. Re engineering stuff and trying to retain the nostalgia of the past can be challenging.
Was kinda busy so just now getting back to the forum. I thought I had a clear picture of the back of the shock setup but it's not so easy to find unfortunately.
Easy to describe the setup anyway.
There is a flat bracket (red) welded to the tube crossmember on either side.
There is a full width bracket (silver) that crosses from one side to the other to allow for a working double friction disc setup.
The shock arms are sandwiched between them with rubber friction discs on either side of the shock arms...so 4 discs in total.
They were hole-sawed from the sidewall of an old bias/ply tire.
The center bolt of each shock is long enough to have an old Chevy door check spring (like a valve spring, which could also be used just as easily) added to the rear of the assembly.
This allows the shock bolts to be preloaded with tension (using Ny-loc style nuts to hold preset) and as the rubber discs degrade over time they still keep a decent amount of pressure applied to the discs and arms.
The links to attach the shocks to the axle brackets are male and female Heim joints screwed together.
I used this for two summers with no adjustment needed and then traded the car off (mistake) for more comfort.
I doubt the new owner has ever messed with it since.
It worked really well and completely eliminated the tramping (pogoing) of the front tires and looks pretty good. Doing it again I would make the arms have a smaller profile with smaller holes just for looks. They seem a little clunky.
 
These are the friction shocks I made for my bucket. Seems like they are very similar to what @Hackerbilt made. This should give you a good idea of the spring setup he used. For mine I used a slant six valve spring and retainer. I searched a lot of threads across the internet on friction material and am giving this UHMW plastic a try. The reason people were suggesting this on the forums was the material has less static friction so it will result in a smoother operation. I may try some other materials this season though. Unfortunately my long shock arms probably don't help either so maybe some stiffer material like rubber would help. I eventually welded tabs to the spring shackles for the mounts.
friction shock 2.jpg
 

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