Francis Blake
Active Member
My axel has brackets for spring behind and radius rods. My question is can I use a 4link with this axel or do I have to use radius rods, appreciate any advise on this.:toast:
4 link
- Thread starter Francis Blake
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Francis Blake
Active Member
After all this time I still don'tknow how to post pics but my daughter is going to help me this week end. The brackets are made for clevises to mount on ,the 4links I have seen fit in a batwing that has two sidesand use bar ends
I have seen a lot of pictures of people using a four bar with only one bracket. With the heim or bushed end mounted to one side. In fact I think I have seen Goerge or Ted post a pic like that recently. I have never tired it, but if you look at Jim's picture, you can see that although the axle has two brackets, the frame end still only has the end supported on one side. Most are like that and it works fine.
You could always weld on a second bracket if you are unsure.
You could always weld on a second bracket if you are unsure.
Francis Blake
Active Member
Thanks guys thats what I was thinking but being a first time builder I wanted to consult someone with more experience. I do have some pics loaded in my computer now ( had to call for help on that ) my granddaughter will be by later to help me post some pics. 
GAB
Member
The pic that LKE is referring to was of a car that had a severe case of bump steer to the point that it was uncomfortable to drive it. It had hairpins and an unreversed Corvair box mounted below the frame. If you touched the throttle any more than very gently, it moved rather quickly to the right and then to the left when you backed off on the power.
We changed the car to a 4 bar to get the steering geometry in a much improved condition. Since the car was already painted and plated, the mandate was to do it with the least amount of damage to the shiny stuff. Thus we used the axle as it was. The brackets were 3/8" for the clevis attachment and the holes were already 1/2". A simple bolt up connection. The rear brackets for the hairpins were some Mr. Roadster cast aluminum bolt- on pieces originally and we were able to have enough room to make some plates with the right spacing for the 4 bar and bolt them in the original holes.
If I had of been doing this from square one, I would have gone with a couple of 7 Ga. plates to sandwich the rod ends on the axle and the rear brackets would have been welded on. Too much leverage on the rear brackets in the fore-aft direction for the smaller bolts to take in shear load for my comfort.
Sometimes, you just have to work with what you are given.
It later survived a tangle with a truck in the middle of an intersection. Barely! Yep, that's the same car...different paint though.
We changed the car to a 4 bar to get the steering geometry in a much improved condition. Since the car was already painted and plated, the mandate was to do it with the least amount of damage to the shiny stuff. Thus we used the axle as it was. The brackets were 3/8" for the clevis attachment and the holes were already 1/2". A simple bolt up connection. The rear brackets for the hairpins were some Mr. Roadster cast aluminum bolt- on pieces originally and we were able to have enough room to make some plates with the right spacing for the 4 bar and bolt them in the original holes.
If I had of been doing this from square one, I would have gone with a couple of 7 Ga. plates to sandwich the rod ends on the axle and the rear brackets would have been welded on. Too much leverage on the rear brackets in the fore-aft direction for the smaller bolts to take in shear load for my comfort.
Sometimes, you just have to work with what you are given.
It later survived a tangle with a truck in the middle of an intersection. Barely! Yep, that's the same car...different paint though.
Francis Blake
Active Member
George thats just what I wanted to see my axel is chrome so welding to it is out of the question.Thank you.
Francis Blake
Active Member
Thats what my question was about Lee my axel has the single sided batwing. Lee I believe Gordons car is the same way.
Francis Blake
Active Member
Lee thats what my question was about my axel has the single shear batwing and its chrome so I dont want to weld on it. Lee I beleive Gordons car is the same way
Francis Blake
Active Member
Oops sorry double post
GAB
Member
Lee,
You spend too much time hanging around airplanes!
Those things fall out of the sky when they quit, we just pull over and fix it.
Yes, double shear would be nice. Gordon's car has something a little different.
I don't like the looks of those big 5/8" bolts for use with 5/8" rod ends, so I did them this way and can then use smaller bolts as they are just keeping the rod end from falling off. Probably against the rulz but most things I seem to do are that way. Oh well! At least I did manage to get some washers on the bolts.
You spend too much time hanging around airplanes!
Those things fall out of the sky when they quit, we just pull over and fix it.
Yes, double shear would be nice. Gordon's car has something a little different.
I don't like the looks of those big 5/8" bolts for use with 5/8" rod ends, so I did them this way and can then use smaller bolts as they are just keeping the rod end from falling off. Probably against the rulz but most things I seem to do are that way. Oh well!
At least I did manage to get some washers on the bolts. 
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
You sure do draw purty pitchers, George!
I am wanting to go to four bar as well, but I was thinking I would need a new front axle to get the proper "bat wings" (I don't want to start an argument about which type of axle bracket is really a "bat wing"). If the set-up you are showing works well, I may just do that.
I am wanting to go to four bar as well, but I was thinking I would need a new front axle to get the proper "bat wings" (I don't want to start an argument about which type of axle bracket is really a "bat wing"). If the set-up you are showing works well, I may just do that.
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