Lug Nut Studs

[jbisme]

I need a quick answer or several quick answers. My t-tub project is using the front suspension of a 66 F100. This tub is going to be something like a hi-boy. I'm leaving the brakes as drum, and I just replaced all the lug nut studs and nuts. I went to tighten all of them to 100 lbs. and two of them didn't take and started spinning. I even used a special too to drive them in strait, so they are seated in the holes, but apparently just enough too small for the holes. Now I can't get them to come lose or tighten up fully. What I'm wondering is, can I take out the spindle's cotter pin, king nut, and bearing to get access to those two studs? I'm thinking that would let the wheel, drum and spindle come off as one piece. Am I wrong? If so, how should I fix this problem?

The plan would be to weld these two bastards in and move on to building my frame.

 

[Ted Brown]

You seem to already have a good plan.. hehe Ride safe

 

[putz]

I have tacked studs in before to keep from spinning. It sucks getting a wheel off when the stud is spinning. Maybe that is why European cars have bolts instead.

 

[72442conv]

Spot welding them will do the trick.

 

[butch27]

Aren't some of these Cast Iron? Which is hard as heck to get a weld to stick to .

 

[putz]

You can tack weld to axles your best bet is either Mig or tig weld them and just tack them. You don't want to heat the axle and warp it or make it brittle.

 

[jbisme]

Great, I've got a flux core MIG, so I'll tack them and get with it. My project is headed to a friend's house who has a metal fabrication business. He is going to teach me how to build this frame properly. I should have something road worthy just in time for winter. I'll get pics and post them as it goes.

 

[railroad]

Do all of them, no need in finding out later, they need it also.

 

[jbisme]

Do all of them, no need in finding out later, they need it also.

I was thinking the same thing.

The old truck frame is at my friends house. He and I discussed what I have in mind and how I want it to look. For example, it will be every bit of 4 feet shorter and it will still use the origional leaf springs. Now all I need to do is save up some money and get with it. Some exciting times are just ahead. The actual build will probably begin after Labor Day. I want to have money piled up so I don't stall out and lose interest. It is great to have a plan and know it is going to work.

Oh and a little tip. If you plan to pull a vehicle by tow bar, lock the steering wheel. 66 F100s do not have a way to lock the steering, and my first attempt to pull it was not cool. The steering kept turning all the way to one side or the other. I had to build a bracket to lock the steering from moving before I could pull it anywhere. Uhaul claimed their car trailers and tow dollies was too narrow for the job and my friend's trailer was so low to the ground that I would not have been able to get it in my yard. It was a new learning experience to say the least.