Total re-wire project

[ElderTee]

Hey Guys: Have had the old Elder T, now, for a little over a year and it's time for a total re-wire. I am looking at the Painless 8 circuit Modular specifically made for T's. I'm only wiring for the following: headlights, turn signals, brake lights, four way flashers, fuel pump, alternator, starter and dash guages/Tachometer. I have installed a Petronix ignition. At this time, The voltage regulator and starter relay are attached to the fiberglass body and wire grounded to the frame. I am thinking of remounting both items directly to the frame. Question is..would I still have to ground the units via ground wire? I am also installing a grounding block which will serve as grounds for anything requiring grounding. I am a novice and have never attempted a project of this type, but figure that the car is mine and I should know what is what and where it is and how it works...Any suggestions on an electrical board would also be appreciated. (Photos would help immeasurably) I will be mounting this circuit board under the drivers seat. ANY and ALL information or suggestions would be greatly appreciated... Tom Burns, Inverness, FL

 

[old round fart]

You can never have to many grounds! Even with the relays mounted to the frame, a short jumper to the ground strip can not hurt anything. Take your time and make a diagram as you go and you will be fine.

 

[ElderTee]

You can never have to many grounds! Even with the relays mounted to the frame, a short jumper to the ground strip can not hurt anything. Take your time and make a diagram as you go and you will be fine.

Thank you for the input, I am in agreement as to the grounds considering all that surrounding fiberglass. The diagram is a great idea, thanks again..Elder T

 

[Youngster]

You might think abour a one wire altenator. Won't need the voltage regulater that way. Would also suggest replacing your amp guage if you have one with a voltmeter.

Ron

 

[PotvinGuy]

I run all grounds back to a ground bus on the underseat panel. I don't use the frame at all, except to keep the car from falling apart :kiltdance:

My Optima battery, also underseat, has side and top terminals. I use the side terminals for short heavy cables to the starter, and the top terminals for everything else. You can find some really slick battery connectors on eBay.

Keep spare fuses in the car.

 

[rooster57]

The painless kit is a good one from what ive seen. If you are going that route get the gauge harness as well. If you have a GM column they also have a harness for that to. I built my own but thats just me. Just remember everywhere a wire goes so does a ground. I would ground the frame and build a ground buss copper strip drilled and tapped works or buy one from painless. If your turn signals are not on the column i recommend the signal dynamics module.

 

[409T]

You'll get lots of answers as to what product to use. My favorite is the Ron Francis block that comes without wires, and I simply add my own. I feel it is a lot easier to run from the accessory back to the fuse block than the other way around. Just personal preference, however I also would recommend a grounding block and as Rooster said, everywhere a wire goes so does a ground.

Jeff

 

[ThomasBurns]

The painless kit is a good one from what ive seen. If you are going that route get the gauge harness as well. If you have a GM column they also have a harness for that to. I built my own but thats just me. Just remember everywhere a wire goes so does a ground. I would ground the frame and build a ground buss copper strip drilled and tapped works or buy one from painless. If your turn signals are not on the column i recommend the signal dynamics module.

Rooster57, thanks for the initial input on the electrical system. I decided to go it on my own as the commercial harnesses are all to big for the needs of my bucket. I have attached a photo of the box, which will be mounted under the driver seat. Will utilize a Penta Star for all turn signals as well as a Harley D keyed ignition switch and a push button starter. Changed over to a one wire, 100 amp alternator. Changed all gauges from mechanical to electronic. Should be pullin the wire in a couple of weeks. will post the results before embarking on the next "project". Thanks again. Tom Burns

 

[putz]

Rooster57, thanks for the initial input on the electrical system. I decided to go it on my own as the commercial harnesses are all to big for the needs of my bucket. I have attached a photo of the box, which will be mounted under the driver seat. Will utilize a Penta Star for all turn signals as well as a Harley D keyed ignition switch and a push button starter. Changed over to a one wire, 100 amp alternator. Changed all gauges from mechanical to electronic. Should be pullin the wire in a couple of weeks. will post the results before embarking on the next "project". Thanks again. Tom Burns

What ever you do do not under any circumstances run all the same color wire so it blends in with other colors on car. People have done this then can't trace a bad wire when you need to.JMO

 

[Mr. Fixit]

You are getting great advice from the gang.

I used a 100 amp one wire alt and chose the Penta Star for mine as well. I wired the entire car one wire at a time after first drawing everything by color in CAD (but you can easily do it by hand on several sheets) When completed, I had not one issue and everything works perfectly.

http://signaldynamics.com/index.php...n=com_virtuemart&Itemid=77&vmcchk=1&Itemid=77

I set mine up so that the hazards would work with one momentary push button by connecting both the left and right signal switches together and using a diode, in lieu of having to use two buttons (like you would on a motorcycle). If you would like to do this, send me a PM. Good luck...

 

[spayne]

Not sure if you plan on changing any lights to LED's be careful I had a he** of a time getting my turn signal relay to work with LED"S. The problem is they don't draw very much current on the load side to get the relay to work properly. If you do you may need dummy load resistors to help. Just trying to help a T brother out before he gets in trouble with wiring. It drove me crazy for about a month before I got help.

 

[guilld]

LED's are the best thing to happen to street rods in a while. I noticed on the video of National T-Bucket event you could barely see the tailights on the T in front of the camera. The 32 has 41 chevy lights. Orginally regular lights and I tried every extra bright bulb I could find but with no visibility in the day time. I changed to LED this past winter and what a difference. We just got back from the Shades run and I see a lot of hot rods with tailights (brake lights) that are barely visible. You just have to change the flasher.

 

[Chief-T]

LED bulbs that fit regular sockets are also available. Check out this site.


http://www.autolumination.com

 

[GT63]

LED bulbs that fit regular sockets are also available. Check out this site.


http://www.autolumination.com

Or check out these: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-...tion=DispPage&Page2Disp=/tail-brake-turn.html

 

[guilld]

I have some of the just bulbs in the rear turns, which are additional to the 41 chevy. They are brighter but not as bright as a total conversion. Also some of the just bulbs will not fit inside the old style lights. They would not fit inside the 41 chevy.

 

[guilld]

This is a link to 17 second video of the tail lights. As close as I am you cannot see the extra turn/brake under the tank. They are Harley turns with led builbs.

 

[2old2fast]

Guild, I really like those [light output] what bulbs? what changes , if any, did you have to make ? Specifics. please?!


dave

 

[guilld]

I just bought a 41 chevy led conversion from speedway. The bulbs in the harley lights I think came from the link in GT63's post the super bright lights. I have followed the 32 with my son driving and you get good visibility in the day and great visibility at night.

 

[Differen T]

Lots of good advice above;

1- Buy wires that are marked for their intended usage

2- A continuous ground wire for everything with several frame mounting points as well as directly to the battery

3- A separate heavy ground wire from the starter to the battery (in my case I had a 6' cable from the battery to the starter and it needed a direct matching ground to get the starter to operate properly)

4- LED turn signals need a resistor in order to operate properly. They fit between the flasher mount and the flasher and have their own ground wire. They can be found on line.

5- Either use switches that are heavy enough to handle the current draw for the ignition, headlights, fuel pump and the horn or use relay switches.

6- Carefully plan where the wires will be run to avoid heat sources and add protective coverings to protect them from wear and other damage

Al

 

[boostedzx3]

I have found myself in the same situation as mentioned in the orginal post. My T was finished in 1989, since then there have been some major innovations in the auto aftermarket industry including these nice harnesses. My question is, Im running a chrysler 440. Most of these harnesses are all GM and Ford biased. Any suggestions?