Your layout is really good, I like it! You have all the trap doors swing all correct. Keep a eye on your oil prressure, sometimes with the shallow designs, you'll have a tendency to uncover your pickup. Its good that you compartmentalized, that way you have a reservoir right there by the pump.
You might have to put a small kickup about 3/4 of a inch about 1 1/2inchesaway from the body of the pump....to keep oil trapped there where the intake is....if you notice a drop upon acceleration as the oil trys to climb the back of the pan.
Shouldn't have any problems, but the Hi-Volumn pumps launching at a redlight, that oil forms a wave that'll try to run past a flash pickup on the pump. Remember, Your gonna have a Qt. in your filter and a qt. to 1 1/2 qts in all your oil passages in your block. Even if your running 6 qts in a shallow pan....it'll try and scoot right past the pump.
In the AutoCross motors, we'll run a pan somewhat similar to your design.
We kept smoking bearings in one car, so we mounted a window in the side of the pan for a camera. Then used a UV dye in the oil motor, and we saw that a shallow flatbottom pan was a good design, but the sloshing tried to uncover the pump, between accell. and decell. would allow a small amount of air to enter the pump. Just enough to sometimes fluctuate the pressure.
It looks like you are doing a fine job. You might want to consider a horizontal dam on the rear wall, there by the pump pickup. It might give you fits getting it past the pickup, but it will also prevent oil from trying to climb that rear wall. Just out of simple curiosity, what radius is that top corner of the side pocket on? People will find it hard to believe, but there is a wee bit of power to be found there. And it looks like you might have come pretty darn close to getting it right.
You get a tip of the hat for investing the hours into this project. Most people would have welded a side pocket onto a stock pan core and driven on. It's good to see someone interested in putting something together that will work as nicely as this oil pan will.
I'm going to put a horizontal dam at the rear for that reason and also one at the front to keep it from climbing up the front of the pan under hard braking. Also getting smaller horizontal dams on the drivers side to keep it from climbing up in hard right turns.
As The Boss said....you can handily pick up 5 to 15 horses like that....The SBC crank scrapers and windage trays with the old 9 Qt deep sumps usually pick up about 15....on a street car you usually see 5 to 8 horses realistically. All those small parasitic losses add up to a lot....also adds to the coolness of your motoroil. The big alt. pulley adds about 3 to 5 Horses, waterpump a few, 1"-2" spacer under your carb 2-10 HP (jetted accordingly), yada, yada, yada....
After the bearings shed the oil and its dripping down into the pan, the more you keep it away from the crank, the cooler it is, it isn't aeriated.
I'm also installing an Ishihara-Johnson crank scraper. I'm looking for the small horsepower gains. As the Chevrolet drag racing horsepower guru Bill "Grumpy" Jenkins once said, "The best way to gain 25 horsepower is to look for 5 places to gain 5 horsepower".
Pan dividers with trap doors are now welded in place and the bungs for the drain plug as well as bungs for access holes to the pan rail bolts are now in place. Weld in a few more lateral dams and one deceleration dam and then I have to decide if I'm going to have it powder coated or cadmium irradiated.
Revised oil pump bottom cover, the bolts holding the cover on will be replaced with safety wired socket head cap screws before it gets installed on the motor. Also, the oil pressure bypass now has a shield to deflect oil away from the spinning crankshaft when it opens. I've got to install the pan on the motor that is in the car, check the clearance around the RH motor mount one more time, and close in the "notch" that was cut to clear the motor mount. Then its off to the powder coaters for a "gold anodized" looking powder coat. The oil pump parts I'm dropping off Friday along with some other brackets and fuel injection adapters to get cadium plated.
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ound clearance, no one builds one for sale, so built my own.
Also, the oil pressure bypass now has a shield to deflect oil away from the spinning crankshaft when it opens. I've got to install the pan on the motor that is in the car, check the clearance around the RH motor mount one more time, and close in the "notch" that was cut to clear the motor mount. Then its off to the powder coaters for a "gold anodized" looking powder coat. The oil pump parts I'm dropping off Friday along with some other brackets and fuel injection adapters to get cadium plated.
