Radiator question

[Bennett]

I have a dumb question about radiators. Which radiator will cool an engine best? One without a transmission cooler or on with a cooler that is plugged or does it matter? Assume these two radiators are dimensionally the same size.
Thanks in advance for your comments.

 

[bobs66440]

I don't think it matters. It's more an issue of rows of tubing and cooling area. There will always be a debate about if aluminum or copper is best. I've had both work well in many applications. I prefer aluminum for my classic cars, but if I have a copper one that's working, I won't change it.

 

[railroad]

I cannot anwer your questions with facts, but I prefer a separate trans cooler, especially with a looser than stock converter. With a properly cooled and operating engine and trans, probably never a problem, but if one starts having an issue, I want to avoid affecting the other.

 

[Screaming Metal]

As far as cooling your motor, Theres really no difference, all things being the same. The main reason why the trans cooler is built into the radiator is so to heat the trans fluid up to the temp when things are cold, it put some heat into the trans fluid from the radiator.
Now, if you want to cool the trans. fluid, send your trans fluid to the radiator cooler first, then, go thru your aftermarket cooler. That will allow you to warm up the trans fluid fast when cold, then afterwards, the aftermarket cooler WILL keep the fluid actually cooler.
Now, for the folks that run automatic transmissions without a cooler in the radiator, you can run a aftermarket cooler with a inline thermostat, to allow the trans to get up to temp up faster.
Usually a min. of at least a 3 row is best for a strong street motor, for the big inch motors that are putting out some power, a 5 row is usually needed. Lower temp thermostat's and the new coolants usually will keep the high temps at bay.
Fan shrouds usually maximize the efficiency of belt driven fans and electric fans....
Copper radiators are best, they are strong, durable, and temp. transfer is pretty good. Alum. isn't as durable, and the strength isn't as strong since alum. is soft for the amount of thin cross-section available.
BUT, alum transfers the heat really well.....

 

[Bennett]

Thanks all for the feedback.

 

[Golly]

It's a cosmetic thing too. Easy to put a cooler and hoses under the car, than run them up the chassis and back to the rad. In a lightweight car like a T, you should be able to get away with just a cooler under the car , unless you're running some stout HP and a high stall converter.

 

[Screaming Metal]

What Golly said! Also, let me add. While I do condone using the radiator if possible to warm up the trans if running a mostly stock motor and trans, if theres any performance motors and or trans used, I suggest bypassing the stock cooler and going aftermarket cooler, because a slippery converter and a good hi-perf. motor, puts alot of heat into the fluid.
Remember, at a temp of 200 to 220 degrees and higher, your trans life is drastically cut. So it is best to keep it cool, there alot of different coolers, some even have built in fans and thermostats....so you can get as fancy as you want.

What I do on my cars is I'll hook the cooler lines in to out on the trans, when I start the motor to break it in, I'll get a piece of cardboard that will cover 1/3 of the radiator. I'll start the motor, set the timing, put the cardboard on the front of the radiator, check all the gauges, and let it run in with the break-in oil and let the motor temp get really warm. You need that heat to seat the rings....
Once broke in, I change the oil and filter, THEN I hook up the trans cooler....

 

[Bennett]

Thanks Guys...All good information to know.

 

[choppinczech]

This Deral cooler and fan is what I plan on using.

 

[Golly]

That'll be more than adequate. I have used them on full bodied street cars and racecars with a temp sender in a T fitting on the inlet port , to switch the fan on and off. Stops the trans from running too cold,

 

[Robert]

As far as cooling your motor, Theres really no difference, all things being the same. The main reason why the trans cooler is built into the radiator is so to heat the trans fluid up to the temp when things are cold, it put some heat into the trans fluid from the radiator.
Now, if you want to cool the trans. fluid, send your trans fluid to the radiator cooler first, then, go thru your aftermarket cooler. That will allow you to warm up the trans fluid fast when cold, then afterwards, the aftermarket cooler WILL keep the fluid actually cooler.
Now, for the folks that run automatic transmissions without a cooler in the radiator, you can run a aftermarket cooler with a inline thermostat, to allow the trans to get up to temp up faster.
Usually a min. of at least a 3 row is best for a strong street motor, for the big inch motors that are putting out some power, a 5 row is usually needed. Lower temp thermostat's and the new coolants usually will keep the high temps at bay.
Fan shrouds usually maximize the efficiency of belt driven fans and electric fans....
Copper radiators are best, they are strong, durable, and temp. transfer is pretty good. Alum. isn't as durable, and the strength isn't as strong since alum. is soft for the amount of thin cross-section available.
BUT, alum transfers the heat really well.....

So, you mean I'm gonna have problems in the wintertime with too cold of tranny fluid here in Texas since I rerouted all my tranny fluid through it's own cooler ?

 

[Screaming Metal]

So, you mean I'm gonna have problems in the wintertime with too cold of tranny fluid here in Texas since I rerouted all my tranny fluid through it's own cooler ?

NOPE....

 

[fordsbyjay]

The main reason why the trans cooler is built into the radiator is so to heat the trans fluid up to the temp when things are cold, it put some heat into the trans fluid from the radiator.

How come in my F350 after 1-2 minutes my transmission temperature is up to temperature and the engine as not warmed up at all?

 

[Golly]

There's a lot more coolant, than trans fluid.

 

[Screaming Metal]

How come in my F350 after 1-2 minutes my transmission temperature is up to temperature and the engine as not warmed up at all?

It takes a little while to get the powerstroke up to temp, with its almost 2 gallons of coolant, besides, your F350 weighs 7500+ lbs, depending on your model.....your moving alot of weight. They designed that trans to get to operating temp fast, since its a heavy-duty truck.
Can you image trying to pull a 12000 trailer, with a big heavy diesel truck, on a 20 degree morning in northern Minnesota, with a cold transmission?
Ole Bubba is gonna get on the road with the truck so he can be home by quitting time....Ford Engineers designed those trucks with a 100% Duty-Cycle....
Trying to compare the trans in your F350 and the one in your Bucket is like comparing a apple to a coconut....

 

[Screaming Metal]

Sorry, I made a mistake........a 2000 F350 takes well over 24 quarts of coolant...hell, look at that huge radiator!

 

[Screaming Metal]

And for the Diesel loving folks out there....
http://bangshift.com/general-news/v...sel-powered-t-bucket-burns-tires-in-all-gears

 

[Mike]

Did someone say 'diesel'?

If you listen closely, you can hear the thing shaking the tires.

In years gone by, Don Deane ran an Alcohol Dragster, with twin turbos on a Hemi. It was a riot to hear the car make single passes. The thing was always shaking the tires, and it sounded like 100 guys dribbling basketballs, when it happened.

Aaaaand, we're back to radiators...

 

[choppedtop]

I wonder what the rpm goes to on those engines. Around 3200 on a stock Detroit 12V53. I had one in my oil rig years ago. It was twice blown, and 2 turbos. It only drank about 500 gallons of diesel in 12 hours.
How many know that Detroit diesels (GMC) are 2 strokes?
Lee

 

[Mike]

I wonder what the rpm goes to on those engines.

I did some checking with somebody who knows somebody and the word came back they are twisting it up near 7,500 RPM. That is pretty doggone amazing. At 250 psi, or 17 bar. Wow!