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anyone make these bigger?

madmak

New Member
anyone build these in 2 inch? all i can find is 1 3/4 inch.

91633005_R.jpg
 
Ask Ron at RPM he'll make them any size you want straight or angled.
 
The ones I had on my last car were from speedway, before they went to that one piece design in the picture. And they were just a bolt welded to a peice of tubing. So if you can weld, you could make your own. Find a peice of tube with the right ID and OD, and the bolts you need. and weld it up.
 
What are they for? :confused:
 
Be careful welding a bolt to a piece of tubing. I know lots of people do it, but I just don't think it's a good idea. Especially if the part you're making is structurally important.

The reason is simple. The alloys use to make fasteners, are not formulated for welding. Especially the Allen bolt families and anything that's grade 8.

Just my two cents. Sorry if it bugs anyone.

David
 
RexRod said:
Be careful welding a bolt to a piece of tubing. I know lots of people do it, but I just don't think it's a good idea. Especially if the part you're making is structurally important.

The reason is simple. The alloys use to make fasteners, are not formulated for welding. Especially the Allen bolt families and anything that's grade 8.

Just my two cents. Sorry if it bugs anyone.

David

There have been a lot of them made that way over the years.
 
Agreed. Even Jim Kirby still does this. And I'm sure he has a Bazillion of them out there still running. He does it for spring perches and even the adjustable poly ends for radius rods and four bar links.

I only brought it up as a concern. Remember, I'm the big scaredy cat. In my opinion only, it's a less than ideal solution.

Fasteners are typically formulated from "free machining" alloys with higher Sulfur and Lead levels to aid in manufacturing the them at the highest possible speeds. It's the higher Sulfur and Lead contents that are the problem when you start to weld on them.

But I agree, a lot of good people do this with reliable results.

David
 
When in doubt, weld it with stainless (rod) anyway, the 13/4" hanger is the perfect width for a 2" spring, this allows for back and forth movement when the chassis moves up and down, as the shorter radius rods make the axle movement more, so this takes the bind out of the spring and hanger mounting...
 
Just to add a little to this discussion. There was a thread on the HAMB recently (sorry I don't have a link) about an end very similar to the one pictured in the first post that failed in the threads.

These ends are usually cast (at least the ones I've looked at appear to be) and I would be very concerned about that (think 3rd world metallurgy). If it was a forging, that might be a different story. The threads on these ends also appear to be cut , as opposed to rolled, and if not done carefully that will create a stress riser at the root of the threads.

There are a LOT of welded ends in service that are holding up well. Lots of high stress parts are welded all the time in various industries. As long as the welding is done correctly, history alone says that they will hold up.

Another point, if you're running a 4-bar then the end sleeves are welded to the bars with about the same weld area as the welded spring hangers. Nobody ever seems to question that application.

Just my 2 cents.

Mike
 
Actually, Jim does his a different way. Go to eBay and type in skinhead661 in the advanced search and view his listings. He has current listings for spring pivots.

Danny
 

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