Brake pedal/master rethink

A 15" rim is usually 16+" in dia. , that makes the radius 8" , you have a 5" drop axle + 1 1/2" shock bushing = 6 1/2" , that leaves 1 1/2" above scrub ... no problem ..
dave​

 

AHRA/NHRA rules do not require things like safety harnesses, roll cages and fire suppression equipment to mention a few? Though I've never had anything to do with either of those sanctioning bodies, I was involved with SCCA racing back in the 70s. Those kinds of things were required back then, and it would shock me to hear that the NHRA/AHRA were that far behind.

Regardless, I still contend that many if not most street only T-Buckets could not pass a racing safety inspection. NSRA inspection is a different matter, since it's intended for street cars, not racing. But I'd still be surprised to see a majority of T-Buckets passing the NSRA inspection. Should we all strive to pass the points of an NSRA inspection applicable to T-Buckets? Absolutely! Should all buckets that have not passed be removed from the road? Absolutely not!

As far as the endangering others argument goes, there will be a whole lot more vehicles on the road with greater potential for harming others than my little T-Bucket. I'll agree to take this car off the road the day after all cars are retrofitted with equipment to prevent the use of cell phones when the car is in gear.

Regardless, the whole scrub line issue in this case is nit picking. I've already said I intend to correct it when viable. Also, based on a correction in how I was placing the scrub line in the CAD program, my on electronic paper violation would be around 1/16"...with the violator being the edge of the front shock eyes. Those shock eyes have rubber bushings which would give more than 1/16".

The whole issue is very likely to be moot anyway. The chances of me being able to get this thing to driveable condition is way less than 50/50, and dropping fast. If things continue as the last week or so, I'm probably less than a week away from not being able to stand any more.

Did I mention that I'll not have a windshield?

 

The NSRA 20 point inspection is pretty simple to pass , I've got at least 12 years worth of stickers stuck on a cabinet door in the shop ..
dave

 

I'll be a mute.

 

Hmmm....I've not been adding the extra diameter to the wheels. Your equation needs to account for one more item...the bottom attachment points of the batwings. They go between the axle and the shock mounts. Mine add about 5/8".

 

Mine would never be able to pass as long as they do not allow "Does not apply" as a passing status. Windshield wipers on Brooklands aeroscreens would be just plain silly.

Also, with zoomies or lakester headers with just baffles would not pass the requirement that the exhaust be past the rear of the door.

 

No need.

Feel free to speak your mind.

As long as things don't degrade to personal attacks or profanity, I love a good debate.

 

Welllll...this whole power brake thing is turning into a nightmare. I've not been able to find pedal assemblies that I like. When the booster/master setup are raised enough to not hang down too low, it forces the raising of the seat that I need as low as possible. Also, at that height a Z shaped linkage will be needed because the pedal and booster will not be in line. Plus, the amount of space taken up by the booster and master under the seat make a floor under the seat pointless...necessitating some kind of belly pan. And that's just so far.

/end rant

 

If you are using hand controls why not have the master cylinder behind the dash? I have seen 90 degree power units advertised.

 

I've looked at those as being an option but without cutting an ugly access hole in the top of the cowl, I don't see how to check/add fluid. Also, with the ski slope shape of the top of the cowl, I'm not sure if there is enough room behind the dash. If I can not simplify the mess I'm considering now, I may have to try and find more detailed info on those.

 

Well this could be an option for your Ugly access hole. This guy put a vent in the cowl for air flow in the cab. You could use that to make it look like a vent, but is really and access cover for the MC. Would be a neat way to hide the cover. IMO

 

I thought about the possibility of repurposing a cowl vent, but that would be a custom fab item to. Although mine has some stretch in the cowl, not as much as that one...and mine has a lot more concave curve.

 

Lately when I've been cognisant (dealing with multiple infections for a couple weeks) I've been trying to refine the change in layout to accommodate power brakes. The brake booster and master will be located under the driver's seat. Last night it dawned on me that the length of vacuum line necessary for that location may or may not cause vacuum loss problems.

Are issues likely?

If so, what are the safe and wallet friendly methods for getting around the problem?

 

Just use 3/8 steel line for the majority of the length , doesn't matter if it's 4" or 4'..
dave

 

Cool!

Would Cunifer (copper nickel alloy) or stainless line work in place of the steel line? I plan on running Cunifer lines for the brakes and fuel.

 

No wild cam worries...stock factory cam in a little GM 60° V6. If I end up doing a rebuild, I'd probably go with a "RV" cam

 

Any line will work, the only reason for steel or hard line is to prevent it from collapsing. The length of it will actually act as a sort of canister, you will have pleanty of vacuum.

 

Why? Is it better?

 

It's easier to work with as far as bending and flairing and reported to be more corrosion resistant. It's more expensive.