Welcome to Our Community

Wanting to join the T-Bucket Forums discussions? Then sign up for a free forum account, today!

Sign Up

Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters                Spirit Industries                Southern Legacy Freight!               


Dismiss Notice
Thank you for visiting the T-Bucket Forums! This site was created in 2006, to provide enthusiasts with a place to discuss T-Buckets. Over the years, there have been many imitators, but this is the T-Bucket resource you have been looking to find. We encourage you to register a FREE account and join in on the discussions.

8 pipe headers for a Fad T part2

Discussion in 'T-Bucket Engine and Driveline Articles' started by Gerry, May 16, 2010.

  1. Gerry

    Gerry
    Expand Collapse
    Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2009
    Messages:
    2,496
    Likes Received:
    426
    Gender:
    Male
    PART 2
    Step 5
    Once we have one pipe in place it’s a simple task to cut and tack the other 3 in place using the first one as a datum point to work from.
    t-with-JB-(9).jpg
    I left the pipes LONG so that they could be trimmed once the T is more complete. In fact I really want the Top on to see what relationship there is between the body/top meeting point and the end of the header pipes, but that’s not going to happen so I will leave them on the long side for the time being.
    Exhaust-april-09-(5).jpg
    Once all 8 pipes are tacked, adjusted and correct, its down to welding them all the way around. As mentioned above each joint has a short section of pipe installed inside the header tube to align and strengthen it. Once removed from the T and welded, its time to clean up them up. Simple???
    Step 6
    As these are stainless and due to be polished I looked over the interweb (LOL) for pipe polishing things, to be met with a number of different machines and gadgets all of which were very expensive and use bespoke abrasive pads, again at a premium cost.
    This may have been done before but in case you have not run into it here’s how I did it. First cutting of the weld was done using a mains power file with a 3/8 wide belt. This tool is THE MOST used one in my workshop (thanks to my wife for the birthday present) and can do things nothing else will… in short its brilliant and now Ebay offers the abrasive belts at ¼ of the price of a DIY store its cheap to run.
    header-clean-up-(3).jpg header-clean-up-(2).jpg
    Before and after the power file dressing
    To give a smooth and good finish I came up with this:
    I use a bit of polyurethane bar left over from making some bushes and put 4 slots in the surface with a small rotary cutter. Drilled a hole in one end and banged a piece of rod into it.
    You can use this with the same power file belts (turned inside out of course) or off the shelf sanding belts; but me being a total cheap skate I use a standard roll of abrasive paper which is cut to length, turned over and using scotch tape reinforced to make a belt. I started with duck tape but it doesn’t need it. The scotch tape lasts as long as the abrasive so that’s a good thing. Also the rolls of abrasive are available in many different grades at a good price. I use 240, 400 and 800.
    header-polishing-(3).jpg header-polishing-(2).jpg
    Using this set up takes a little practice but its amazingly quick and efficient. Once mastered, you can ‘steer’ the belt around bends with no problem at all. In fact I only went down to the 400 to give me a surface suitable to put on the polishing mop. So far I have only finished one of the 8 pipes but the method is proven and works.
    header-polishing-(4).jpg header-polishing-(6).jpg
    A little bit of water for lube helps.


    If you look carefully you can see the ‘wrinkle’ where the weld was. Just means a little more dressing up and re-polish
    P5130002.jpg
    With all 8 pipes on its time to turn to the rear brackets. I always wanted to run without any rear brackets but caution became the better of me and I decided to make them. After all with the design I have you can always take them off and there will be no evidence they were there in the first place unless you look from underneath.
    The pictures tell the story. The rubber mounts are for a VW of some kind and came out of a parts bin at the local auto shop. They do need to be modified with some alloy brackets to get rid of the factory metal and make them T worthy, but they work just fine. The cross bar is ½’’ stainless and has been split in the middle (otherwise you wont get the rubber mounts off again). The collar was turned and cross drilled all the way though it and the 1/2’’ bar. Fixing is with nylock nuts and bolts to prevent them loosening with vibration. I did look at grub screws but vibration can be a wicked thing.

    exhasut-brackets-finished-(.jpg brackets-finished-(2).jpg

    exhasu-(6).jpg

    top-view.jpg
    Final step will be the baffles which have not been designed yet. However the bolts from the bracket underneath the pipes will also locate the baffles in the header pipe.
    That’s it so hope its been useful and maybe there’s something here you can use
    Gerry
     

    Attached Files:

  2. VegasBruce

    VegasBruce
    Expand Collapse
    VIP
    VIP Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2008
    Messages:
    2,110
    Likes Received:
    2
    Gender:
    Male
    [​IMG] Looks awesome Gerry







    ......and i took care of the other thread for ya. [​IMG]
     
  3. Lee_in_KC

    Lee_in_KC
    Expand Collapse
    Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2008
    Messages:
    1,307
    Likes Received:
    52
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Retired
    That is going to be a spectacular car when it's done! Heck, it already is! :rolleyes:
     
  4. Northstar T

    Northstar T
    Expand Collapse
    Supporting Member
    Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2010
    Messages:
    767
    Likes Received:
    24
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    retired bum
    Looks great Gerry! How do you hold the short sleeves in place whan putting the tubes together to weld? they always want to push down the tube for me.
     
  5. Gerry

    Gerry
    Expand Collapse
    Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2009
    Messages:
    2,496
    Likes Received:
    426
    Gender:
    Male
    Bruce.
    Your a STAR. Thanks
    G
     
  6. Gerry

    Gerry
    Expand Collapse
    Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2009
    Messages:
    2,496
    Likes Received:
    426
    Gender:
    Male
    As I mentioned in the first part, tube companies have a machine that will 'stretch or expand a pipe by small amounts. I just took one of the standard pipes down to them and they cut 8 short bits that fitted inside the header pipe and then used the machine to 'expand them until they were a tight fit. No loosing then down the header pipes they stay right where you put them. I just made sure the weld got hold of the inside pipe to stop them moving or rattling.
    I wish I had a picture to show you.
    Gerry
     
  7. akitagandy

    akitagandy
    Expand Collapse
    Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2008
    Messages:
    498
    Likes Received:
    0
    Gender:
    Male
    I sure do like the looks of the 2" pipes, You did a heck of a job on these they look great
     
  8. Gerry

    Gerry
    Expand Collapse
    Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2009
    Messages:
    2,496
    Likes Received:
    426
    Gender:
    Male
    Thanks
    That makes feel good after all the crap I have with the body swage line. I must mention JB my build buddy. His help has been incredible. We have been building cars for over 35 years together and between us theres nothing we wont have a go at. Hes the one in most of the picture where there is a guy in the background. Im camera shy... unless there is money involved .
    Gerry
     






Advertise with Us! Advertise with Us! Advertise with Us! White Rose Technology Ting Mobile Buy VPN


SSL Certificate