From the photo it appears that your pedal only has a couple of inches of travel. Get an adjustable spoon pedal, drop the pivot, and you will end up with a pedal arm almost 90 degrees from the cable arm. Give the cable a little slack and you will have no problems.
I went out to the garage to confirm the amount of travel after reading your post. It's actually worse than you think; total travel isn't even 2". It's not because of the pedal design though, it's the fact the pedal is being stopped at WOT much further out from the firewall than I realized. Sorry if I misled the discussion by my description of this earlier. It's very difficult to work in this area of the bucket, and I was judging the pedal-firewall distance at WOT by feel. This means I'm not making use of all the available distance the pedal can swing. I'm going to mount the throttle cable to the top hole of the carb lever before doing anything more. I don't know if that's a perfect match in terms of lever movement VS pedal swing, but it should gain enough so I can figure out if this really needs a new linkage system.
Thanks for mentioning the pedal travel in inches. That made me realize I hadn't actually quantified the amount of free play at the pedal. Shame on me.
OK, I've moved the throttle cable to the larger hole on the carb. Hopefully, the weather will permit a test drive tomorrow or Saturday. Meanwhile, I need to find a way to adjust the length of the throttle cable. I'm thinking about removing the crimped ferrule at the pedal and replacing it with something like the movable clamp below. Does anyone know a U.S. seller who has these in a size that's right for these small wire cables?
Just bought a pkg at Ace. I have not tried them yet.
The problem I have run into in the post is the cable fraying after cutting and trying to get it in the clamp. I have got to shorten my cable on my 58 truck and am trying to avoid spending $10 to $25 for a new universal adjustable cable.
Just bought a pkg at Ace. I have not tried them yet.
The problem I have run into in the post is the cable fraying after cutting and trying to get it in the clamp. I have got to shorten my cable on my 58 truck and am trying to avoid spending $10 to $25 for a new universal adjustable cable.
A stop collar is pretty simple to make .Try to find the setscrews w/a flat end [not the kind that dig into a shaft..... Cutting cable... Wrap the cable w/tape.. cut w/ cutoff wheel .. stops the cable from fraying.
dave
A stop collar is pretty simple to make .Try to find the setscrews w/a flat end [not the kind that dig into a shaft..... Cutting cable... Wrap the cable w/tape.. cut w/ cutoff wheel .. stops the cable from fraying.
dave
Good point about the setscrew. I was looking for these collars at McMaster-Carr, but they don't seem to have this type. What they do have are various types of shaft clamps. The collars at Ace might do the job, but if not, I'll probably see if I can make something like the clamp below from aluminum. The only trick will be finding the screws. Total diameter needs to be about 3/8", so the hardware would be really small.
Go to a hobby store that carries RC model hardware. Lots of different styles and sizes of collar stops. Worst case, you can find the screws you need to make one.
As I squat here in my man-cave in the lonely night, forgotten experiences come to me. I've been down this linkage trail several times.
It seems what you need is less lever arm initially at the carb (to make off-throttle transition smoother) and then increasing lever arm such that you achieve full throttle at full pedal. Maybe this would do it:
Move the connection to about point #1 on the existing arm. This gives less effective lever arm at first, then increasing with travel. You could experiment with other positions, or might even add to the existing arm such that you could locate the connection at point #2. The trick is to always get 90 degrees of arm travel (for full throttle movement) while getting increasing effective lever arm from idle to full.
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