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Safety issue

putz

Member
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Found this on ebay says brakes are new work great look where lines are run. Also what is this extending from the frame on top of axle tube? Has no front brakes Just looking at the safety aspect don't want to degrade somebodies work.JMO

http://cgi.ebay.com/...5b588ed1a#v4-43
 
Several things come to mind on this. Why is there only a bill of sale and not a title? Don't all states issue a title? There is no place on the back for a tag! I am guessing this car has just been built and it has never been driven. No title no tag. I could be all wrong, but I see so much questionable stuff on this car. The vin # is 12345 whats with that?
 
Several things come to mind on this. Why is there only a bill of sale and not a title? Don't all states issue a title? There is no place on the back for a tag! I am guessing this car has just been built and it has never been driven. No title no tag. I could be all wrong, but I see so much questionable stuff on this car.
I don't think an inspection would be in order quite yet.
 
To answer your question, (Also what is this extending from the frame on top of axle tube?), that is the panard bar. Perhaps it is only camera angle but it looks as though that frame extension for the wooden bed will hit that panard bar when the right rear suspension is compressed. As for the rear brake lines, they are indicative of the overall poor quality of the build. IMHO

Jim
 
Looked at it again and the drive shaft is 90 degrees out of timing.
I noticed the phasing of the driveshaft also,but I wondered if it was done on purpose,as Chester does his that way in the book. He doesn't explain why. I worked in a shop that built driveshafts (not my department) for many years,and I know they would never put one together that way.
 
To be honest, I never even thought about driveshaft phasing until Ron pointed it out. I did a quick google search today and it seems to be an issue with the lifted 4x4 guys. I do remember that when I got mine back from the driveshaft shop it had both ends aligned--which from what I gather is correct. I doubt on some of the 1'-2' long driveshafts I've seen on some T's it would be much of a problem, but maybe so?
 
When I built my first bucket in the 60's, I had the u joints out of phase. On its maiden voyage I could feel the lope from the drive shaft as it jerked down down the road. When I aligned them all was good. I thought the excessive lope from being out of phase was due to the drive shaft angle and the short shaft length.
 
How 'bout them 2x4 gas tank mounts. Looks too, um, "professional" to be only temporary mounts.
 
If the price is right, you do have a lot of good parts to re-arrange and make it your own... Short Drive shafts set like that as long as they are perfect 90 degrees from each other, work just fine, keep the joints from binding when working at steep angles... I always do any steering links like that, no problems for over 40 years (of very hard use) ... The very first thing that would go South would be those rear radius rods, that type of hook up (threaded stock) is no good for that setup, not near large enough, but they tend to break at the threads, especially the lower compression bar, the top would last just a bit longer...
 
It also appears that they are running a rear diff. out of a tri-5 chevy. I have the same axle in my car. I am curious as to how well it will hold up.
 
I have the same rear diff in mine and have never had a problem. I have applied it to many tests over the last 4 years.
 

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