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Rear axle identification

WMG

Member
Was told when I bought my bucket that it had an early model Chevy S Blazer rear end. Had to replace an axle bearing and when I pulled the axle found that the splines were worn about half way. Need to replace the axles, side gears and other components inside the diff. Crown and pinion do not show ay excess wear. Need to know what to look for to identify what model axle this is. Cannot find any numbers stamped on the housing or tags. Any suggestions what to look for to identify?
 
some chebbie axles have stamped numbers on the passenger side axle tube. I think they are on the top and about center, but check all over, if not there. I am sure a member will have a definite answer, if not check with Randy's Ring and Pinion.
 
What He said!
Also, you were told it was a Blazer, do you know what year? Anyway look at this chart to see what size you have, and with the # of splines on the axle, with any stamped #s on the pass side tube, they should be able to look things up for you.
http://www.differentials.com/technical-help/differential-identification
I can not over stress the fact that a engraver costs very little and will save many hours of head banging on the wall because the ID Tag is missing or you forgot after a few years.
I EITHER engrave this code onto the axle tube or the housing close to the axle tube. OR I stamp the number. Makes for easy identification. In alot of cases with me, I'll engrave the MFR'ers name, model #, product #, Serial #.....to avoid accidents like this.
Also I do the same for motors. I engrave the Make, size, bore, stroke, Mfg'er of crank, and the piston OS if any, plus my ticket #.....
I mark these #'s with bright metal marker paint....
 
What He said!
Also, you were told it was a Blazer, do you know what year? Anyway look at this chart to see what size you have, and with the # of splines on the axle, with any stamped #s on the pass side tube, they should be able to look things up for you.
http://www.differentials.com/technical-help/differential-identification
I can not over stress the fact that a engraver costs very little and will save many hours of head banging on the wall because the ID Tag is missing or you forgot after a few years.
I EITHER engrave this code onto the axle tube or the housing close to the axle tube. OR I stamp the number. Makes for easy identification. In alot of cases with me, I'll engrave the MFR'ers name, model #, product #, Serial #.....to avoid accidents like this.
Also I do the same for motors. I engrave the Make, size, bore, stroke, Mfg'er of crank, and the piston OS if any, plus my ticket #.....
I mark these #'s with bright metal marker paint....

Thanks for the info. Makes it bad when you buy something and the only information you have is word of mouth. Will definitely mark it if and when I find out what it is.
 
Is this a common problem with s10 rears in a bucket or is this a rare case? I am starting a build and planned on using an s10 rear but not if they are prone to breakage. I will have between 350 and 400 ponies.
 
I just had a thought. Could the wear on the spline be caused by a bent housing? Welding brackets on the axle tube can warp the snot out of them if not done properly. That would certainly cause undue wear on splines, bearings and so on. Might check straightness of the housing before attempting to repair.
 
I just had a thought. Could the wear on the spline be caused by a bent housing? Welding brackets on the axle tube can warp the snot out of them if not done properly. That would certainly cause undue wear on splines, bearings and so on. Might check straightness of the housing before attempting to repair.
It would have to have a healthy bend in it! Bearing wear, and alot of miles will look like alot of wear on the splines. If the part that just sticks into the male spline in the carrier is just shiney, thats nothing to worry about. If theres a impression in the metal, it's wear.
Alot of folks with the V6 and the V8 trucks hammer it pretty good, so there might be some wear and tear on that spline, if it had the 6 or 8. If it had the little Iron Duke 4, I'd look for bearing wear, maybe c-clip loose, causing axle to walk in and out.
On 10 Bolt Performance Setups, I do c-clip eliminators, if even a thought of a 1/4 mile run comes into mind....
 
I just had a thought. Could the wear on the spline be caused by a bent housing? Welding brackets on the axle tube can warp the snot out of them if not done properly. That would certainly cause undue wear on splines, bearings and so on. Might check straightness of the housing before attempting to repair.
The wear from a bent housing would be irregular, would it not? This is even wear on all splines on both axles and on both gears. Looks like a lot of miles possibly not changing the lube often enough. Know a couple other guys with S10 diffs and they do not have any problems. One even has a BBC with a blower for about 5 years and so far so good.
 

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