Vacation cut short

[HAceT]

As I was about 100 miles from my destination the motor got sick. I noticed that it started running real bad after a gas stop so I figured it was bad gas or water in the electronics since it was raining. I stopped under a bridge and after several attempts to get her right I had to call for a lift and tow. I have a 400 that I am looking at building to replace the 327. I'd like to know what is a good way to go. I want power but streetable since she is a driver. The car was on the road for a year and I put over 14,000 miles on it. It does get driven. I have a airgap intake along with a 750 edlebrock and roller rockers stamped steel. I was hoping to use these on the new motor. Any and All ideas will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Francis Blake]

If your 400 is a small block the intake should fit. There was a change in 1986, so depending on the year of the two motors you may be in luck

 

[Ted Brown]

I am sorry that you missed finishing your trip, that sucks... I have used both 327s and 400 engines, I really prefer the 327, but that is just me...
I read where the new oils are not that great with flat tappet cams, probably not that great with bearings either?? They say that damage is done to engines in the first 3 seconds after starting, no real oil pressure during that time... crank till oil pressure then start.. Good luck with whatever you decide on doing

 

[Hotrod46]

Bad luck about the engine.

Most of the external parts off of the 327 should interchange with the 400. The harmonic balancer and the flywheel on the 400 are unique to that engine as the big engine is externally balanced. The 400 also has shorter connecting rods than the 327.

The 327 heads will work on the 400 if you drill the steam relief holes in them. The 400 has siamesed cylinders and needs these steam holes or air pockets can build up in the cooling system. Be careful about the compression ratio if you use the 327 heads if they're small chambered. The 400 heads usually ran 76-80 cc's. I would keep the CR 9.2 or less for street use with iron heads. Aluminum heads can get by with about a point more.

Considering the new oils, I think I would spend the extra for a roller cam. They're pretty expensive for the older flat tappet engines, but having a cam fail on new engine would cost a lot more.

The 400 isn't going to rev like the 327 without a lot of expensive lightweight parts, but you'll have a lot more low end torque. They're considered "baby big blocks" and if you want to spend the money, they can be stroked and bored to 427+ cubic inches!

Should be good for lots of tire smoke!

Good luck

Mike

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Edelbrocks are notoriously sensitive to dirt in the fuel. Did you make any attempt to clean out the carb?

I was driving my T to the grocery store one day and it suddenly started running super rough... could barely keep it going. Drove back home and started trouble-shooting. Took off the scoop and air cleaners (I have dual Edel 1405s) to look down the carbs to see what I could see, and noticed fuel squirting out the nozzles of the secondary carb (I have progressive linkage) at idle. I immediately assumed I had a stuck-open float valve. Pulled the top of the carb and pulled out the needle valve, and viola! Little shard of metal stuck to the tip of the needle. Cleaned it out and checked the float bowl for other junk, reassembled the carb, started it up and she ran like a champ!

 

[bobby6319]

I am sorry that you missed finishing your trip, that sucks... I have used both 327s and 400 engines, I really prefer the 327, but that is just me...
I read where the new oils are not that great with flat tappet cams, probably not that great with bearings either?? They say that damage is done to engines in the first 3 seconds after starting, no real oil pressure during that time... crank till oil pressure then start.. Good luck with whatever you decide on doing

just put the break in oil in every oil change and no problems. Thats what comp cams told me to do

 

[RPM]

Wayne that is awful, sorry to hear that. Pam and I wondered what happened to you guys.

 

[one finger john]

IIRC you have had recent problems with the trans also. When you get that tub filled with people, the 400 will make a difference. Have you diagnosed the problem with the 327 yet?

Heres to a quick and relatively inexpensive recovery, John

 

[HAceT]

Man if it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have any luck at all.....I took the 400 apart and what a mess. The walls are very ruff and will need alot of boring so I scrapped the block. I went to a friends house where I got the motor and he had another. I took it apart and the walls looks great buuuut the main bearing #1 and spun and chewed the journal up very bad. It'll need alot to fix. So for now I have a 400 crank that is good with a set of good connecting rods. I just need a block. The 350 block my other friend gave me had already been bored 40 over and needs boring again and I do not want to go 60 over. Oh well.... thats life and I love it.

 

[RPM]

Man if it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have any luck at all.....I took the 400 apart and what a mess. The walls are very ruff and will need alot of boring so I scrapped the block. I went to a friends house where I got the motor and he had another. I took it apart and the walls looks great buuuut the main bearing #1 and spun and chewed the journal up very bad. It'll need alot to fix. So for now I have a 400 crank that is good with a set of good connecting rods. I just need a block. The 350 block my other friend gave me had already been bored 40 over and needs boring again and I do not want to go 60 over. Oh well.... thats life and I love it. :scream:

What happened to the motor in the car? Have you gotten it apart yet?

 

[HAceT]

Not yet. I had planned on putting the 327 in Kats Rat Rod truck and the 383 (using the 350 4 bolt I had) in the bucket. But the 350 was no good and so I decided on the 400 and both 400's are no go. I just didnt want to rebuild the 327 and put it back in the bucket since I'll be taking it back out and putting it in the Truck. Just trying to save the hassle of putting in and taking out. I just got a call from another friend that said he may have a 350 out back. Not sure yet.

 

[Mike]

Did your 327 grab a rod bearing or a main?

If it was a rod, it's as simple as grinding the crank, sizing up another rod (possibly two, if the adjoining rod got too hot) and you're back together.

Have you let a machinist look at the 400 with the spun main? You could very possibly align-hone the block and be good to go with either a ground crank or another crank. You can also look into align-honing your 327 block, if you want to stick with it.

Don't move too fast here or you're going to end up throwing out the baby with the bath water. Keep in mind a 400 is at least 30 years old, so you're certainly not going to find any virgins. And that is where machine shops come into the picture.

 

[RPM]

Align honing and rod resizing is more important in a rebuild than boring the cylinders. They also make special bearings to put that 350 crank in a 400 block. Use the 350 crank and rods and the 400 pistons.

As Mike says take those blocks to a good machine shop and have the bores checked.

 

[Ted Brown]

just put the break in oil in every oil change and no problems. Thats what comp cams told me to do

Wow, will have to look into that! Thanks :scream:

 

[Mike]

Align honing and rod resizing is more important in a rebuild than boring the cylinders.

I don't want to go far as to say it's more important, but you sure don't want to overlook those operations. If bearing clearances are not right, the pull pin is already falling out of the grenade. But you need straight cylinder walls, properly finished for the desired ring set, in order to seal things up.

 

[Wild Mango]

I don't want to go far as to say it's more important, but you sure don't want to overlook those operations. If bearing clearances are not right, the pull pin is already falling out of the grenade. But you need straight cylinder walls, properly finished for the desired ring set, in order to seal things up.

If you gonna resize the rods great idea, make it even better by replacing the rod bolts with those trustworthy ARP Wave Locks and set those babes with a dial gauge not a torque wrench. Cheap insurance against tossing a rod, count on it.

 

[blownt]

My personal opinion - I think the 327 is the best motor Chevy ever made. I'd take a 327 over a 350 any day of the week. I doubt ON THE STREET you will see much difference between a 327, 350, 377, 383 or 400 in a bucket (within reason).

 

[HAceT]

Well the 327 is going into another vehicle so it's not going to the wayside. It's going into a custom built Rat Rod 50's Chevy style pickup. I am going to replace the bucket motor with the 400.