With all the added length in the cowl, it changes to look of the body, almost not like a 23 type, but it looks good anyway, and plenty of needed room... this is something I want to say regarding the steering in a new or used chassis...
The main trouble with a complete chassis KIT, (or a used chassis from someone else's project) is the fact that it does not FIT every Driver... A very necessary option for both comfort and safety... (when piloting a rocket, one needs to be comfortable)
Mainly the Steering wheel position and the pedal pads, (Brake and Fuel) let alone the drivers seating position.
So; here is my fix for this problem... Wait until you have the seating system finished, to mount the steering box to the frame, and column (correct length to steering shaft can now be determined) to the fire wall, this way it will be totally correct.! (no need for any U-joints..! I hate u-joints in the steering, if it can be avoided, at any cost, this is a worthwhile task) NOTE; most steering pitman arms also need to be lengthened, an inch or so, to get the turning radius short enough. (45 degree at spindle)
So, what does this really tell you? that all these components need to be custom made for the driver of the car... everything else is ginger bread
Now the pedals can be made/routed/bent to clear the steering with no problem, brake pedal pad on the left side of the column, where it should be, COMFORTABLE and much safer... NOTE; If the brake pedal needs to be bent a ways, it also needs to be longer, so either an addition is welded into the pedal, or a totally new pedal made after final testing to make sure it works perfectly... (correct leverage) Sorry for the long winded post, but may save some added time later... :wow:
