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White T II

409T

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We don't name our cars, hence we have the White T, Blue T, 409 T. When a good friend of ours passed he left the White T to my wife so she could drive her own car to shows, cruises, etc. At the time it was painted red with a tan vinyl top, eventually we took off the top and painted it white with pink flames.

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A neighbor recently put a Jag rear end in his T-bucket and it improved his ride so much that I decided to do the same for the White T, hence now White T II. I had an old 5" dropped axle from my previous Model A build, so I decided to try to incorporate that into the front end, and put a new (to us) Jag rear end at the back. Mounting the front axle would require making some custom bat wings and other custom brackets, so instead of trying to modify both ends of the old frame I decided to get a new frame from CCR (thanks Jerry and Diane). Below are some mock-up pictures of the first couple days' progress showing the Jag rear that I got from @lincolnuT and Bill Darr, thank you very much.

143429_re.jpg 143455_re.jpg 143517_re.jpg

Lots of parts are going to come off the original T including the engine and trans and hopefully even the body. The body has been modified numerous times and we may not be able to use it, if that becomes the case it is back to CCR for a new long body.
 
I thought that White T looked familiar. Is this your wife at the NTBA Nats in Carson City, NV 2017?

White T.jpg
 
You're a woodworker too?
 
What was the cost to plate the Jag Rear End? I have a rear end in the garage. Just waiting!
 
What was the cost to plate the Jag Rear End? I have a rear end in the garage. Just waiting!
$1481.00. I had everything except the center section either plated or polished. Also $288.00 for having the bearings in the hubs pressed out before polishing and then getting them replaced and 4 new u-joints. CCR sells a bushing kit that adds a little more cost.
 
The white T II is very beautiful; I,ve been toying with using an early corvette ifs instead of my current 10 bolt.
 
The front axle in the T II came already drilled, but I drilled the one it replaced myself. Here's a tip: If you are going to drill and chrome one of these, take it to the chromer and have it polished BEFORE drilling. Then bring it home, drill it and take it back for plating. If you drill first and then have it polished/chromed, the polishing process will mess up the crisp edges of the drilled holes. Don't ask me how I know.
 
There has been a lot of discussion lately about welders and welding in general, I thought I would share a couple of things that work for me, your mileage may vary. For out of position TIG welding, when it just isn't easy to use a foot pedal I have gone to a button control that fits onto the torch. There are many variations of this idea, some have wheels, some sliders, some moveable track, but for me all of those make the torch wobble while I am trying to adjust the amperage at the torch. The only one that works well for me is the button type. I got mine from TigControl.com but there are others on the market as well. Here is a YouTube video explaining what it is all about

and a picture of mine 093123_re.jpg
 
And to continue the thought, for tungsten grinding I use a Harbor Freight circular saw sharpener diamond wheel, Harbor Freight item # 98862. This is a set with a grinding wheel for sharpening and a stone for polishing, all for the grand total of $9.00. 093044_re.jpg
 
I had to make custom batwings for the White T II. The easy way for me was to draw them out in CAD, print multiple copies, glue the drawings to 3/8" steel bar and then cut them out on the band saw.
145843_re.jpg 145855_re.jpg145902_re.jpg By using multiple copies of the same drawing, each glued to its own piece of steel, I got exact duplicates of the hole patterns and perimeter design.
 
The way that button ramps up and down is cool.
 
My MiG has the wire feed control on the torch. Handy, but a pita because it’s easy to inadvertently change it while working. Still a cool idea on the tig torch.
 
I use the same TigButton as 409T and yes it is a little pricy but it works better than anything else in my opinion. The button doesn’t actually move, it just senses the pressure from your finger. The harder you press, the greater the amps. It’s amazing at how little pressure it takes to operate. I removed mine from the cover and used shrink tube to hold it to the torch. I don’t use it a lot, but it is great in awkward positions where it is hard to use the foot control. I wired mine up so that the 14-pin connector is close by, and it just take a second to plug in the other connector and switch back and forth from the Button to the foot control.20210612_161423.jpg 20210612_161243.jpg 20210612_161517.jpg
 
I use the same TigButton as 409T and yes it is a little pricy but it works better than anything else in my opinion. The button doesn’t actually move, it just senses the pressure from your finger. The harder you press, the greater the amps. It’s amazing at how little pressure it takes to operate. I removed mine from the cover and used shrink tube to hold it to the torch. I don’t use it a lot, but it is great in awkward positions where it is hard to use the foot control. I wired mine up so that the 14-pin connector is close by, and it just take a second to plug in the other connector and switch back and forth from the Button to the foot control.View attachment 20990 View attachment 20991 View attachment 20992


Bill, I think you have been holding out on me. That or likely my brain fade is on the increase. Is that an entire torch assembly or just a remote wireless amp controller. Undoubtedly my 1967 Lincoln 300-300 Idealarc Will not be a doable deal.
 

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