Brake diagram pics

[rooster57]

I am posting these diagrams for reference.

 

["The Bat" out of hell]

Thanks,very handy for many.

 

[Wild Mango]

Very handy reference diagram. More good stuff.
With light cars like ours the proportioning valve is generally a very good idea. The residual pressure check valves also ensure the cups in the calipers or wheel cylinders hold seal against the cylinder wall and don't "weep" or allow air in even if the master cylinder(s) are above giving a slight pressure "head". So they are a good idea too.

 

[TEX-T]

Rooster,
I was wondering about using the stock proportioning valve. I have my bucket plumbed sort of like your diagram. Disks on front, and drums on rear. I put the check valves in, but I used the stock proportioning valve from a 79 Camero which is what my rear end is out of. Will that work okay on the Bucket or would it be better to use an adjustable proportioning valve?
Thanks,
Tex-T

 

[rooster57]

I have been told the adj valve is the best way to ensure the rear brakes come on after the front are applied. It gives you some adjustment. i am still building and have not made any adjustments yet. Post a thread and let the guys respond with their opinions.

 

[Wild Mango]

Yep with the adjustable prop valve you can adjust the pressure so the rears don't lock up, which makes a panic stop easier to control. Being able to see the front wheels means you can see a front lock up and ease off a bit under heavy braking while the prop valve means you don't need to worry about the rears locking and loosening up the back end.
The Camaro prop valve will be pre set for a much heavier car so the rears may well lock up before the prop valve even operates.

 

[der Spieler]

I got a new scanner today and scanned a Streetrodder article from their September 1996 issue on "Brake system Valves". It's a .pdf file so if anyone owants a copy PM me with your email address and I'll get it out to you.

 

[Ted Brown]

Yes the need to adjust the two "lock up" points is a must. Best done with the help of a second person watching as you make panic, lockup stops.. keep adjusting till all 4 tires lock up together, for the fastest stops, nothing beats, non rolling rubber. NOTE: that is on clean, dry streets, try not to lock them up on bad streets. Most stock parts are ment for certain size tires and weight of car...

 

[Ted Brown]

I have no stock valving on my brake system, I use two masters and a balance bar, 5/8" bore slave cyl. for the front DiskB and 7/8" cyl. w res.check valve for the rear Drum brakes... Works great for my ride, and like I said, over 200.000 miles on that Baby...

 

[Wild Mango]

Yep two separate master cylinders and an adjustable balance bar is the classic "engineers best practice" way to do it because you can adjust pressure between the front and back rather than turning the back off at a set point. If you got power assist you need two boosters, but in a car that weighs perhaps 1500lbs do you need power assist?

A lot of roundy round race cars have this adjustment from the drivers seat so the driver can adjust brake bias for varying track conditions, fuel loads etc. I have even seen a few 4 cylinder setups that adjusted front/back and left/right as well