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Novice Welding Tips

Mike

Well-Known Member
This tech article was provided by Handyman.

I don't want to get technical here, I hope to only offer some tips for the novice welder hoping to save a bunch of money by building their own frame or simply by welding their own brackets, motor mounts, etc. I hope these tips will be helpful to you.

You don't have to have lots of experience with a TIG welder to weld up a frame but you will need a stick welding machine or a MIG welder capable of burning .035" or larger wire to get a decent weld. I would not weld anything associated with the frame or suspension with anything smaller than .035" wire as you really won't build up enough heat to get proper penetration. I use my 110v .023" welder for the headlight posts, small brackets, radiator shroud, etc. I welded my entire frame and suspension brackets with a mid 70's Lincoln buzzbox and AC7018 rod. My welder is an AC only machine and that AC rod runs very different than the DC version. DC has a more consistent heat throughout the burn of the rod whereas the AC version runs hot towards the end of the rod. Welding with stick takes a lot more practice than wire and isn't nearly as versatile. You will need a lot less practice to put down a fairly nice weld with a MIG welder.

When it comes to your weld joints you should make sure they are clean and free of rust, dirt and oil. All joints will benefit if you put a small chamfer on the edges before welding but especially so for butt joints. On the kickup areas of my frame I put reenforcement plates on the outside and inside of the frame rails for extra strength. I believe it's ok to dress up your welds al little bit because what additional strength is there to be gained from a big ugly blob hanging from a bracket? You shouldn't grind them smooth though as you will lose much needed strength.

Don't let a lot of talk about being a certified weldor scare you away from trying to build your own frame. You do not need years of experience to do it. One thing I would like to say is that you should not be afraid to grind a weld out of a joint and start over. If you wonder what the weld is like under the surface go ahead and grind away. I have been welding in manufacturing shops for almost 27 years now and I have never been certified. I have welded on steel plate from 1/8" to 6" thick and everything in between. I can't tell you how many times I have had to cut, gouge or grind welds out and start over, it's just part of the deal. There's lots of reasons why you could get a bad weld. Dirt, grease or oil on metal, improper gun angle, too much stickout, or a lovely light gust of wind to blow your shielding gas away. Most fun.

Another thing that should be mentioned here is that you should not get into the habit of just dragging the wire along the weld joint. Whether you run stick or MIG wire you should move your weld puddle around a little bit in either "c" or "o" shapes. This will help to ensure you get good arc contact with both pieces of metal as you are welding.

Practice on some scraps to get the wire speed and voltage set right. You want to run it hot enough to almost burn through but not so hot as to make holes. Problem is you can't see what your weld is doing on the inside of your frame so practice on some pieces where you can look at the back side. So go ahead and fire up that welder and have some fun. Good luck to ya.
 
Good tips Mike. I would add a couple of things here if you don't mind.

As for the size wire to use, .035 SOLID WIRE is a great one to start with. Stay away from flux core wire! It's almost imposible to run a quality weld with it without shielding gas. I just spent 2 days removing welds on a frame done with a 110v, flux core wire. It looked like a piece of swiss cheese.

When you're running you bead, watch the puddle. Moving the puddle from one piece of base material to the other is what gives you your penitration. A straight pull or push might result in a great looking bead but I will guarentee you will have more meld on one side than the other. The "O" and "C" that Mike mentioned is one way to move the puddle. If I'm welding heavy stock I tend to use the old stick welding process known as whip and pause. With this method you create a "keyhole' at the root of your weld. As you bring the puddle forward you burn away the material causing a hole at the bottom of your chamfer and then move back up on the weld to build reinforcement. If done properly the back side will look as though it has a small weld on it. This works best on material 3/8" or thicker.

One more thing, If you're new to this, Find someone who isn't and get them to show you how they do it. This is the easiest way to flatten your learning curve.

Ron
 
You all forgot the most important thing, and I see this all the time. CLEAN the material before you weld it. You cannot weld mill scale, rust and dirt. Take your grinder and clean it all where you are going to weld. On wire size, both Miller and Lincoln say you can weld up to 3/16 with .023 wire. Just have have enough heat to make it work. Look at the welder you are going to use, there is a chart inside the cover that tells you what wire size to use for what thickness material. These companies won't steer you wrong, too much liability.
 
Sorry for me cleaning the joint is a given.

As for wire size, I use only .030. For most people just starting out .035 is good. You also have to take into account your welder size. Smaller amp welders will do better with smaller wire. You want to do most of your welding in the middle of your welders parameters.This will give you a longer duty cycle.

Ron
 
Sorry for me cleaning the joint is a given.

As for wire size, I use only .030. For most people just starting out .035 is good. You also have to take into account your welder size. Smaller amp welders will do better with smaller wire. You want to do most of your welding in the middle of your welders parameters.This will give you a longer duty cycle.

Ron
Yes I know you would, I consider you a pro, this article was for the novice welder.

We run two migs in the shop a small 180 Miller with .023 wire and bigger Lincoln that runs .030 wire. That way we don't have to change the spools, just use a different welder.
 
It can be done with flux core with practice. This is one of the harder welds to do vertical up with flux core .035.
tbucket2005.jpg


This is an excellent example of a fish plate for you novice welders really reinforces a joint.

54200880409PM80541.jpg


Another

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The holes in the center are key to keep the plate from flexing.
 
Here is a tip from one novice weldor to another. Practice Practice Practice.

For every weld I did on my bucket I did 3 or 4 on the bench. Then I cut them up, seen how the welds penetrated adjusted either the welder or the gap and did it all over again until I got it where it needed to be. Made me trust myself much more with the critical frame mounts.

Oh do not be afraid of buying or borrowing "How to" videos, there are some good websites out there as well. Before I even picked up my welder I picked up the "WMC" GMAW (MIG) video. Helped me get a better understanding of puddle control and what things should look like. Before this project it had been a good 20 years since I last used a welder.

Here are a couple of mine, these are the plates I used on my frame:
31%20Mar%202011%20001.JPG_595.jpg


31%20Mar%202011%20002.JPG_595.jpg
 
great thread guys. I just bought my first personal welder (took welding in trade school) and just started practicing. All tips are going to be tried. once I get comfortable I will be building a stand for my welder, etc. until I get proficient.
Thanks again for these tips!
 
Cleaning the weld sight with carb or brake cleaner produces hazardous gases. Rather than trying to convince you, please google and see how dangerous this is.
 

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