Cheap T Project

I would start with a 7/8" o.d steel pipe.& then : Follow these directions. You should end up with a 1/2" to 3/4" strip on the backside of the pipe. This strip is used to glass the post to the inside of the body. Grind an angle on each side of the strip to help the fiberglass attach better. Before you use the chop saw , make sure the slot for your glass is positioned on the top side of the pipe (FACING UP ) . Hope this helps.

 

For the 7/8" o.d pipe you will need at least a 1/8" wall thickness. You can use 1/4" plywood to mock up your windshield. The plywood will help you line up your windshield posts.

 

Have fun dude !!

 

The piece along the top of the cowl is probably rubber weather stripping (make sure it will accept a 1/4" windshield.

 

This may work for the area between the cowl & the bottom edge of the windshield: Or what about this ?

 

Are you planning to use LEXAN for the glass portion of the windshield ??

 

Part of what I'm trying to do is build it like people did back when ready made parts weren't available. The thought process involved in thinking it through and such. I'm also amazed by people that can think up some intricate design and then implement it. My dad was one of those guys. He designed spray booths and systems for Binks and the designed machines to make the metal portion for mattresses for Sealy. All the other people I know that can do that are right here. That's why I'm here picking everyones brains for ideas. Just a weird quirk I guess.

 

Thanks for the info Donny. From what I've read, it depends on the laws in your state? Haven't looked into my state yet. Another thing I've read was more glare with lexan. I'd prefer Lexan if I could. I've worked with it before and have no issues with it.

 

My thoughts on posts were to get a couple lengths of aluminum round stock long enough to go to the floor, then cut a slot for the windshield ends. Possibly some rectangular stock for the bottom of the windshield. Another thought was using bar stock and carving out a shape I like and then polishing that bright and shiny. The other side of my brain says it's going cost just as much as buying something ready made and it's going to take you twice as long to complete. I guess a call to my local metal guy is in order.

 

I'll have a question about fiber glassing. I want to widen the top portion of the door edges and rear of my body by about 1/2 - 3/4 inch. Wondering if I should make a scarf joint and use some mat to widen it. I don't want it to crack along the seam I'm making. Then I would use chop strand fiberglass to top it off. Finally some filler to complete smoothing it out. Anyones thoughts would be appreciated.

 

I really like the idea. I'm looking at 7/8" DOM .120 wall. 2 - 24" long pieces for each side should give me enough meat to keep everything in place and have a 14" tall windshield. the lower piece across the cowl area I'm looking for a small piece of c channel. I might also use a piece of windshield gasket material. I'm going to weld the 1/8" metal to the posts and and go!!

 

Here's how i would widen the top edges of the door & body : The non stick plastic strips can be cut out using a pair of scissors. The small signs are (warning signs). They are less than 1'8" thick. I have found them at harbor freight tools in white or yellow color. They easily peel off after the fiberglass resin has set up.

 

If you have to install the non - stick plastic strips end to end to get your desired length. Duct tape across the gaps (underside of non stick plastic). Duct tape will NOT stick to the resin. Hope this helps.

 

Thank you Donny, Would you scarf joint the edges to blend in or just butt the pieces together? I'm thinking of scarf jointing the edges to give me some extra material to bite into. After it's all done I'm going to use chop strand fiberglass to fill in any low spots. Then Filler.

 

I would butt the top pieces of mat together. The final bottom piece , i would overlap the mat onto the underside of the door edge. I would use 2 oz mat for the top & the bottom. At least 2 layers on top & 2 layers overlapped on the bottom side. Of course you'll have to remove the non-stick plastic before you add the 2oz mat to the underside. If you want to scarf joint the top pieces of fiberglass , go right ahead & do so. Don't forget to use the non-stick plastic (polypropylene). The top layers of fiberglass have to be supported until they set up.

 

This is a polypropylene sheet (12" x 24") :

 

I also purchased a Honda del sol rack & pinion steering assembly from ebay. It's a rear steer set up.

 

Here's some photos of the signs at harbor freight tools : Sometimes they will be yellow.

 

Just finished with a whole paragraph response to your post and found that I was kicked off and response is gone..very frustrating...I'll reply again tomorrow.