Attn Lee

[RPM]

Is this what you wanted? Some of these might end up in an Ebay store.

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Looks perfect. Do I get a royalty if you sell some? Just kidding... hope you can make a few bucks on these 'cuz you sure gave me a good deal!!

 

[captainjunk]

hey lee i see you came over to the forum welcome from ( R/T ) lol

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Is that you, Al? Long time no, umm... chat!! How y'all are?

 

[der Spieler]

Is this what you wanted? Some of these might end up in an Ebay store.

These look very similar to the ones I had on my T. I think I bought mine from Speedway. They worked well but one word of caution. If you have a Speedway chassis or any other chassis made with .120" wall tubing I would weld them on. There isn't enough wall thickness to get adequate thread depth to hold them. I would have to check them every week or so for tightness as the bolts would loosen due to vibration. Lock-tite didn't help. If you are using a Spirit chassis or any chassis with .187" wall tubing (which should be the industry standard) bolting them on shouldn't be a problem as there will be plenty of wall thickness.

I had the same problem with my headlight mounts. The bolts would work loose. The mounts were made of aluminum so I couldn't weld them on. Periodic checks for tightness became part of my pre-drive checklist. I lost a couple of the high-dollar polished stainless button head cap screws that held the mounts to the frame over time and learned to carry spares in my tool kit.

P.S. Nice job Ron. They look good.

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Thanks for the advice, Steve. I do have a Spirit frame and have the headlight stands bolted to the frame. They have held up fine and I've not had a problem with the bolts backing out.

I designed the shock towers specifically to fit my front end set-up. They are similar to CCR's shock towers, which I happen to have a pair of (wouldn't work on my set up).

 

[captainjunk]

yup its me still haunting the chat and looking at junk lol ,

 

[Ted Brown]

As far as bolting them on, you drill the hole a size or so larger and weld a tube with a 3/8" ID into your frame, if you do not want to weld it now, make it fit tight, then run the bolt all the way through your frame, use Nylock nuts and be on your way...

 

[thomas]

How do I get a pair? How much are they?

thomas

 

[RPM]

They are $50.00 send me a PM awith your phone # and I can call you.

 

[thomas]

What is the height of the mount from base to center of shock mount?

thomas

 

[engine24355]

Great work Ron! Is it just me, or does it seem like many tbucketeers are going the regular shock route instead of the friction shock route? Maybe I am going crazy again, but just seems that way to me. I have always liked the regular shock look and function as it seems more stable, but that is just my opinion. I run coil overs on all four corners of mine and it seems to work well. However, it is not the softest ride in the world. Maybe I need to re-work in the future. Anyway, Ron does it again.

 

[RPM]

What is the height of the mount from base to center of shock mount?

thomas

6 5/8" from the top of the frame to the center of the shock bolt hole.

 

[butch27]

I've preached against friction shocks for years. This was one of the first things old time rodders changed. They went to "airplane shocks" as they were called then.

 

[Todd]

I read somewhere, and it may have been here, that the old guys would have used tube shocks over friction but their access to them was limited.

 

[Ted Brown]

Great work Ron! Is it just me, or does it seem like many tbucketeers are going the regular shock route instead of the friction shock route? Maybe I am going crazy again, but just seems that way to me. I have always liked the regular shock look and function as it seems more stable, but that is just my opinion. I run coil overs on all four corners of mine and it seems to work well. However, it is not the softest ride in the world. Maybe I need to re-work in the future. Anyway, Ron does it again.

I should go look at some pics of your ride, but I have also used coilovers a few times where that is what the customer wanted, so I leaned them into the frame center (wheelbase wise) to gain leverage against the spring, makes for a much softer ride, think (nut cracker) and you then could move the top mounting point backwards in the front, and forwards in the rear, just may do the trick for you too... and is way cheaper than buying new springs... Happy cruzin. :lol: