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Engine Turning phase 2

rooster57

Member
Well i got some Cratex from one of my customers and just frehanded with no lines a sample of what it would look like . I think on a proper surface and evenly spaced it would look good on my firewall. I will do a test with the larger size first then decide what looks best. tell me what u think please.:wall::D:D
 
Where did you get the tool to do that with? Eastwood used to sell one but I havne't been able to find it in their catalog. I would like to do a dash.
 
Engine turned always looks good, but like anything else, it depends on you taking your time and doing it right. I have no doubt you'll get it looking sweet, if that's the way you decide to go.
 
VERY nice Rooster.

Jim
 
Thanks guys uniformity seems to be the key here i will practice more before i have the guts to do the firewall.
 
Rooster, good work on the first try ! I notice some of your spacings are off, before you try the firewall, you might want to use a long measured backstop. Possibly a tape measure blade fastened to a long board, somethin to give you a stop referance each move. Put a mark on your material so you can tell how much you move each time.... Same with the side, you'll need to move both directions.
As for the firewall, you might want to leave it sheared rectangle and do the turning, It will be easyer to keep the lines straight, then after your done, just cut it to shape of the template...Just a thought.
Good luck, this is not an easy task ! "BH"
 
Looking good! Its alot of tedious work isnt it?
I made a jig to bolt into my drill press out of a board with a pile of lines on it to help get the spacing on it. I believe I used a 1/2 inch sized modified bolt head and all my marks were 1/2 inch. I used a steel yardstick to keep a straight line as a backstop and the distance control left and right..
The bolted in board with the lines you laid out on it give you a control in and out of the throat of the drill press, the ruler gives you a control left and right. Start in the upper right corner of the piece on the top row and work your way to the left. One row at a time...I think I did my math to get my overlap right..It takes practice to do it right, just think it thru!! best of luck!! Paul
 
Thanks guys if i mess it up it wont be because i didnt have enough encouragement.:):D:D
I might cheat and have our programer program a can cycle on our moriseiki mill at the office and just bolt it to the table and let mr Mori do all the sypherin. :wall::rolleyes::cry:
 
rooster57 said:
Thanks guys if i mess it up it wont be because i didnt have enough encouragement.:):D:D
I might cheat and have our programer program a can cycle on our moriseiki mill at the office and just bolt it to the table and let mr Mori do all the sypherin. :wall::rolleyes::cry:
I think if i have access to a cnc mill thats what i would do.
 
ditto! If ya got a mill by all means do so! lolol
My way it will take all day to do a dash. But ill gaurantee it will be old skool cuz thats how it was done...You will not get a piece that fits a firewall into a drill press, they just dont have the depth..
 
We sell and service Mori mills and lathes so we always have a couple on display at the office all the time. Or i will just go to one of my customers with my tooling and program and shazam. I just need to make sure the tool will last for the entire process so the desighn is uniform.
 
norseman said:
ditto! If ya got a mill by all means do so! lolol
My way it will take all day to do a dash. But ill gaurantee it will be old skool cuz thats how it was done...You will not get a piece that fits a firewall into a drill press, they just dont have the depth..
here is a trick I learned a long time ago it works especially well for table top drill presses.take the head off your press then mount the base and shaft upside down to your shop cieling (this was in a basement shop)now remount your drill press head onto the upside down shaft so the quill still faces down just like it would normaly be.you now have a clear area under the drill press that can take any size work just set up a table to work on.You might have to alter this plan to fit your tools and shop but it does work great !with the right height bench under the press you can turn any size panels you want.This could also be done with one of those cheap drillpress fixtures that makes a hand drill into a drill press just make some sort of overhead support to hold the base
 
this is the panel for my t. i started in the middle and did 1/4 of the panel at a time working from the center out with a 1/2"dowel in my drill press. overlapping 1/4" and staggered the rows 1/4". tuned out awesome in the sunlight.

27rat003Small.jpg


for those of you with brass pieces on your car....this looks good on brass too!!!

Ron
 
Youngster said:
this is the panel for my t. i started in the middle and did 1/4 of the panel at a time working from the center out with a 1/2"dowel in my drill press. overlapping 1/4" and staggered the rows 1/4". tuned out awesome in the sunlight.

27rat003Small.jpg


for those of you with brass pieces on your car....this looks good on brass too!!!

Ron

Ron,

You need to take and share more pictures of your project!!!!!!!!!!! (I'm yelling at you now :mad:)

I know I would learn something. ;) From just the few pictures you've shared so far, I just love the look of your car, and I'm sure others would like to see more of it as well. :cool:

Take and share one picture a week. That won't take much time. Any angle you want. We don't care. :rofl:

I'm done being weird now......

David
 
I could hear music playing softly there at the end of your post REX ROD.
 
rooster57 said:
I could hear music playing softly there at the end of your post REX ROD.

And the narator is Rod Serling.:razz:
 
thanks david...customer cars and some health issues have slow the project to a stopp for now. hope to get back to it soon.

Ron
 

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