RPM Bodies
- Thread starter crickifur
- Start date
I've had my body on and off at least a dozen times, lol. We have family dinner night on Thursdays and all the kids come over, usually after dinner, I get them to come out to the garage and either put the body on the frame or take it off and put it back on the stand,lol. Kids are always teasing me to bolt it on and leave it on. I tell them I first need to wear out this set of bolts.
Let me first say I have never built a T but I would assemble everything raw with all accesories ,body,driveline before paint or powdercoat in case you need to ad a bracket or tab or need to do any tweeking, ive assembled /restored factory bikes that needed extra attention, nothing worse than painting than finding out you have to grind on it. { ask me how I know } Thanks Pat. {As I said im no expert in these cars but ive made lots of mistakes}
Yeah I have actually decided that it would be best to wait for the body.... The sad part is that I am not buying it til I get back to NY in June. Its nerve racking really. I think I am actually going to just bolt on the steering box mount (I REALLY need to get the frame length done so I can get it powdercoated here). If I dont have the coating done here in Phoenix, it will cost me 3x as much in upstate NY. That being said, just to make sure I get the FULL lenth of the frame right, I need 58" from kickup to the front of the firewall, how much should I have from the front of the firewall to the center of the front tube?? As I have said, it is a Total Performance frame, I just want to make sure everything is right so that I can get it coated in January. The goal is to have a FULL rolling chasis by June and this is the next step....
In your original post you said you DID NOT want to touch a drivetrain build until you get a rolling chassis. IMHO the drivetrain is the most important part of a chassis build.
I did not hear you say what engine and trans combo you will be using. TP chassis could come with any combo, S/B Chevy or B/B I let the engine/trans break line be within 1 inch of firewall. That gives you room for the distributor [HEI] and not interfere with firewall. Also lets you get to the tranny bolts to pull either engine or trannny separate as well as have more floor room with a smaller trans tunnel.
Ford engines are a little trickier, as the bellhousings are different in size and must be Mocked Up with what engine/trans combo you are/will be using. You will also lose a lot of foot room with Ford, Dodge, Crysler, Buick, Olds, or odd ball engine/trans combos. I think there is an article in TECH INFO about engine lengths and diminsions here or on another t-bucket site.
RPM said the body was 58" from the kickup to the firewall. Measure from kickup 58" on both sides of frame rails and mark where the firewall should be. The diferance in the lengths of the two bodies is what will need to be added to the frame. Call Wintech for the dimensions of thier body, I think it is the same as T/P. Hold steering box on frame in front of firewall mark and leave enough room for a wiggle u-joint to go from input shaft of steering box to steering shaft coming through [said] firewall at the desired angle . Steering angle is CRITICLE when mounting box to frame so seat height and width can be measured. It will be a guessing game without the body. Also engine height, length and placement in frame will affect steering box location as the box will be under the back header tube.
IMHO you would be better off putting things on hold until you get all the major parts on hand, as I know from experience, it will cost you more money to fix the mistakes after you realize things don't fit, and ruining a purty powder coat job. Most on here will tell you that have built their own bucket, that they pulled it apart a bunch of times [as many as 10] to get what is supposed to be right, look right, feel right, etc. BEFORE painting it!! Even buying a KIT does not guaranty anything will go right the first go round as most parts are FITTED for each bucket and all parts are not usually included. Most people build to a specific look or style, so eveything will be done on a [as come as you can get parts ] and each part fitted to the bucket.
I wish you well and don't mean to be condesending or anything, hope you will keep asking questions as there will be many more, I guaranty it.
Bruce
I did not hear you say what engine and trans combo you will be using. TP chassis could come with any combo, S/B Chevy or B/B I let the engine/trans break line be within 1 inch of firewall. That gives you room for the distributor [HEI] and not interfere with firewall. Also lets you get to the tranny bolts to pull either engine or trannny separate as well as have more floor room with a smaller trans tunnel.
Ford engines are a little trickier, as the bellhousings are different in size and must be Mocked Up with what engine/trans combo you are/will be using. You will also lose a lot of foot room with Ford, Dodge, Crysler, Buick, Olds, or odd ball engine/trans combos. I think there is an article in TECH INFO about engine lengths and diminsions here or on another t-bucket site.
RPM said the body was 58" from the kickup to the firewall. Measure from kickup 58" on both sides of frame rails and mark where the firewall should be. The diferance in the lengths of the two bodies is what will need to be added to the frame. Call Wintech for the dimensions of thier body, I think it is the same as T/P. Hold steering box on frame in front of firewall mark and leave enough room for a wiggle u-joint to go from input shaft of steering box to steering shaft coming through [said] firewall at the desired angle . Steering angle is CRITICLE when mounting box to frame so seat height and width can be measured. It will be a guessing game without the body. Also engine height, length and placement in frame will affect steering box location as the box will be under the back header tube.
IMHO you would be better off putting things on hold until you get all the major parts on hand, as I know from experience, it will cost you more money to fix the mistakes after you realize things don't fit, and ruining a purty powder coat job. Most on here will tell you that have built their own bucket, that they pulled it apart a bunch of times [as many as 10] to get what is supposed to be right, look right, feel right, etc. BEFORE painting it!! Even buying a KIT does not guaranty anything will go right the first go round as most parts are FITTED for each bucket and all parts are not usually included. Most people build to a specific look or style, so eveything will be done on a [as come as you can get parts ] and each part fitted to the bucket.
I wish you well and don't mean to be condesending or anything, hope you will keep asking questions as there will be many more, I guaranty it.
Bruce
You are in way too big of a hurry and probably headed for a financial disaster. This whole car needs to be mocked up to point of setting on all 4 wheels and tires that will but used in the final assembly. I am not trying to be mean or ugly, but you need to make sure absolutely every little part fits. I can tell you horror stories about having to go back and redo stuff, because it was not mocked up.
A guy bought a frame, not from me. Mocked everything except the steering box mount. He was using the old Mustang box, as it was pretty popular years ago. Held the box in place with a floor jack while he mocked all the steering and the column. Then he blew the car apart for powder coating the frame. He marked where that steering box bracket went. And when it came next day he welded it on. So then off to powder coat. Came back the prettiest cherry red ever. Assembles just about the whole car. Goes to install the steering box and guess what he got it on 90 degrees off. Not even enough material to even drill new holes. He ended up cutting it off and buying a new bracket and welding in on, then tried to touch up that area with red paint. It always stuck out like a sore thumb.
A guy bought a frame, not from me. Mocked everything except the steering box mount. He was using the old Mustang box, as it was pretty popular years ago. Held the box in place with a floor jack while he mocked all the steering and the column. Then he blew the car apart for powder coating the frame. He marked where that steering box bracket went. And when it came next day he welded it on. So then off to powder coat. Came back the prettiest cherry red ever. Assembles just about the whole car. Goes to install the steering box and guess what he got it on 90 degrees off. Not even enough material to even drill new holes. He ended up cutting it off and buying a new bracket and welding in on, then tried to touch up that area with red paint. It always stuck out like a sore thumb.
donsrods
Member
I have to agree, you are building the car backwards. Lots of first time builders make this mistake and it usually ends up with them giving up and taking up golf. Have ALL the major components on hand first and mock it up from there. Your enthusiasm to get moving on it will cost you money, time and extra work if you don't do it the right way.
Think of it as building a house. You wouldn't build the basement without knowing what the rest of the house was going to look like and have drawn plans. No one is trying to bust your chops or ruin your enthusiasm, we are just trying to save you from a lot of problems later on.
As for the powder coating costing 3X as much, that is hard to believe. I think you need to shop around for a better one in NY.
Don
Think of it as building a house. You wouldn't build the basement without knowing what the rest of the house was going to look like and have drawn plans. No one is trying to bust your chops or ruin your enthusiasm, we are just trying to save you from a lot of problems later on.
As for the powder coating costing 3X as much, that is hard to believe. I think you need to shop around for a better one in NY.
Don
lincolnuT
Well-Known Member
Just in the rebuild of a great running car (the Yelot, another thread on here) I have removed the Body at least 10 time already and I am still working on the gas tank, bed bottom, and several other things under the car. I also have a two post hoist that makes getting under the car much eaiser and I still have to remove the body for some Fiberglass work or other things I want to change.
I have to agree with the last few post I think you are heading in the wrong build sequence.......JMHO..we really want you to build this car but we are trying to help you 'Finish" it.......
Mike
I have to agree with the last few post I think you are heading in the wrong build sequence.......JMHO..we really want you to build this car but we are trying to help you 'Finish" it.......
Mike
WOW hahahaha I ask for a few dimensions and I get a whirlwind hahahaha... I havent and will not do anything yet. As for the steering box, I am not going to weld a bracket, I am planning on fabing a custom set up for that. I am just looking for a dimension for the frame using the 10" extended body. I am aware of the differences between the SB Ford/Chevy (different mounts, bell housings and the rear mounting distibutor on chevy/chrysler engines. I am planning on going with a 302/AOD combo. I have a fabricator here in the valley that does a couple Tbucket chasis a year and we were planning on using his mockup block, tranny for an initial mock up. My problem lays in the fact that this frame belonged to a moron that did EXACTLY what everyone is refering to AND THEN SOME. I wish that I had taken pictures before I fixed the hairbrain crap he did to the chasis. I am just trying to find out if he did any other stupid things to the frame before I go any farther. I have built a couple other rods in the past (67, 68 Mustang), both of which were put together with 302 engines. I know Im new to the T bucket scene, which is why I thank you all for chiming in. I honestly think that my questions have a few confused as to what I am trying to do (or I am extremely confused myself). Either way, I guess that I should probably wait for the frame changes til I do have the body as that seems to be a huge factor. I just originally figured that if I had the dimensions needed for the frame, I could get the extension done... IDK, I guess my simple build has turned into a bit of a disaster?? God I have to get back to NY hahahahahaha.. Thanks again all
SCCustomRides
Banned
So, How much is the body?
SCCustomRides
Banned
Nevermind, RPM is updating his site and I see the body listed, The price is Probably the best part of the body.
Me too, thhey are getting really popular Lee, you need to get royalties.Hmmm, I like those front shock mounts!
I really like that body, it is nice and long plenty of leg room. If it were me, I'd channel it over the rear kick up, which you could hide under the seat. It would make for a really clean profile IMHO. RPM really does some nice work.here is a shot of an RPM body on an RPM frame.
LMAO-- Naw Lee, you are a typical hotrodder, and like to help others out.
We will be listing them on the new web site.
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