Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Proportioning valve

thomas

Member
Gentlemen, I know I've asked this question before, but I would like to ask again. I have four wheel disc brakes with power booster on the master cylinder. What brakes should lock up first, rear or front? Right now I have the proportioning valve to the rear brakes. I've decided to revamp my brake lines, so before I complete this task I would like some advise on where I should put this valve. Rick, your advise would be well appreicated.

thomas:)
 
I have a question about a Proportioning valve ,I have disc drum set up without one and test drove it an everything seemed to work fine, the tech guy at at wilwood said I need a 2 lb valve for ft disc and a 10 lb valve on the rear and a Proportioning valve , I never got over 30 mph and brakes worked fine,oh and another thing on first test drive I went one block and ran out of gas,it was a little embaressing letting the neighbors see me push it back home
 
thomas said:
Gentlemen, I know I've asked this question before, but I would like to ask again. I have four wheel disc brakes with power booster on the master cylinder. What brakes should lock up first, rear or front? Right now I have the proportioning valve to the rear brakes. I've decided to revamp my brake lines, so before I complete this task I would like some advise on where I should put this valve. Rick, your advise would be well appreicated.

thomas:)

I'm not sure why you would need one (proportioning valve) if you have 4 wheel disk brakes, but I'm no expert... if you are a member of the NTBA, best brake guy that everyone goes to is FatPat... I'd ask him. Keep in mind you don't have to be a dues paying member of the NTBA to use the forum, but you do have to register.
 
I'm not 100 percent sure proportioning valves are really needed in most cases, even though all the common wisdom seems to say to use them if your m/c is under the floor. Supposedly it keeps the fluid from draining back.

I never knew about these valves when I built my '27 and the mid '60's m/c is under the floor, drove the car for 7 years with no problem whatsoever. When I built my '23 prop valves had become the recommended thing to do, so I put them in.........10 pounds front and rear (drum brakes all around)

One thing we want to address on my Sons T is the front discs are dragging, and I suspect the prop valve is to blame. There might be a second valve already in the m/c so that might be one valve too many. I am going to check that out shortly though because we are ready to install new Wilwood brakes and I don't want those dragging.

But like I said, I'm not totally sure it wouldn't work without any valve at all.

Don
 
You are confusing...

a proportioning valve with a residual valve. A 2 pound residual valve is used for disc brakes and a 10 pound residual is used for drum brakes. A proportioning valve is used to balance the braking power front to rear and is installed in the rear brake line. Fat Pat on the NTBA does not believe in their use but I have them installed in both of my street rods and they work great.
 
EX JUNK

Would you still need one if using disc on all four wheels?

thomas:)
 
A proportioning valve does as its name implies. By adjusting it to your vehicle's needs, it will apply the brakes proportionally, front to rear, so as not to cause your front wheels to lock up and not allow you to steer. So I would use one even in a four wheel disc set up on my car. Some may not agree in order to save some money but $42 for a good Wilwood unit is not that expensive. Especially if it could save your life by being able to steer clear of trouble while hard braking.
 
I wasn't awake when I did my post........I kept saying Proportioning Valve when I meant residual valve. :eek:

Next time I'll have my coffee before I start to type.

NEVERMIND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol::lol:

Don
 
So, if I'm reading things right. I would want the rear brakes to lock up before the front. Correct? If so, then the proportioning valve should be to the front brakes. I think.:confused:

thomas:)
 
thomas said:
So, if I'm reading things right. I would want the rear brakes to lock up before the front. Correct? If so, then the proportioning valve should be to the front brakes. I think.:confused:

thomas:)

Thomas go to page 30 in the speedway catalog and youll see a drawing of a brake system.Like i told you before this is the only way ive seen it done.i hope this helps again.
 
Thanks Rick, good to here from you again friend.

thomas:)
 
I didn't atart using them until a few years ago. After reading up on them, as EX_JUNK says, for the forty some bucks, I figured it was cheap insurance.

Ron
 
Mty brake setup is from Total P. They say it didn't require a proportioning valve because their rear lines and front lines are two different sizes. It seems to work because I have good brakes for a non-power brake setup.
 
thomas said:
So, if I'm reading things right. I would want the rear brakes to lock up before the front. Correct? If so, then the proportioning valve should be to the front brakes. I think.
Thomas, you absolutely do not want the rear brakes to lock up before the front. Adjustable proportioning valves are installed in the line to the rear brakes, to prevent this very instance from occurring.

The proportioning valve is designed to allow all four wheels to brake evenly, so if you have to clamp it down, the car will remain straight. And this is something that needs to be tested at 50-60 MPH, as well as at 20-30 MPH.
 
It is best tested...

initially on loose gravel. That way you can easily see if you are locking up all wheels at the same time. Then get out on the road, preferably a deserted one, and give it a real world test.
 
I put up a post on this elsewhere, but then found this thread so I'll ask again here. I am using front disk/rear drum with 67 Mustang master cylinder. Rear end came out of 79 Camero and I am using the proportioning valve that was in the Camero. Should I use a adjustable proportioning valve instead of the stock one? I don't have the car on the road yet.
Thanks,
Tex-T
 
I would use the adjustable one for a bog reason.The origanal one is designed to work with the camaro stuff not mix and match.Speedway has the one i use and it works great.So stop playing with your life and ditch the stock stuff.Hope this helps
 
Attached Images
1148d1230500244-brake-diagram-pics-pic02_brakefacts.jpg
1149d1230500278-brake-diagram-pics-pic03_brakefacts.jpg
1150d1230500325-brake-diagram-pics-pic04_brakefacts.gif
 
LumenAl said:
I'm not sure why you would need one (proportioning valve) if you have 4 wheel disk brakes, but I'm no expert... if you are a member of the NTBA, best brake guy that everyone goes to is FatPat... I'd ask him. Keep in mind you don't have to be a dues paying member of the NTBA to use the forum, but you do have to register.


I have followed Fatpats advice. I have 4 wheel disc on my car. No valves at all works like a charm. Fatpat was a factory man for Raybestos for a long time he knows his stuff.

I wish we could get him to chime in over here.
 
Im new to the sight (posted once) great info!! Hope to fire-up my T soonthought Id better get the brakes hooked up first though, cause once it runs I wont be able to control my self, Ill have to put it in gearso better have brakesha-ha

I have another proportion valve and residual valve question.
I have drum/drum brakes on my T-bucket. From my research I think I need 10 lb residual valves front & rear and a proportion valve on rear lines. Does this sound correct?



__________________________________________________________________________

Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the things you did. Get out there, go someplace, see something new, try something different!
 

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top