Upgrade Thoughts...

[engine24355]

Okay, as mentioned in my spark plug gap post, I have discovered an issue with coolant in the combustion chamber. This is obviously a big issue that requires some work (blown head gasket or worse). However, I have a golden opportunity to make some upgrades (assuming nothing wrong with the block etc.). I have even been approved by the wife to make an upgrade and I have not even gotten the engine torn down yet (only partially). In her words "if you have to take off all those parts, why not put better ones back on?". I love this women! Anyway, I have been thinking about a top end kit to really boost the numbers on my 350 SBC. Right now it is pretty stock with a dual carb set up and a mild cam. I would like to go to a single carb set up and change out the cam etc. I am trying to stay on a reasonable budget here so I wanted to ask for thoughts from you guys. Trying to stay around $1,500 or so for this upgrade so I would appreciate any advice. How about it, what would you do?

Thanks!

 

[Brucer]

a set of those Patriot aluminum heads for about $600-$700, a cam and lifter kit with double roller timing chain ,a set of aluminum roller rockers.. and a new demon or holley 750cfm carb..

 

[RPM]

Everything he said but i would go with an Edelbrock carb.

 

[Screaming Metal]

I think you can't get any better than that........you can get some serious horsepower numbers with the combo's they've mentioned...........

 

[rooster57]

I need to borrow your wife for a week or so!!!

 

[engine24355]

Thanks for the advice guys. My only concern is getting too much HP for my stock low end (crank etc), tranny etc. I have a 350T tranny with a ford 8" housing 279 gears. I know this is not the best set up, but I want to make sure I do not get things out of kilter and break something. I was thinking about just keeping my current two carb set up and changing heads etc. Any thoughts on that?

 

[GT63]

I have a TCI TH350 w 3500 stall, and Ford 8" rearend with 3.55 gears and I'm running a blown 350 SBC. I haven't had any issues.

I'd keep the dual quad set-up and go with a better set of heads and cam kit and maybe a hotter ignition. I hear alot of good things about the Thumpr series of cams from Comp Cams. As for heads, I like the Edelbrock Performer or AFR 210 aluminum heads.

 

[RPM]

These cars are not heavy enough to hurt drive line parts. Now if you had slicks on it and was drag racing that might be different. I think you will be fine. To save some $$$$$$$$$$$ run the 2-4 set up you got it will work just fine.

 

[engine24355]

Sounds like I need to stick with what I have as far as manifold etc. I would like to use a Thumper cam, but also want to make sure the heads etc. all sync up good. That is why I really like the kits. I was thinking of the hotter ignition also, but do not want to get into rebuilding the whole engine. Would the stock HEI work okay with the upgraded heads, cam, lifters, etc? So many choices...so little time.

 

[GT63]

Sounds like I need to stick with what I have as far as manifold etc. I would like to use a Thumper cam, but also want to make sure the heads etc. all sync up good. That is why I really like the kits. I was thinking of the hotter ignition also, but do not want to get into rebuilding the whole engine. Would the stock HEI work okay with the upgraded heads, cam, lifters, etc? So many choices...so little time.

You could upgrade that stock HEI with something like this?

Extreme Output HEI Kit - 8502

The main thing to consider is to make sure the valve springs can handle the lift of the Cam. And make sure the valves don't contact the pistons by going with too much lift.

 

[tea tom]

you r3eally need to upgrade your rear end gears to 3.50 or lower if you use much of a cam or you will lose a lot of the low end, and maybe a stall converter.

 

[RPM]

Sounds like I need to stick with what I have as far as manifold etc. I would like to use a Thumper cam, but also want to make sure the heads etc. all sync up good. That is why I really like the kits. I was thinking of the hotter ignition also, but do not want to get into rebuilding the whole engine. Would the stock HEI work okay with the upgraded heads, cam, lifters, etc? So many choices...so little time.

The HEI is very powerfull, but will it fit with a 2 x 4 set up. They are bigger than other distributors.

 

[engine24355]

The HEI is very powerfull, but will it fit with a 2 x 4 set up. They are bigger than other distributors.

I have it running on a 2x4 set up now (edelbrock 600's) so seems like I could just change heads or at least change out to a Thumper cam.

 

[engine24355]

Anyone have any thoughts on just upgrading the manifold to a single carb setup using one of the 600's I already have? Seems like I could gain at least some bottom end torque by doing this. The question is, what manifold should I go with? Was thinking of a dual plan air gap from edelbrock. Like the looks of a high rise, but pointless unless you are turning high RPM's. I really just need low end for the driving I do (not racing). Lets hear from the experts.

 

[Hotrod46]

you r3eally need to upgrade your rear end gears to 3.50 or lower if you use much of a cam or you will lose a lot of the low end, and maybe a stall converter.

+1 on this. It's amazing how much lower gears (higher numerical) will wake an engine up. Going from the 2.79's you have to 3.50 or better will give you more "bang for the buck" than a cam or head change.

Everything that has already been recommended is good, but the gears really should be part of the plan.

BTW - Your idea to use one of the 600's you already have is good. 600 cfm should take you to 6000 rpm with no problem. I think the dual plane manifold is a good idea, too.

 

[Screaming Metal]

OK.....if you go with a air gap, tall, single plane intake.....you'll kill your lower rpm torque, but bring up your hi rpm horses.

The 2-4 if setup correctly will give you decent low end, plus will look cool and give good hi rpm performance, on the street.

A scorpion Intake or similiar.....will pratically fall on its face below 4800 to 5000. The tall single plane don't start pulling until about 3800.......at 5500 it gets pretty strong....at 6800 it starts waking up and when you hit 7000, its hard to keep it out of the 8500+ range because it'll rev THAT quick!

A C4B in a good dual plane......wakes up about 3800 and revs good, makes great power to 6000. Really all you need on the street.

Air gap dual planes......scarce....but there's some around......wakes up about 3800...make great power to about 6800 because of their straight intake runners....and because they have the airgap on the underside to keep the intake charge cool. Dual plane design keeps low end torque good.......

If you run the vaccuum secondary 600....will give decent performance. Now the same airgap high rise dual plane intake, with a 650 doublepumper, a warm cam and some 3.73's.......and you'll sware you just came out of a gun barrel!!!!! Its not really that radical, but things will be working together to have a strong package.....

It's all in what you want, how much performance you want or need, and of course....LOOKS. You have to match your parts to keep everything working within reason~~~~~~~

A mildly built blown big inch smallblock and a all out race smallblock will share the same end.....rocketship like accelaration....and the blown smallblock gives decent fuel milage, well over 550 horses on pumpgas and you can drive it everyday! And you can get into a blower setup for about $2800, new! Just a little food for thought..........

 

[engine24355]

Thanks for the advice guys. We will see what happens. To be honest, I would like to just swap the whole engine out with a hotter 350 or even a mild blown 350, but trying to stay on budget here and be smart about it. Who knows, maybe in the future.

Thanks again!

 

[Ted Brown]

If you want a GREAT cruiser, keep it stock, nothing wrong with the gears you have, if you just want to see what the difference is, try a real small (short) set of tires, that will show you what a grear change will do, and change the mileage as well.. If you like the looks of 2 4s, I would use the carbs off of a 409 chevy, as the front carb is closed off completely, no idle screws even, progressive linkage.. Remember a stock engine will give you way more botton end than you can use now, more will get you in trouble... just my thoughts on this... don't forget I am an old guy now.. hehe

 

[Hotrod46]

Lower gears don't always lower your gas mileage. As the duration of your cam goes up, the engine needs to cruise at a higher rpm to stay efficient.

Case in point, a friend of mine was running a 275 Dual Energy cam from Comp. 220 degrees duration @ .050 lift. He was running 2.40ish gears and the engine felt like a dog at normal speeds, but felt really good at about 80 mph. The gas mileage was about 10-11 mpg. He called Comp and they recommended 3.73 to 4.11 gears for that cam. He swapped the rearend out for a unit with 3.42's that he already had. The swap really changed the feel of the truck and his mileage actually stayed the same.

I had similar results with my 46. Went from 2.75's to 3.25's. 262 Extreme Energy Comp cam (218 @ .050). Mileage stayed the same at 14-16.

As has been said earlier, everything in your "performance" package has to be matched or you're going to give up performance AND economy.

Mike

 

[FastEddie59]

Hello Engine 24355, I was going to post a reply here, but it got rather lengthy, I will send you a private message and my number if you want to talk in person and ask any questions you may have, Eddie