Transmission rebuild kit

[Bucketman]

Hey everybody, I'm back with more questions. I have a th350 that looks to be in fairly good shape. Only thing in the pan was clutch material, no metal chunks. The guy I bought it from said it had 116,000 miles on it. I'm going to rebuild (and inspect) it and wanted to know which rebuild kit would be best. What is the difference in stage 1, 2, and 3? Does a rebuild kit come with the shift kit for quicker shifts? Is B&M the best kit or would Alto be better? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[CARS34PHORD]

I got a rebuild kit on eBay with alto clutches for 110.00 free shipping. I don't feel you need a shift kit with a lite weight of a T Bucket. All the parts in the kit clutches an steels gaskets were all USA made. My wife was a center manger for AMMCO for 27 years so I got a lot of feedback from her on the parts quality. Just buy yourself a book on TB 350 rebuilding an geter done.

 

[fletcherson]

I got a rebuild kit on eBay with alto clutches for 110.00 free shipping. I don't feel you need a shift kit with a lite weight of a T Bucket. All the parts in the kit clutches an steels gaskets were all USA made. My wife was a center manger for AMMCO for 27 years so I got a lot of feedback from her on the parts quality. Just buy yourself a book on TB 350 rebuilding an geter done.

Pay attention to the seals when assembling and use lube! also keep everything clean, I like to use cardboard on the bench then I just discard it with the mess.

 

[Bucketman]

I bought a rebuild book for the th350. Just reading it got me a little confused, so I watched a couple of videos on You Tube. After that the book makes more sense. So I ordered a DVD on how to rebuild a th350. 90 minutes long, and the guy on You Tube completely rebuilt one in about half that time. I originally called Ammco to see what they would charge me and they told me between $700 and $1200. That would totally blow my budget so I'm going to try doing it myself.
On the You Tube videos one guy used Vaseline for lubing the seals and one used STP oil treatment. My book says Vaseline so that's what I'll use. The cardboard sounds like a good idea, I'll use that too.
So the Alto kit is good enough? Just figured on the shift kit, since I had it apart, and it does make the clutches last longer, I might as well put one in.

 

[fletcherson]

I bought a rebuild book for the th350. Just reading it got me a little confused, so I watched a couple of videos on You Tube. After that the book makes more sense. So I ordered a DVD on how to rebuild a th350. 90 minutes long, and the guy on You Tube completely rebuilt one in about half that time. I originally called Ammco to see what they would charge me and they told me between $700 and $1200. That would totally blow my budget so I'm going to try doing it myself.
On the You Tube videos one guy used Vaseline for lubing the seals and one used STP oil treatment. My book says Vaseline so that's what I'll use. The cardboard sounds like a good idea, I'll use that too.
So the Alto kit is good enough? Just figured on the shift kit, since I had it apart, and it does make the clutches last longer, I might as well put one in.

Not a fan of stp for this purpose, we once (young and dumb) used it as assembly lube on a 327 and had to pull it apart and clean it out (too thick) because it wouldn't rotate. I use vaseline or assembly jelly on trannys when I have it and wheel bearing or white grease to hold bearings, check balls, etc. You likely won't need much of a trans in a lightweight bucket, so if you don't plan on racing it or melting tires routinely, heavy clutches, etc are overkill. The th350 is a good trans by design and has favorable gear ratios and are not particularly hard on clutches anyways, from my experience unless over worked or over powered. The shift kit will give quicker, firm, and sometimes harsh shifts. I would caution you to go with the stage 1 or light street/towing kit to begin with. It's easier to go more firm than to go back because you drill holes, etc . You can also change shift points with an adjustable modulator valve and, or the governor, and they are external adjustments. The worst feeling is to build one and realize that you went too far and have to pull it apart to replace valve body parts, etc while laying under it with fluid running down your face...Put a drain plug in the pan if not there for future servicing and install a good in-line cooler or heat sink on it to keep it cool. Also, this is the time to mate the converter to your cam and gear! Be absolutely sure that all of the seals and clutch packs function prior to buttoning it up. You can use compressed air and a rubber tipped blow gun to test them while assembling it. A leaking seal is the cause of a lot of failed builds. There are also inexpensive seal tools that will help avoid pinching and damaging them, FYI. There are some really good tutorials on u tube!

 

[Bucketman]

Trying to identify this th350. On the pan is Y1B08N. From what I can tell this is an 81 transmission made in Toledo, Ohio. Built Feb. 08 1981 on the nightshift. If that is true this should be a lock up transmission. There are no wires coming out of the drivers side of the transmission for the lock up circuit. Only connection I see comes out on Passenger side just in front of dipstick tube. Two prong male connection, I'm guessing has to do with the vacuum advance. So now I'm thinking someone had to replace the pan and those numbers don't identify my transmission. Only other numbers I can find are on the case, on passenger side, right on the bell housing, where the dust cover bolts on. 11S151193. Does anybody know what those numbers mean. I'm guessing it is part of the VIN but cant find any information anywhere. Help!
Or could this be a 1971 transmission?

 

[fletcherson]

Trying to identify this th350. On the pan is Y1B08N. From what I can tell this is an 81 transmission made in Toledo, Ohio. Built Feb. 08 1981 on the nightshift. If that is true this should be a lock up transmission. There are no wires coming out of the drivers side of the transmission for the lock up circuit. Only connection I see comes out on Passenger side just in front of dipstick tube. Two prong male connection, I'm guessing has to do with the vacuum advance. So now I'm thinking someone had to replace the pan and those numbers don't identify my transmission. Only other numbers I can find are on the case, on passenger side, right on the bell housing, where the dust cover bolts on. 11S151193. Does anybody know what those numbers mean. I'm guessing it is part of the VIN but cant find any information anywhere. Help!
Or could this be a 1971 transmission?

I do not know off hand what the numbers translate to, but there are no wires for vacuum advance. I think that is the connection for the overdrive aka torque converter clutch lock up solenoid. You need to know for sure if you plan on replacing the converter. You do not have to use the lock up feature, but it may be a nice bonus to save some fuel. I used a 700r4 and altered a map sensor and relay to activate the converter clutch with a micro switch override on the throttle for wot use. It worked ok, but had a tendency to cycle in and out at times when cruising. It may have been due to the cam. I think there are vacuum switches and delays that would have helped with it. There are various aftermarket devices available for this as well. I will go out to the barn and look at a non lockup th350 to verify the plug location and let you know, but I am pretty sure that is it. Most gm trannys have a aluminum tag attached to the passenger side towards the tail shaft with ID on it.

 

[Screaming Metal]

A good Hi-Perf. Trans. rebuild kit will come complete with instructions....plus the internet will be a big help. They aren't that bad once you've done a couple. The shift firmness can be adjusted with the #1 wich is firm, #2 a little more, 3 is pretty uncomfortable if your into street cruising....street/strip, not so much....usually will bark the tires if driven with authority on the street....
As you were told, as light as a bucket is, with a strong motor....you would not want to got past #2....unless your into bodily punishment....

Check around, as long as you get a quality kit....thats all that matters. I used to love the B&M TransGo Kits....haven't tried them years though....
They came with the drain plug kit....whichever kit you decide on, seriously think about some sort of small cooler and a deeper pan....these will add to the life of that trans....
HEAT is the biggest killer of automatic transmissions....

 

[fletcherson]

I do not know off hand what the numbers translate to, but there are no wires for vacuum advance. I think that is the connection for the overdrive aka torque converter clutch lock up solenoid. You need to know for sure if you plan on replacing the converter. You do not have to use the lock up feature, but it may be a nice bonus to save some fuel. I used a 700r4 and altered a map sensor and relay to activate the converter clutch with a micro switch override on the throttle for wot use. It worked ok, but had a tendency to cycle in and out at times when cruising. It may have been due to the cam. I think there are vacuum switches and delays that would have helped with it. There are various aftermarket devices available for this as well. I will go out to the barn and look at a non lockup th350 to verify the plug location and let you know, but I am pretty sure that is it. Most gm trannys have a aluminum tag attached to the passenger side towards the tail shaft with ID on it.

OK, I just got back in from the barn and looked at several pre 1980 th350's that are not od, none of them have any plug on them on the right or passenger side. I am 99.9% sure that is to the converter lockup solenoid from your description. 1981 is the year the 350 od trannys were out and that is the year of the only one that I have personally worked on. I would say that the numbers on the pan you decoded are accurate. If it is indeed a 350 od and has the mileage that you were told, I would strongly recommend that you replace the converter because the od converters have clutches in them and will likely be shot. I have used TCI and B/M parts with success but I normally go to a local wholesale parts distributor named Dacco Detroit and they have quality stuff and sell remanufactured converters for a fraction of the cost of a new one. You probably shouldn't mess with trying to replace the bushings (case to shaft bearings) in the trans as long as it wasn't burnt up (dark, stinky fluid) as a new to trannys builder. Most guys don't replace them unless they are anal like me about things. The counter guy told me that of all of the shops that he supplies in Columbus, Ohio, there is only one other guy besides me that buys them. I am not sure if that's a compliment or not??? The standard duty clutches should do fine, but if you want to upgrade, the heavy duty clutches from a parts wholesaler are referred to as "red" clutches. Don't be shy about asking the counter person about their products, most of them are pretty helpful (at professional supply houses) and know what other guys prefer from selling it to them. I hope that helps, Good luck with you build! Hell, you will be a pro after this one!

 

[Bucketman]

I do not know off hand what the numbers translate to, but there are no wires for vacuum advance. I think that is the connection for the overdrive aka torque converter clutch lock up solenoid. You need to know for sure if you plan on replacing the converter. You do not have to use the lock up feature, but it may be a nice bonus to save some fuel. I used a 700r4 and altered a map sensor and relay to activate the converter clutch with a micro switch override on the throttle for wot use. It worked ok, but had a tendency to cycle in and out at times when cruising. It may have been due to the cam. I think there are vacuum switches and delays that would have helped with it. There are various aftermarket devices available for this as well. I will go out to the barn and look at a non lockup th350 to verify the plug location and let you know, but I am pretty sure that is it. Most gm trannys have a aluminum tag attached to the passenger side towards the tail shaft with ID on it.

Sorry I meant to say vacuum. LOL, those two words, vacuum and advance, are hooked together in my head. Yes to the tag, back on the extension housing, but I wasn't that lucky.

 

[Bucketman]

A good Hi-Perf. Trans. rebuild kit will come complete with instructions....plus the internet will be a big help. They aren't that bad once you've done a couple. The shift firmness can be adjusted with the #1 wich is firm, #2 a little more, 3 is pretty uncomfortable if your into street cruising....street/strip, not so much....usually will bark the tires if driven with authority on the street....
As you were told, as light as a bucket is, with a strong motor....you would not want to got past #2....unless your into bodily punishment....

Check around, as long as you get a quality kit....thats all that matters. I used to love the B&M TransGo Kits....haven't tried them years though....
They came with the drain plug kit....whichever kit you decide on, seriously think about some sort of small cooler and a deeper pan....these will add to the life of that trans....
HEAT is the biggest killer of automatic transmissions....

I was told the same thing about heat. A shift kit makes a transmission run cooler and clutches last longer. However I'm using a pretty much stock 350 4 bolt main block. A set of stock 882 heads, (in case I can ever afford a blower) Dual plane intake manifold with a 600 cfm Holley carb, and a set of headers. Probably less than 200HP. Hooking that to a 3000 stall torque converter and the TH350 transmission, to a posi traction rear end with 373 gears. Haven't purchased the torque converter yet. I wanted to put it on a rebuilt transmission to make sure the fluid going thru it wouldn't ruin it. Tranny pan already has a drain plug.

 

[Bucketman]

I have a rebuild book and it shows the plug but it,s on the driver side.

my two prong connecter is on the outside of the case right where the solenoid arrow is pointing. Nothing coming out of the driver side.

 

[Bucketman]

Looks like it is screwed into the 2-3 pressure tap. I'm going down to the shop to get some pictures. I'll be back.

 

[Bucketman]

TCS switch! That stands for transmission controlled spark switch. They used it in the 2-3 pressure port, on 70 thru 74 models. That tells me I have a 71, not an 81 like I was told. Have no idea how it works or what it does. I'll be replacing it with a plug. Just like GM did from 75 thru 79.

 

[T-Test]

Books are amazing when you read and understand them. Learning something new everyday is just as amazing because you are doing something you've never done before and you want to, not have to.
Help from friends is also important when you get in a bind.

 

[Bucketman]

Really, this site has helped me a lot. Soon as I get paid I'm going to make a small donation, just to keep from feeling guilty.
The transmission book I have is the one by Ron Sessions. Had one paragraph on the TCS switch. Said it was installed in the 2-3 pressure port on 70 thru 74 th350. Remove it to clean the transmission casting. LOL, that's all I needed. Thanks for all the support.

 

[railroad]

I have not been following your thread on the 350 trans, because I know very little about them specifically. I was interested in the pic you posted of your frame. It looks very well planned and built. On your trans mount cross member, it looks like you might be planning on welding it in. I have an auto trans in my T and for some reason had to pull the trans. Fortunately, who ever built the frame, designed it as a bolt in. It reduced the work on removal to half the task. Thought you might want to consider that if you have not already. Good luck,

 

[Screaming Metal]

One thing nice, those trans in a box kits costs about $220 compared to $750-$1200, and you learn alot also! And you be proud of what you've done. All your out is the cost of the kit and some time, rags from Lowes/Tractor Supply, carboard from dumster....

I'm with RR, put another piece of angle on the back side of the frame, Drill holes for 9/16s Grade 8 bolts and you have a removable cross member....Its almost a must in these little cars.
Will save you some headaches later on down the road....

 

[Bucketman]

Like this?

 

[Bucketman]