Should the pressure type brake light switch be before or after the proportion valve in the brake system? I have started noticing it takes more pressure to light up the brake light after applying the first time. Not sure of the pressure range of my switch.
Lee
I will probably give that a try. I think this problem just started. I usually always check my brake lights as I back out of the shop, and just noticed this Saturday morning. Thanks for the link.
Lee
Do away with the pressure switch and install an electric one and you will never have any more problems unless you rip it off. I added an angle bracket made from s/s with a hole for a switch from a '79 Malibu S/W. Chevy trucks use the same type switch. Mine even came with rubber umbrella dust seals that keep water out when I get caught in the rain. I drilled two smaller holes to mount the switch to the floor of my bucket and adjusted as needed. Works great!!
Do away with the pressure switch and install an electric one and you will never have any more problems unless you rip it off. I added an angle bracket made from s/s with a hole for a switch from a '79 Malibu S/W. Chevy trucks use the same type switch. Mine even came with rubber umbrella dust seals that keep water out when I get caught in the rain. I drilled two smaller holes to mount the switch to the floor of my bucket and adjusted as needed. Works great!!
I agree, I have changed several pressure type switches to the mechanical type switch for other street rod friends. However, I suggest that you avoid the one that Speedway sells as it does not hold up well at all. I have the one that Ron Francis sells on both my cars and am very pleased.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I may try one more pressure switch, just due to where my wiring is located. If that don't work, I will replace with the mechanical switch.
Lee
My car is set up for the plunger type switch, and the one on the car doesn't come on till it is compressed all the way so I think something is in order. Will check Ron Francis and see what they have
My car is set up for the plunger type switch, and the one on the car doesn't come on till it is compressed all the way so I think something is in order. Will check Ron Francis and see what they have
The part number for the Ron Francis switch that I use is SW-42, check it out. It cost more but is guaranteed for life. I highly recommend it for worry free operation.
The old pressure ones were good....had good success with then, now, not so much.....
How many times have you seen a honda motorcycle without brake lights due to a switch failure????? Good ole mechanicals....
I have about 200 of them in a old cardboard box off old bikes....they are pull type, and the have a spring that once its reached its travel, will stretch. They make for good NOS activation switches also
Alot can se said about the durability of those mech. brake light switches....
My horde of the old style hydraulic switches is almost depleated (bought a box of them from Grainger back in the day)....so I'm now going mech.
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