Need paint advice

[gfigms]

Getting the body ready is a chore, then it gets to the primer\paint issue. Reading different forums on the internet can drive a person to drink! He is my question(s):

Bare fiberglass, scuffed and somewhat smooth. Some say an epoxy primer must be put down first, other say only a primer surfacer needs to go on next. Some say some sort of sealer has to go between primer and base coat, others say a sealer is not needed. :rofl: :thumb:

Here are my "plans": I am using PPG all the way ...

1) Block sand bare fiberglass with 120
2) Perform any body work needed, filler, etc.
3) Block sand with 180
4) Apply MP182 primer surfacer
5) Block sand with 180-220
6) Apply MP182 primer surfacer again
7) Block sand with 400-600
8) Apply base coat (color)
9) Sand with 1200 ... apply additional base coats as needed
10) Apply graphics ... in this case, a flame masking template
11) Apply flames ... white pearl mixed with clear
12) Apply clear coat(s)
13) Final sand with 2000-2500 before buffing

Now, between steps 3 and 4, some say apply epoxy primer ... what have you other guys done?

Between steps 9 and 10 some say apply "sealer" before attempting any graphics ... to keep the graphics from running or the masking pulling any base coat up ... "sealer" to me would be just a thin clear coat ... what have others done?

It is going to be mid 60s next week here in North Texas and I really want to get this going.

 

[GT63]

Getting the body ready is a chore, then it gets to the primer\paint issue. Reading different forums on the internet can drive a person to drink! He is my question(s):

Bare fiberglass, scuffed and somewhat smooth. Some say an epoxy primer must be put down first, other say only a primer surfacer needs to go on next. Some say some sort of sealer has to go between primer and base coat, others say a sealer is not needed. :rofl: :thumb:

Here are my "plans": I am using PPG all the way ...

1) Block sand bare fiberglass with 120
2) Perform any body work needed, filler, etc.
3) Block sand with 180
4) Apply MP182 primer surfacer
5) Block sand with 180-220
6) Apply MP182 primer surfacer again
7) Block sand with 400-600
8) Apply base coat (color)
9) Sand with 1200 ... apply additional base coats as needed
10) Apply graphics ... in this case, a flame masking template
11) Apply flames ... white pearl mixed with clear
12) Apply clear coat(s)
13) Final sand with 2000-2500 before buffing

Now, between steps 3 and 4, some say apply epoxy primer ... what have you other guys done?

Between steps 9 and 10 some say apply "sealer" before attempting any graphics ... to keep the graphics from running or the masking pulling any base coat up ... "sealer" to me would be just a thin clear coat ... what have others done?

It is going to be mid 60s next week here in North Texas and I really want to get this going.

When I did mine I followed the instructions of a local bodyman and T-bucket builder.

Sanded the gel coat
sprayed primer
sanded until smooth
then sprayed guide coat and sanded fix low\high spots
then sprayed primer sealer
then wet sanded
then sprayed base coat
applied graphics
applied clear, several coats
wet sanded and polished

It turned out OK I guess. :rofl:

 

[EX JUNK]

Getting the body ready is a chore, then it gets to the primer\paint issue. Reading different forums on the internet can drive a person to drink! He is my question(s):

Bare fiberglass, scuffed and somewhat smooth. Some say an epoxy primer must be put down first, other say only a primer surfacer needs to go on next. Some say some sort of sealer has to go between primer and base coat, others say a sealer is not needed. :rofl: :thumb:

Here are my "plans": I am using PPG all the way ...

1) Block sand bare fiberglass with 120
2) Perform any body work needed, filler, etc.
3) Block sand with 180
4) Apply MP182 primer surfacer
5) Block sand with 180-220
6) Apply MP182 primer surfacer again
7) Block sand with 400-600
8) Apply base coat (color)
9) Sand with 1200 ... apply additional base coats as needed
10) Apply graphics ... in this case, a flame masking template
11) Apply flames ... white pearl mixed with clear
12) Apply clear coat(s)
13) Final sand with 2000-2500 before buffing

Now, between steps 3 and 4, some say apply epoxy primer ... what have you other guys done?

Between steps 9 and 10 some say apply "sealer" before attempting any graphics ... to keep the graphics from running or the masking pulling any base coat up ... "sealer" to me would be just a thin clear coat ... what have others done?

It is going to be mid 60s next week here in North Texas and I really want to get this going.

I use PPG but am not familiar with the MP182 primer. I much prefer the K36 High Build Primer. With that you can easily fill sand scratches and small pits in the surface which can easily be dry sanded with 220 then wet sanded with 400. You could then use any one of the many colored DP Series Primer Surfacers that come closest to your intended base coat. That way you will be assured of a good even finish with the least amount of problems. One very important step to ALWAYS remember, you must THOROUGHLY wipe down with DX330 to remove any contaminates between each and every step.

Unless you have some real screw ups in the base, I would not advise sanding before clearing, especially if it is a metallic base. Usually you apply the clear as soon as you are done shooting the base, after allowing the proper dry time of course. If you must wait for another time to clear, all you need to do is lightly go over everything with a Scotch Brite Pad and then DX330 and shoot.

Jim

 

[409T]

There are probably as many ways to do this as there are people doing it. I'll give you the way I always use. It works, I have eye catching paint jobs this way, but still this is only one idea out of many. Also I am using only PPG products. There are plenty of others on the market that will work just as well, maybe even better. I would not recommend mixing manufacturers however, although I know people who do. Just remember that the guy who tells you that is is alright to mix brand A with brand B probably isn't going to come to your house to help you sand everything off when it doesn't work.

1. Scuff up the body with 80 - 120 grit, you choose
2. Filler and sand, primer (PPG NCP-271) and sand, guide coat and sand, etc. until satisfied.
3. Spray one last coat of NCP-271, just heavy enough for full coverage. DO NOT sand after spraying.
4. Spray light coats of base color until you get full coverage. (PPG DBC). Emphasis on LIGHT coats. No runs allowed.
5. Spray pearl or whatever if you are using a 3 step process, light coats, no runs.
6. Spray a coat of PPG mid-coat to protect what you have done so far. Skip this if you are going straight to the final clear coat next.
7. Mask and spray flames, etc.
8. Spray clear coat (PPG DCU 2021). I shoot steps 3-6 on one day, flames and 2 clear coats on second day, and shoot 2 more clear coats the third day.
9. Sand with 1500 until there are no blemishes.
10. Buff with gray foam pads and 3M compound 6060, 6062, and finally 6064 on a dark finish, or equivalent on a light finish. Don't mix pads. Use only one for each compound, and wipe the paint clean of previous material before applying the next step.

Notice that there was no sanding from step 3-9.

 

[gfigms]

When I did mine I followed the instructions of a local bodyman and T-bucket builder.

Sanded the gel coat
sprayed primer
sanded until smooth
then sprayed guide coat and sanded fix low\high spots
then sprayed primer sealer
then wet sanded
then sprayed base coat
applied graphics
applied clear, several coats
wet sanded and polished

It turned out OK I guess. :thumb:

I've seen your car, and yes it turned out great! Maybe I am overthinking this thing. What did you use for a primer sealer?

 

[gfigms]

6. Spray a coat of PPG mid-coat to protect what you have done so far.

What would you use for the mid-coat? Am I getting hungup on terminology?

 

[409T]

6. Spray a coat of PPG mid-coat to protect what you have done so far.

What would you use for the mid-coat? Am I getting hungup on terminology?

Yes, I forgot the DX 330. Thanks, EX JUNK.

The mid-coat I use is KustomShop Mid-Coat. I didn't want too mention a different brand from PPG and contradict myself, but the PPG dealer recommended this to me a long time ago, and I have been using it ever since. It is sort of a watered down clear coat, which protects the previous base coats from the glue on the masking tape or whatever materials you use to mask or layout for graphics.

Jeff

 

[GT63]

I've seen your car, and yes it turned out great! Maybe I am overthinking this thing. What did you use for a primer sealer?

I used all PPG stuff from English Color in Lewisville TX. They told me what to use.

 

[gfigms]

Just got off the phone with the English Color factory rep who has been custom painting cars for 30 years. Here is what "we" worked out:

Steps to painting T Bucket
Using PPG Single stage Urethane … not base coat\clear coat
1. Scuff fiberglass with 80 or 100 grit
2. Block sand with 120 grit
3. Add filler, perform bodywork as needed
4. Block sand with 180 grit
5. Apply MP182 primer surfacer
6. Block sand with 180 to 220 grit
7. Apply additional MP182 if needed – block sand with 400 to 600 grit
8. Apply base coat (color) – as many coats as desired or necessary
9. Let base coat dry for one week - avoids need for midcoat\sealer
10. Apply masking flame templates
11. Scuff lightly area where flames to be painted with gray Scotch-Brite pad
12. Apply flames – clear coat with dash of PRL95 Bright White Pearl (these will be ghost flames)
13. Wait at least 1 hour
14. Apply clear coat(s) – as many coats as desired
15. Final sand with 2000 to 2500 grit before buffing

 

[Keeper]

Just got off the phone with the English Color factory rep who has been custom painting cars for 30 years. Here is what "we" worked out:

Steps to painting T Bucket
Using PPG Single stage Urethane … not base coat\clear coat
1. Scuff fiberglass with 80 or 100 grit
2. Block sand with 120 grit
3. Add filler, perform bodywork as needed
4. Block sand with 180 grit
5. Apply MP182 primer surfacer
6. Block sand with 180 to 220 grit
7. Apply additional MP182 if needed – block sand with 400 to 600 grit
8. Apply base coat (color) – as many coats as desired or necessary
9. Let base coat dry for one week - avoids need for midcoat\sealer
10. Apply masking flame templates
11. Scuff lightly area where flames to be painted with gray Scotch-Brite pad
12. Apply flames – clear coat with dash of PRL95 Bright White Pearl (these will be ghost flames)
13. Wait at least 1 hour
14. Apply clear coat(s) – as many coats as desired
15. Final sand with 2000 to 2500 grit before buffing

Sounds simple. I will bookmark this when its time for me to paint

 

[B.C.]

Here is a video we just did about paint and material. This is part 1 of 2 the second one shoud edited tonight and I will try to remember to post it here also. If you don't see it here check the Buckethead Bash site under Fatburger build.

 

[B.C.]

Here is paint and material part 2 on top coat.