For those of you running big block chevys, what radiator are you using? I will be running a 454 with a mild cam and I'm looking at the old mustang radiator like the one Ron Pope sells. Do you guys think it will be enough to cool a big block?
It would seem if the mustang rad. is the one designed to cool a 289 , it would fall short w/a 454 ??
dave
With all the affordable alum. units available , why risk it ???
What 2O2F said. Get a nice size 3 row....and your favorite coolaid(antifreeze) and in your case, I'd run one of the coolant Coolers in your mix. You've got water wetter and a whole lotta others. Read up on them and choose the appropriate one. Your really truely not gonna need any, but, it doesn't hurt to have alot fighting the heat of a healthy Fat Motor....
It all boils down to the physics of things. Pump flow at yadayadayada rpms, block coolant passage size, waterpump inlet and outlet size....
All these things aren't arbitrarily picked out....they are that size for a reason. Pick the biggest that will fit your radiator shell or housing, bracket, whatever....
Don't let your motor suffer just because you want to save a few inches up at the radiator shell.
If your gonna run a blower later, or any big power enchancers, plan for that, also....think ahead. It'll save you headaches later down the road....
Thank you everyone for the advice. I will have to do some research. I plan to use the 5 inch fiberglass T shell that Speedway offers so there should be plenty of room to pick an appropriate radiator
We use a 2 row aluminum radiator with no issues. Also we offer the same T grill shell that speedway offers that they call extra deep! Even in the same white gel coat
I have always thought that it is the amount of presented surface area that determines the the amount of cooling a radiator will perform. Not the number of rows. or the amount of coolant in the system.
So how much more surface area is there available in the Sprit radiator for big blocks (with the radiator shell)? How is it rated? Who makes it?
The way I understand it , it's the number of tubes , number of fins per inch balanced against how much air passes through the rad. I'm sure it would take someone way smarter than me to figure it out. Just call a compny you're willing to trust & ask for thier recomendation...
dave
We use a company out of Indiana and I tell them what engine we or customer are using and they build it. I leave that up to the professionals and knock on wood we haven't had any issues with cooling. I have radiators all over the United States and haven't heard anything issues.
The good ole days of brass/copper radiators are pretty well gone....unless you have some really deep pockets. Fin design, cooling tube structure, etc, is diff. with alum. That being said, it is best to leave it to the pros. That way, if theres a screwup, you can hang that radiator around their neck, so-to-speak.
Yep, spend the moneys with the crowd you run with, they'll treat you right.
Theres alot to be said for loyality
Im running a blown BBC and am onto my third radiator. Current one works a treat, and I have an electric waterpump and an electric fan. A couple of observations from my experiences (tho Im in New Zealand, water still boils at the same temp as it does in the USA)
A bucket radiator is limited in size - height particularly. We lowered my bottom mounting point twice to fit in a taller radiator, so that the top of the surround sat right, when compared with the height of the cowl. Nothing looky as funky as a radiator that sits too high.
You may have the opportunity to run a deeper/thicker radiator, so you can maintain correct height, but need bigger to cool the engine and cant lower your radiator.
Look to fit a radiator shroud to pull the air thru the radiator
Fit a thermostat
You are better off to buy a decent radiator that is built to fit your car and built to cool your engine, than to mess around with a Chinese alloy radiator.
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