383 Stroker Question

[engine24355]

As most of you have read, I have been kicking around ideas on engine upgrades etc. I actually have a line on an unassembled 383 Stroker that the owner just wants to get rid of...wants to make me a deal. My question is, would this be too much engine for a turbo 350 tranny with a 2K stall? I can also get a 700 with the engine, but not sure my tranny mounts would work. Anyway, let me know what you think.

 

[akitagandy]

350 tranny will be just fine

 

[putz]

The 700 hundred has overdrive if you plan on trips go with that. Gas I don't think is going to a dollar again for a long time.

 

[GT63]

You'll be just fine!

 

[Screaming Metal]

Good engines....stout......a good quality transmission will work, UNLESS.....you really hop it up and are into big, long burnouts.....

Then put a transkit in it!

 

[speedkills502]

A 383 is a great motor my friend has one in his bucket runs great.

 

[Hotrod46]

The 350 will work just fine. I have one in my 46 (4000 lbs) behind a 383 and I do treat it rough occasionally. It has a shift kit and extra clutches, but you shouldn't need that with the light weight of a T.

The 700 would be a better choice in my opinion, though. The overdrive will give you the best of both worlds. You can run good gears in the 3.73 to 4.11 range and still get a nice cruise RPM. With the 30% overdrive of the 700, 4.11 gears will give you a 2.88 final drive ratio in 4th gear. 4.11's will give you a heck of a kick in then pants when you press the loud pedal. too. With the 700 the driveshaft will have to be cut for sure and you will have to move the rear trans mount, though.

BTW - You will love the 383! Go for it!!

Mike

 

[Brucer]

Depends on the parts.. I've seen some blocks need to be cleared.. Some rods you use you don't have to clear the block... Has it been balanced? In my opinion on a 383 there are some things you need to look at...why isn't it assembled?

A 6inch rod 355 is a strong runner also..

 

[Wild Mango]

Brucer is right, you really need to use the 6" rods in a 383 to get the angularity back to same as a 350.
The best 350's are on the 4 1/8" block with 6.2" Ford rods and a de stroker crank. A sweet revvin babe just like a 302 but bigger, and smooth like an old 327.
BUT as Carroll Shelby (Cobra) once said, "there ain't no substitute for cubic inches", and he was so right

 

[RPM]

The 700 would be a better choice in my opinion, though. The overdrive will give you the best of both worlds. You can run good gears in the 3.73 to 4.11 range and still get a nice cruise RPM. With the 30% overdrive of the 700, 4.11 gears will give you a 2.88 final drive ratio in 4th gear. 4.11's will give you a heck of a kick in then pants when you press the loud pedal. too.:lol: With the 700 the driveshaft will have to be cut for sure and you will have to move the rear trans mount, though.

BTW - You will love the 383! Go for it!!

Mike

Yes the 700 would be my choice also. I had a 383 with a 700 in the tub we had. It had plenty of low end with a 3.73 rear. It could smoke the tires very easy and yet cruise and get 22mpg.

The 700 has a lower 1st gear also.

 

[engine24355]

Depends on the parts.. I've seen some blocks need to be cleared.. Some rods you use you don't have to clear the block... Has it been balanced? In my opinion on a 383 there are some things you need to look at...why isn't it assembled?

A 6inch rod 355 is a strong runner also..

I am going to look at the engine tomorrow and see what the components are. However, I do know that it is a nice set up as the parts were selected by the owner who is a mechanic / hot rodder by trade. The reason it is not put together is that the car the engine was going in (roadster) was sold so he has no reason to keep it and just wants to clear out the shop. When I look at the engine I will ask about clearing etc.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Yea....take heed to what Brucer and WildMango said.......Clearencing on these motors are paramount. You have to check that the oil pan rail has been clearenced.......also that the bottoms of the cylinderbores and cam areas are cleared also. If he's build alot of 383's.....he won't mind you talking to some of his customers.........

I remember back in the good old days when we used to build these things putting bearings inside o bearings, playing around with the deck height, changing the rod lenths around....great bracket engines and dirt track........then I really got into those full tilt mountain motors......

 

[engine24355]

Well I looked at the 383 and while it was a nice set up it was mainly stock. It was basically a long block with heads and manifold along with some aluminum dress up parts (valve covers etc). The deal is 1400.00 for everything. Going to think about it, but was hoping for a little more than a stock 383. Does this seem fair to you guys?

 

[Screaming Metal]

Well Engine, to tell you the truth, I believe in my opinion......its a little on the high side......you can get a 383 kit and do-it-yourself alot cheaper. Theres places you can buy a full performance or mildly built shortblocks for about $600 on up.

A 383 isn't much more than a 350 with the crank and rods switched around with a couple of other motors. Beside the extra cubes....its how the engine derives its power.......leverage at the crank.....makes the engines characteristics so sought after.

A healthy 383 ready to bolt in and fire up, with good heads.....ie, small open chamber heads with a good 3 angle valvejob, 2.050 intakes with double springs, screw in studs and guideplates with a warm cam, good bearing (Clevite 77's), high volume oilpump, and good rods.........$1400 on up.........top of the line stuff is considerably more.
A good streetable 383 should go for about 2200 longblock with a warranty installed, a bracket engine thats gonna see 9's in the 1/4 will be about 6500-8500,

Alot of the time.....you can pick up a good tired 383 alky sprint car engine from a racer for about 750 to 1000 and its got all the go fast goodies in the shortblock. They race their engines.....when its gets tired.....they just sell it, (short block).....but don't get your feelings hurt if they don't even let you look at their heads! This is where the power is made and they're sporting very trick stuff!!!!!! These blocks usually have the BME aluminum rods and such.....so you'll have to rebuild it with the bearing and rings that it should have on a good street motor. These engines are setup loose so they'll rev freely, so its got forged racing pistons and a well used rollercam and lifters.........alot of bang for the buck for the folks that don't mind some rebuilding.......a little food for thought........

 

[Screaming Metal]

They Engine.......if the guy put in a good hi perf cam and lifters, ($120), and a set of street roller rockers ($100) and if the engine has a good hi vol oilpump ($45) and doublerow chain, ($45 to 85)......with decent heads.........it'd be a good deal...............

 

[t-4-2]

Over the winter I put a 383 Stroker in my T with a Turbo 350 and a 2500 stall converter in front of a 3:73 rear end. I run it pretty hard and so far no problems.
Go for it, you will not be disappointed.

 

[engine24355]

The cam is pretty stock too along with the lifters and rockers. I was hoping it would be more than what is was, but oh well. At this point, I have to decide if I want to repair my current 350 or swap out. Even if I repair my current 350 I am thinking I want to pull out and nave new bearings etc. put in for piece of mind then maybe put on some Summit double hump heads and possible a cam kit. My chief mechanic wants to sell me his race engine out of his dirt track car for 1200.00 (ready to run). Considering this as I know it has some good stuff in it, but it has 16 races on it so not sure what type of wear it has taken. I do know that his engines are bullet proof and pretty bad for the class he runs (IMCA limited mods). So many options, but pretty fun to think about.

 

[Brucer]

Engine,

This is where I would say bite the bullet and build a engine that you will be satisfied with. You pick out the components and have one of your mechanics assemble it, or you get a good book and torque wrench and build it yourself... I know its a lot of money, but you already have a lot tied up in your car....

I like a 6inch rod 355... Sweet and simple engine.. Heck standard 350 gm crate engine with a cam will run great in a T...

 

[engine24355]

Well, just got back from the shop and have decided to swap out the engine with a 355. Feel pretty good about it as I will be getting a pretty hot motor (for a bucket) all freshened up and ready to go for 1500.00 (including new rings, bearings, etc.). Hoping to have the new power plant in and running sometime in the next two weeks. Stay tuned for an update.

 

[Mike]

The drawback to a 383 is the stinkin' cast crank. Unless you spend the money for a good crank, that is. And if you're going to buy a crank, why not put it a 400 block and take advantage of the additional cubic inches?

Now a 3.480" crank in a 4.155" block is another story. A decent cylinder head and a long rod can make for a right peppy 377" motor.

Of course you then have the problem of trying to come up with a good 400 block. They're getting pretty scarce. We bought 3 dozen blocks a few years back and managed to get 10 out of the bunch. The rest were hauled off for scrap.

Brucer has the right idea - a crate motor. The ZZ4 would be more than plenty in a T. And they're not priced out of reach, either.