auxiliary trans filter?

[PotvinGuy]

Any experiences with auxiliary trans filters, like this one: Derale 13090: Standard Automatic Transmission Filter Kit Includes: Remote Filter Mount, Hose, Filter & Mounting Hardware | JEGS

The filter inside the trans is not much, and it is a pain to access. This aux filter seems like cheap protection for a pricey trans, and is easy to change.

 

[choppedtop]

Not tried one but great idea. I would like it better if it replaced the stock filter completely, so the pan would not need to be removed. My pan has a drain plug. I know some do not.

 

[fletcherson]

Any experiences with auxiliary trans filters, like this one: Derale 13090: Standard Automatic Transmission Filter Kit Includes: Remote Filter Mount, Hose, Filter & Mounting Hardware | JEGS

The filter inside the trans is not much, and it is a pain to access. This aux filter seems like cheap protection for a pricey trans, and is easy to change.

I didn’t use one of those, but I used a remote oil filter plumbed in line... it worked fantastic and was inexpensive. I used oil filters. Ph8a, I think from memory.

 

[RPM]

When I worked at the diesel shop, we installed them on some trucks. They seemed to work good.

 

[rubicon]

Question, does the fluid pass through the trans filter first or the remote filter? If the Trans filter comes first then most if not all debris will still be in the tranny.

 

[PotvinGuy]

In a quantum universe, the fluid travels thru both simultaneously.

 

[PotvinGuy]

This is a very simple diagram that I cooked down from the complicated ones on the net:

It's for a 350/400. Seems the fluid in the sump goes thru the strainer first, then is pumped to the TC and also to all the valves and servos as working fluid. Meanwhile the fluid from the TC goes thru the external cooler and filter (if any) and then is used to lubricate the bearings, gears and other moving parts of the tranny.

So the strainer might catch the big debris, and the external filter could get the small stuff before it gets to the bearings and such.

 

[Indycars]

.
I don't see where it makes much difference where the fluid goes first. After a few trips
around the trans, the fluid has been thru the external filter with a significantly smaller
particle rating. The filter in the pan doesn't stop much. After all, you don't have much
choice.

The trans is a completely rebuilt 200-4R with approximately 300-400 miles when the
filters were changed.





Installed a Wix Inline Magnetic Filter #58964 for extra filtration. It trapped a lot more clutch
material than the pan filter.











I ran two of the Wix filters, then I installed a cooler for the trans.





.

 

[fletcherson]

Good point on the magnet. Put a magnet on or in your pan, epoxy it on if it’s an aluminum pan. It will grab most metal debris before it gets into the fluid stream since most normal wear debris is from the clutches and bands contact with the drums and plates. This debris basically falls into the pan. The filter can then catch the less abrasive, softer debris from aluminum parts, clutch material, and any other dirt, although there really should never be any reason for anything else to get inside. Rubber lines deteriorate and contribute, but there’s not much room for outside contamination.

 

[fletcherson]

An interesting point here... the clutch material isn’t necessarily bad... I learned this a long time ago. Have you ever bought a bone yard transmission, changed the seals, filter, gasket, new fluid then have it fail? Me too, many times.... then a retired transmission guy told me to never throw the old fluid out. If it’s burnt, the trans is junk. New filter, etc... good, strain the used fluid through a paint strainer and reinstall it. He explained that the clutch material in the fluid aided the worn clutches. Now, I seldom install any transmissions anymore, if I do, I know where they came from or simply rebuild them. I do know that after taking his advice, I had much less issues with old transmissions failing. Food for thought.

 

[Gerry]

Been working with my bud in his trans shop for a number of years. All I can say is that when the filter in the pan becomes blocked the trans has had it. Friction mater in the filter means its shredding off the clutch plates..... only a matter of time in most cases. An external filter may stop it blocking but it can also get blocked easily as it is a smaller 'mesh size'; we have NEVER fitted one. Once a filter is blocked loss of drive is not far away. The best thing you can do, as pointed out above is put magnets in the pan. We normally put 1 or 2 extra in the pan of every rebuild. Mercedes have a thin square one which can be bought from any dealer for a couple of bucks. Buy OEM filters as we have found that pattern ones have a habit of blocking by virtue of the 'material' coming undone and being sucked into the pump inlet port.

We also have discovered that if a clutch is slipping 'flooring it' will kill the clutch in a matter of yards. People do this all the time. Well it started to slip and within a few miles I lost drive. Clutch burnt out, filter blocked.

Another worthwhile thing is, at the fluid change to flush out the cooler, as this also get clogged with fine debris.

Most of the grey metal debris found on magnets come from the torque converter and is normal with most transmissions. I have had 5L40Es (very common over here in BMWs and R Rovers) where the magnets look like a black flower they are so built up with TC debris. Just to add another comment over the last 10 years, only ever know one instance of a fluid change curing a problem. All the people who have one, because the trans is not quite right, come back within a few weeks for a rebuild. Its a waste of $200 or so.

Regular fluid change at around 60K is now recommended by ZF and other makers. WE advise our customer to do exactly that.

 

[Indycars]

Well I thought my post above was getting too long, so I didn't include the inside of
my pan and the magnets I attached with JB Weld.

If you put magnets inside the engine or the transmission, then they need to be
High Temperature magnets or they loose their strength as the temperature goes
up. I bought mine from KJ Magnetics, they are Neodymium magnets designed
for use in high temperature applications.

I need to correct a statement I made above about 300-400 miles, it's obviously wrong
when you see the 2nd photo below at 50 miles. It's only been 4 years, what's wrong
with my memory ????

K&J Magnetics: High Temp Magnets





I also converted the trans (200-4R) from it's original filter that takes in fluid from the top to the
700-R4 that picks up the fluid on the bottom.