Clothes smell like gas!!!!!Help!
- Thread starter CAB
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CAB
Member
thanks for the reply...i will give that a try. I purchased this ride already built...working through little issues along the way. Recently removed noisey gears it had when water pump went, I hated the sound it made. Timing may be off as there isn't a timing pointer on the engine, so I just move it until it sounds good. Anyway I'll let update later.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
What they said, and get some of that bubblegum additive for the fuel....makes sniffing that exhaust stuff alot more managable.....
Ya know those really wild cams that will burn your eyes and nose with all that pollution.... makes that stuff more bare-able.....
Or at least the flavor of your choice.....I told them I want a additive that smells like a Sonic Drive-in or a Dairy Queen....
Blast from the past....A&W Rootbeer....I used to live for those places.....
Ya know those really wild cams that will burn your eyes and nose with all that pollution.... makes that stuff more bare-able.....Or at least the flavor of your choice.....I told them I want a additive that smells like a Sonic Drive-in or a Dairy Queen....
Blast from the past....A&W Rootbeer....I used to live for those places.....
CAB
Member
update....gas smell still in garage without car running. Pulled the dipstick, smells like gas. Looking into carborator from the front of the engine there is gas pooled around the back two jets...nothing inside just around the bottom outside area. Below where the gas line is attached, about 1/2 inch of gas. Think its time to get a Holley.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Hey Dude...if you pull the dipstick and smell it and it smells like gas....you've got a SERIOUS Carb issue staring you in the face! (Bull Horns in the background!)(Offshore Airhorns Sounding). If not a carb issue, and you have a mechanical fuelpump, you might have lost a diaphram. JUST BE CAREFUL! 1SPARK AND YOU COULD EITHER BURN YOUR CAR DOWN OR BOTH YOUR CAR AND YOUR HOUSE!
Check for a leak around a weep hole on the lower edge of the fuel pump.
If your Lines are tight on the fuel pump, no external leaks on the machanical pump, your carb is draining into the manifold.
Back in SuperStock when we'd run QJets, we had to epoxy the welch plugs on the bottom of the carbs or sometimes they'd fill the crankcase or partially fill the intake....
check the fuelpump first since its easy to see. If all looks well, look at the carb....
Check for a leak around a weep hole on the lower edge of the fuel pump.
If your Lines are tight on the fuel pump, no external leaks on the machanical pump, your carb is draining into the manifold.
Back in SuperStock when we'd run QJets, we had to epoxy the welch plugs on the bottom of the carbs or sometimes they'd fill the crankcase or partially fill the intake....
check the fuelpump first since its easy to see. If all looks well, look at the carb....
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Screaming Metal
Active Member
1. Check your float level. Adjust to spec.
2. Make sure gaskets are good, replace if needed, tighten things to spec.
3. Make sure all the top screws and base screws are tight. QJet,Thermoquad, AFB, etc....
If you have a good HP/HV fuelpump, make sure you have it regulated
Might be something something simple....Jet might have unscrewed or something wierd....
Carb might need a rebuild, rebuild if necessary....
If things are not to your liking, go for the gold! Or Black, which ever Holley is your preference....
2. Make sure gaskets are good, replace if needed, tighten things to spec.
3. Make sure all the top screws and base screws are tight. QJet,Thermoquad, AFB, etc....
If you have a good HP/HV fuelpump, make sure you have it regulated
Might be something something simple....Jet might have unscrewed or something wierd....
Carb might need a rebuild, rebuild if necessary....
If things are not to your liking, go for the gold! Or Black, which ever Holley is your preference....
CAB
Member
I have an electric fuel pump. There is gas lying inside the carb just below where the gas line attaches. Around the outside area surrounding the secondary two barrels. Not sure how it is getting there. New carb is around $300, also need a good inline fuel pressure gauge/regulator to see what psi pump is putting out. Of course change the oil and filter once I fix the gas issue.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
OK, Back, got me some sleep.....Yes, the1405 I call it the QJet Wannabe, hahaha....naaa, it a good carb. Probably hasn't been cleaned in ages, and probably needs a kit. If you are gonna attempt to do this yourself, get a good quality rebuild kit, a carb 'Pot' w/cleaner (big can of carb cleaner with a wire basket, so you can ease the carb top and body down into it, completely submerging it.)
I myself, I have a dedicated parts washer just for carb parts by my tool boxes, I still have several of the old cans with wire baskets I use on my workbenches....I just order the cleaner stuff by the drum now....Could be the needle and seat or the float....
After buying a kit, complete dis-assembly, a can of the carb cleaner, etc....you could be spending well over $100, depending on how proud they are of the kits they have. Thats with all the 'other' little things you will need. If this is a older 1405, the throttle shafts are probably a little sloppy, so, you might want to check those.
If it looks pretty dirty and theres some slop in the throttle shafts and acc. pump hole, just go with a new carb. That way you'll have a good base carb that has been adjusted from the factory, and will make tuning easier.
Really and truely, you'd be much better with a 390 to a 500 cfm carb....and would run better with your smaller motor....and be more responsive to boot....
What kind of electric pump is it? Holley? Carter? AC? Is it a rotarty pump or a jitterbug special? It its a performance Electric fuel pump, need to gauge it to see what PSI your running. I usually go with anything over 3-5 PSI, you need to regulate it down. The cheap materials in todays kits aren't good with a good pressured pump.
I myself, I have a dedicated parts washer just for carb parts by my tool boxes, I still have several of the old cans with wire baskets I use on my workbenches....I just order the cleaner stuff by the drum now....Could be the needle and seat or the float....
After buying a kit, complete dis-assembly, a can of the carb cleaner, etc....you could be spending well over $100, depending on how proud they are of the kits they have. Thats with all the 'other' little things you will need. If this is a older 1405, the throttle shafts are probably a little sloppy, so, you might want to check those.
If it looks pretty dirty and theres some slop in the throttle shafts and acc. pump hole, just go with a new carb. That way you'll have a good base carb that has been adjusted from the factory, and will make tuning easier.
Really and truely, you'd be much better with a 390 to a 500 cfm carb....and would run better with your smaller motor....and be more responsive to boot....
What kind of electric pump is it? Holley? Carter? AC? Is it a rotarty pump or a jitterbug special? It its a performance Electric fuel pump, need to gauge it to see what PSI your running. I usually go with anything over 3-5 PSI, you need to regulate it down. The cheap materials in todays kits aren't good with a good pressured pump.
Mike
Well-Known Member
Shhhh! Don't give away all of the secrets!
I hate to think of how many hundreds of Q-Jets I've epoxied up.OK, we're getting into some gray area with your definitions of where you are seeing gasoline. When you say 'inside the carb', do you mean you are seeing gasoline puddling on top of the front throttle blades? Or have you actually had the top of the carburetor off?
If you are seeing gas on the throttle blades, then you have one of three things happening. Either A) your float level is set too high, B) something is stuck in the needle and seat assembly, preventing it from closing, or C) you fuel pump pressure is too high and needs to be regulated down.
Try this simple test. First, open every window and door on your garage, and set up a fan or two, to get the gasoline vapors out of the garage. That, or push the car out into open air. DO NOT WORK ON THE CAR WITH RAW GASOLINE VAPORS IN THE AIR! And don't start the car to get it out of the garage, because it sounds like you are filling the crankcase with gasoline.
Once you have the air cleared of gasoline vapors, remove the air cleaner from the carburetor. As you are looking down the throttle bores, have someone turn on your fuel pump. Do NOT start the engine, just turn on the pump.
Do you see gasoline pouring into the throttle bores? I suspect you will, which means you have one of the three problems listed above.
Once you get the problem fixed, be sure to change the oil and filter, because you do not want that gasoline-thinned oil in the crankcase.
If, on the other hand, you have removed the top of the carb and you are seeing gasoline inside the float bowl area, that is entirely normal, and is naught to worry about.
CAB
Member
without taking the top off there is gas around the outside of the secondary barrels. I took the top off and you are correct the only way gas could have got there would be either needle valve stuck or fuel pressure too high. I have had the car since March of this year but I think it was built in 2012. Always ran a little rich but this is ridiculous. So I think I am going to pick up a Holley but not sure of the correct model, I also have a AOD trany which Holley's documentation says is not compatible. But I found a couple sites that mentioned a kit to make it all work. Does Holley make a 4 barrel carb under 600cfm? Thanks to all for the feedback.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Well, Holley makes several carbs less than the 600cfm. You AOD trans don't have diddly to do with what carb you run....thats just holley trying to cover their collective asses from someone hotrodding a AOD.
How is the AOD switched? Vacuum switch on carb? You can run a manual switch for it, its not hard, several of our members here have done it. Just google it and you'll find a ton of info. Will shift like a regular Turbo 350 or 400 trans, then lock in the OD with your switch when on the hwy....simple. The search button here is your friend....
Also, theres several inexpensive kits on the market that accomplishes this....
Mike and I have been to a few bbq's,, along with alot of our other members....sometimes things get lost in the translations....
please don't burn your car down, its very easy to do in your situation.
All our other members with AOD's will step up shortly....
OH, by the way, Welcome Aboard!
How is the AOD switched? Vacuum switch on carb? You can run a manual switch for it, its not hard, several of our members here have done it. Just google it and you'll find a ton of info. Will shift like a regular Turbo 350 or 400 trans, then lock in the OD with your switch when on the hwy....simple. The search button here is your friend....
Also, theres several inexpensive kits on the market that accomplishes this....
Mike and I have been to a few bbq's,, along with alot of our other members....sometimes things get lost in the translations....
please don't burn your car down, its very easy to do in your situation.
All our other members with AOD's will step up shortly....
OH, by the way, Welcome Aboard!
Screaming Metal
Active Member
I was singing the little black fly song just the other day up there....Putting up a shop just outside of Montreal....
Screaming Metal
Active Member
If I'm not mistaken, the avail. carb sizes off the top of my head from holley are 340, 370, 390, 450, 550, I also think there is a oddball 575 or a 585 also....
ellis8500
Member
I have AOD tranny. It has a cable that connects to the carb's throttle bracket; no vacuum connection. Seems all the carb manufactures claim AOD won't work with their product unless you buy an extra part. Mine works fine just connected to the bottom most hole on the carb bracket.
CAB
Member
The edelbrock carb had a cable that I will use with the Holley....I did find a kit for attaching the cable to the Holley. So just a CYA warning...ok. Nice looking ride Ellis...I have lake headers as well. See you are running exhaust out the back. Does it go over or under the rear axle? Not much room under there.
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