Aluminum firewall
- Thread starter Mustang
- Start date
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure about adhesive, bit I would at least use silicone to prevent rattles. Mine is just bolted and the glass was cut out.
We installed a polished stainless steel firewall a few years ago and we used double sided tape and silicone. Customer has had no issue with it.
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
My stainless firewall is bonded to the fiberglass body with silicone adhesive (not caulk!). No mechanical fasteners. I ran a 1/4" bead around the outer perimeter of the stainless about an inch in from the edge and stuck it on, held in place with tape until set. It hasn't moved in five years.
Hackerbilt
Active Member
An aluminum firewall is one of the things I plan to do with my car over the winter.
Just wondering what thickness most people run?
I'm thinking that 20g or something around that thickness will be a little thin and perhaps wavy...especially if I use carriage bolts around the perimeter.
Just wondering what thickness most people run?
I'm thinking that 20g or something around that thickness will be a little thin and perhaps wavy...especially if I use carriage bolts around the perimeter.
Indycars
Well-Known Member
I'm planning on going stainless for my firewall. For about $50, you can get 18 ga big enough to cover a TBucket.
http://mirroredstainlesssolutions.com/index.htm
http://mirroredstainlesssolutions.com/index.htm
Hackerbilt
Active Member
Wow! That's a mirror not a firewall! LoL
I'm more inclined to go with a brushed look or even raw aluminum for some reason.
I like the mirrored look on certain T's, but my gut feeling for my car is that it will push the look into a different direction. I'm leaning more towards a competition vibe I guess...although I never intend to run the car anywhere but the street.
The more I think about it the more I think I need something like 1/8" or 3/16" plate so the thicker edge is visible.
Regarding bonding...I guess something like PL Premium structural adhesive is a bit overkill and won't allow for removal if something required it at a later date?
I'm more inclined to go with a brushed look or even raw aluminum for some reason.
I like the mirrored look on certain T's, but my gut feeling for my car is that it will push the look into a different direction. I'm leaning more towards a competition vibe I guess...although I never intend to run the car anywhere but the street.
The more I think about it the more I think I need something like 1/8" or 3/16" plate so the thicker edge is visible.
Regarding bonding...I guess something like PL Premium structural adhesive is a bit overkill and won't allow for removal if something required it at a later date?
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
I have seen guy's take a abrasive disc to stainless and create a cool machined finish that is very industrial looking. You can also give it a brushed look like on the DeLorian. Just a thought (options).
meangreen
Active Member
I used .020" aluminum on my firewall. It doesn't need much strength; it's just for looks. I used a 1" diameter wire brush in a drill and a straight edge to give it an engine turned finish. I used 3M spray adhesive to stick it to the fiberglass and finished attaching it and the 1/2" aluminum angle lip with long 1/8" pop rivets. I also did the dash to match.
Wyo George
Member
I use 3M 5200 adhesive to attach stainless trim on wooden/fiberglass boats. It holds tighter than anything I have found.
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Looks good MG. Let us have a peek at the dash.
Lee
Lee
baddawgcustoms
Active Member
I'm doing an aluminum firewall myself but painting it, and ordered some model T hood welting material for an old school look and cover the seam between the aluminum and fiberglass. Planning on using it on the shell as well to finish off the look.
meangreen
Active Member
Sure, Lee. Here's the dash while being built/fit and the finished product with edge trim. It is made of .063" thick (1/16") aluminum. After engine-turn brushing, I coated it with clear urethane (same as the firewall). If you don't put some kind of clear finish on the brushed aluminum it will turn dark and is impossible to keep clean.
It is made of .063" thick (1/16") aluminum. After engine-turn brushing, I coated it with clear urethane (same as the firewall). If you don't put some kind of clear finish on the brushed aluminum it will turn dark and is impossible to keep clean. fletcherson
Well-Known Member
That looks good! I wish I had room for a top loader in my t. I like your cowl steering as well. I am relocating the box in mine for leg room, but the shifter is still a concern. I have a work-around planned. I measured for a t56 that I have, but the shifter would be back into the seat so I will likely retain the t10 and modify the shifter.Sure, Lee. Here's the dash while being built/fit and the finished product with edge trim.
View attachment 10729 View attachment 10730
Indycars
Well-Known Member
I like it!!!
I love it when someone takes the time to figure out how to do something and then do it themselves. Even if it would have looked better to have a shop do it for you, it's still better to have done it yourself!!!
Nice work!!!
What was the purpose of the 1/2" aluminum angle???
I love it when someone takes the time to figure out how to do something and then do it themselves. Even if it would have looked better to have a shop do it for you, it's still better to have done it yourself!!!
Nice work!!!
What was the purpose of the 1/2" aluminum angle???
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
I like the dash and the work you have done. Its great when you can stand back and say, Ya, I did that.
Lee
Lee
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
We used it to hold extremely heavy glass and aluminum frames in commercial construction. There definitely is a difference between brands, etc...It needs to be adhesive, not sealer to hold like glue.
meangreen
Active Member
Fletcherson - The cowl steering was a real challenge. I used the steering box from a '85 Ford Ranger laid on its side and fab'd the sector shaft extension so it would reach through the body. The steering column is from a '68 Olds 442 and radically shortened. The trans is a T-5 five speed from a '92 Chevy S-10 pickup with a short-throw shifter kit.
Indycars - I originally figured out how to do the engine-turn brushing back in the '70s when I was building Quarter-midgets for my nephews. I have used it many times since on various projects made of aluminum. It always draws a lot of comments and questions at cruise-ins and rod runs. The 1/2" aluminum is the lip for my hood and hood sides.
Lee (Choppedtop) - I'm a "jack of all trades". I do all my own chassis fabrication, engine assembly, bodywork, paint, wiring, and woodwork (if necessary). The only things I don't do are engine machine work and stitching the upholstery. I enjoy fabrication, so I don't buy anything I can figure out how to do myself. Sorry if I sound like I'm bragging; I've just been at this a long time and never had much money to spend, so I either did it myself or did without. If anybody is interested, the complete build thread on my Track-T is here: http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-talk/30400-another-build-thread-yep-my-track-style-t.html
Indycars - I originally figured out how to do the engine-turn brushing back in the '70s when I was building Quarter-midgets for my nephews. I have used it many times since on various projects made of aluminum. It always draws a lot of comments and questions at cruise-ins and rod runs. The 1/2" aluminum is the lip for my hood and hood sides.
Lee (Choppedtop) - I'm a "jack of all trades". I do all my own chassis fabrication, engine assembly, bodywork, paint, wiring, and woodwork (if necessary). The only things I don't do are engine machine work and stitching the upholstery. I enjoy fabrication, so I don't buy anything I can figure out how to do myself. Sorry if I sound like I'm bragging; I've just been at this a long time and never had much money to spend, so I either did it myself or did without. If anybody is interested, the complete build thread on my Track-T is here: http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-talk/30400-another-build-thread-yep-my-track-style-t.html
